Speakers died for no reason?

[SGSeeker 10+ year member]

SO I've had some Aurum Cantus AC-180F1's (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-412) running for a year but somewhere in there, the car had a huge drivetrain conversion so it was off the road for awhile. Some time last year the speakers just quit working - the both of them. There is no resistance on either speaker so obviously the voice coil is messed up. Being 8 ohm, I had ~70 watts max going to each speaker and crossover was set to 125hz.

Anyone have any ideas on why the **** things decided to fry themselves?

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[edzy 10+ year member]

what amp?

 

[SGSeeker 10+ year member]

It was a PDX 2.150 (have a 4.150 in there now). Gain was set conservatively with only test tones and a multimeter - 20v with a 100hz test tone.

 

[atlbraves]

100hz test tone isnt that a lil low shouldnt it be around 1khz for speakers i was told

 

[ric flair 10+ year member]

test tones for speakers should be around 1k, why the hell did you use a 100 test tone?

 

[Pl8er 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like you set it up wrong.

They lasted a long time though. Have you checked the wiring to make sure nothing corroded and the wires are all good.

 

[SGSeeker 10+ year member]

I believe it was 100hz - it was a year and a half ago when I adjusted it. Maybe it was higher, who knows. I've got 50, 80, 100, 250, 500, and 1khz test tones on there. Wouldn't setting it up at a frequency too low cause something producing higher frequencies to be quieter? Anyways, the speakers were never much louder than the "tweeters" (3 1/2" 2-way speakers in the dash...) running off headunit power so I can't believe the gain was set over the top.

 

[SGSeeker 10+ year member]

Sounds like you set it up wrong.
They lasted a long time though. Have you checked the wiring to make sure nothing corroded and the wires are all good.

The wires were fine when I pulled the speakers out - other speakers fired up just fine. I haven't twisted them together to check the overall resistance but the ends were soldered onto the speakers rather than using quick disconnects. I solder everything I can when it comes to wiring.

 

[Pl8er 5,000+ posts]

The wires were fine when I pulled the speakers out - other speakers fired up just fine. I haven't twisted them together to check the overall resistance but the ends were soldered onto the speakers rather than using quick disconnects. I solder everything I can when it comes to wiring.

Any chance that the amp was messed with? Were the settings still the same?

I would reset the gains using 1kz as well (when you get new speakers) Also, set the gains using 100 and then at 1kz and mark the amp so you can see the difference.

 

[Pl8er 5,000+ posts]

Also, did you set the gains with a different equation when you got the new amp?

 

[SGSeeker 10+ year member]

Also, did you set the gains with a different equation when you got the new amp?

The new amp isn't powering anything yet and not setup (gotta swap my eclipse sub amp out with the 1.1000 tomorrow). The amp wasn't messed with - it takes me an hour just to get to it myself with where it's mounted. I haven't touched the knob on the 2.150 yet so I can still power it up and find what it was set to.

 

[SGSeeker 10+ year member]

Anyways, what's a good ~7" speaker in the $200-300 range? I'm looking for something that can do 100hz~2KHz. It's hard to search for information on independent drivers.

At least I only paid $100 for the AC's. Their suspension was too loose for my liking though.

 

[atlbraves]

if you have no resistance on the coils with a dmm then they are prob shot period

for 7" drivers look into cdt make some good speakers

 

[SGSeeker 10+ year member]

I'm thinking of either going with the Seas W18EX001 that still appear to do better than most others, or try to stuff W22EX001's in there and go with a 3 way setup in the front in the end (8", 4", 1"). These 8" 8ohm drivers seem like they'd enjoy receiving the power I've got to offer for the frontstage.

 

[Pl8er 5,000+ posts]

I have AA Poly Mids