Speakers w/o subwoofer?

[caustik_bt]

Hi all! I know I probably don't belong on this experienced audiophiles forum, but I figured I should ask the best.

Anyway, I've got a '96 Saturn SL2 which has the most panzycrap OEM speakers I've ever heard. I just ordered a new HU so I can play my iPod and CDs (Kenwood MP2035). I have also pretty much ruled out getting a sub anytime soon. So I'm looking at 6 3/4" speakers on a budget, so obviously not a component system.

My main concern beyond general quality, is that good cabin speakers are not designed to handle the entire job (ie: rely on a sub for the low end). What might be a good direction to look for quality speakers designed to reproduce the whole range on their own?

Specs to consider: HU has 22w RMS x4, max 50w. OEM speakers are 6 3/4" all around (2 front 2 rear). Rumor of some depth issues with the front speakers (some speakers apparently are really close to the other side of the door). Preferably less than $100 per pair, though I can bend a little.

Thanks so much in advance! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

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[rammin 10+ year member]

, http://www.cdtaudio.com/slim_neo_systems.htm (no depth issues here)

 

[caustik_bt]

I'm really not too worried about the depth, I just mentioned it to avoid any behemoth speaker suggestions.

 

[zSnb 10+ year member]

Look for the Phoenix Gold RSD 65CS. They are pretty new speakers and the price is about $130. Alot of the reviews state that the midbass drivers on those can play a full signal with no crossover and sound really good doing so. This may be your best option since you wont have a large sub to play the low freqencies. You will be able to hit most of your lower frequencies but by no means will these replace the output and loudness of a sub.

 

[acold7dusta 10+ year member]

why dont you want a sub? youre not going to get many speakers thatll play down past 70 hz with much authority in your price range...

if you dont want a sub in the trunk, you could always do a 3 way setup- 8" mid bass, 4" midrange, tweeter, and you could have decent extension down to 40 hz or lower depending on the install

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

i've never heard them, but blaupunkt makes some budget speakers that have MASSIVE voice coils...3" voice coils to be exact.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mUfcaFUqt2K/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52000&I=023VELO652

here they are on crutchfield

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Just pick up some Pioneer REV coaxials for now. Very nice coaxial speakers, affordable, easy to install, do nicely off of HU power, etc. A lot of Components out there don't have much for bass response because the companies tend to assume that people who buy comps also have subs.

 

[caustik_bt]

Look for the Phoenix Gold RSD 65CS. They are pretty new speakers and the price is about $130. Alot of the reviews state that the midbass drivers on those can play a full signal with no crossover and sound really good doing so. This may be your best option since you wont have a large sub to play the low freqencies. You will be able to hit most of your lower frequencies but by no means will these replace the output and loudness of a sub.

Wow, after looking them up, they look to be a very hot option. For the price of a coax of another brand, I can afford the components of the Phoenix Golds. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what I would have to do to place the tweeter in my car. Any quick and dirty reccomendations if I go the component route?

As for the sub, the ultimate reason I do not want to get a sub is expense. I want a sub, but it is far from reasonable right now. Maybe later in the summer I will shell out the cash, but certainly not now. It also would seem retardedly pointless to get a sub and keep the OEM speakers.

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

Just pick up some Pioneer REV coaxials for now. Very nice coaxial speakers, affordable, easy to install, do nicely off of HU power, etc. A lot of Components out there don't have much for bass response because the companies tend to assume that people who buy comps also have subs.

I sure hope you've actually had a set running off a headunit.

IMO, you need an amp and deadening. It is more important than splitting hairs on what speaker to buy.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

I sure hope you've actually had a set running off a headunit.
IMO, you need an amp and deadening. It is more important than splitting hairs on what speaker to buy.

Honestly dude, do you search out my responses and try to refute them? I personally have not run the REVs, but there are several reviews on them and members much more knowledgeable than I have suggested them for just this situation. From the looks of the Original Post, the kid does not want to get an amp. There are several people on here who run REVs off of HU power with minimal deadening that are perfectly happy.

It sure would be nice if you would suggest something instead of saying or implying that everyone else is wrong, I honestly don't think I've seen you post anything but negative comments toward other people's responses. I'm not trying to be a prick or anything, just pointing out what I see.

 

[zSnb 10+ year member]

Wow, after looking them up, they look to be a very hot option. For the price of a coax of another brand, I can afford the components of the Phoenix Golds. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what I would have to do to place the tweeter in my car. Any quick and dirty reccomendations if I go the component route?
As for the sub, the ultimate reason I do not want to get a sub is expense. I want a sub, but it is far from reasonable right now. Maybe later in the summer I will shell out the cash, but certainly not now. It also would seem retardedly pointless to get a sub and keep the OEM speakers.

all you need to do is find a flat surface relatively near the the midrange on your car door to drill a hole for the tweeter. Just use a hole saw and drop that b1tch in there.

Yea subs are expensive, but if you can save up $400 you can also get a Phoenix Gold RSD sub, box, and amp that sounds even nicer than alot of options costing in the $300 to $400 range for the sub alone. I hate to brand ***** but the RSD line right now is just a steal.

 

[caustik_bt]

Yea subs are expensive, but if you can save up $400 you can also get a Phoenix Gold RSD sub, box, and amp that sounds even nicer than alot of options costing in the $300 to $400 range for the sub alone. I hate to brand ***** but the RSD line right now is just a steal.

Where might I find said setup? Crutchfield is offering $300 for the amp and $130 for the sub alone, not to mention I would need cables and a box.

Or am I correct in getting the impression that Crutchfield is only where the n00bs shop? (Which of course what I am as far as car audio goes)

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

A lot of Components out there don't have much for bass response because the companies tend to assume that people who buy comps also have subs.

Care to prove that?

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

There are several people on here who run REVs off of HU power with minimal deadening that are perfectly happy.

And there are people out there that are perfectly happy with stock systems...doesn't make striving for more any less worthy of a goal //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

The install is the important thing here...dont expect ANY component system to perform to your expectations without some good sound deadening and an amplifier to boot...With your doors deadened You can get most components down into the 60s or lower, but not much below that...

 

[DaveDSMer 10+ year member]

ive done an install on a 95 Saturn SL and if the speaker mounting is the same for 96.. get ready for a fun time. I will give you some tips. I used a my big *** knife to cut the heads right off the plastic screws that hold them in because the heads just shread when you try to remove them. Another way is if you can twist the screw out just a enough to get some needle nose pliers on them you can just yank them out with the pliers. Also.. the speaker holes of a 6.5" speaker do NOT match up to the factory holes. They decided to make them about 1/4 inch further apart. So get ready to cut some rings from masonite or MDF to mount the new speakers. This is of course if you want to do it right. I have never tried to match up a 6.75" speaker to a Saturn so maybe.. just maybe it will match up to the holes.. never know. Also the rear grills take some a bit of muscle to pry off but the good news if when you get them off just use the new speaker grills you get and throw away the stock ones because the way that location is designed it will actually look nice with the aftermarket grills.