Speaker Amp Not Turning On

[HardofWhoring]

Really not trying to be a dick on this one, but that doesn't make sense.

Correction, I fuse most HU remotes should have been the read, not that most are fused, just something I do. Roughly .5 amps to one, multiplied by the number of turn-ons needed.

Most amps are 100-300mv to turn on. Some head units will say how much to not exceed.
You're never going to blow that fuse if you fuse it that high.

This circuit would be a little different then something coming off the battery; What you would theoretically want is a hair under the max voltage on that circuit based on what the head unit can do, and then want wiring larger than that. Which just about any wire is. You don't risk damaging anything if something happens to the wire, because it's a switch wire with a load. The hardest part would be to fuse it just under the limits of that circuit.

If you get close to the head unit's limit, the smart thing is to just run a 30 amp relay, (even though it's only because of a hundred millivolts or so if running multiple amps). If you hook up lets say 3 amps, and the are each 200millivolts, and the head unit is 500mv max, then what will happen is it will draw 600mv, and you will fry the internal circuit in the head unit.

Just sayin.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Correction, I fuse most HU remotes should have been the read, not that most are fused, just something I do. Roughly .5 amps to one, multiplied by the number of turn-ons needed. With the advent of processors that have the ability to power most peripheral units, not so much a concern anymore. Little wires can overheat and melt too, just prudent in my book. I still can't figure out why you are having issues getting a determination though. I would start over. You can check the amps operability by using two hot leads, plain and simple. I use this technique using a simple 25 amp Pyramid power supply, you can do it from the main battery, then the 2nd one for $hit$ and giggle's.

(you know what is said, everything is $hit$ giggles until someone giggles and $hit$)

With the amp grounded, disconnected from the signal and the power. Input a basic 16 gauge lead connected to the main battery, then, take a separate lead also connected to the same main battery (splitting the one used at the end or using a 16 gauge speaker wire for the two leads works) and touch it with the 2nd lead or daisy chain it from a single lead, to the remote input on the amp. If it turns on and off when the 2nd hot lead is connected and removed from the remote input on the amp, then the amp is working as it should and the problem is with the remote lead. If that results in intermittent turn on and off, (it doesn't always turn it on) there is a problem with the amp (which would include a bad amplifier ground or remote turn on circuit). I don't see how it can be any other way. You have an amp or a hot/remote lead source issue, one or the other.

There's something that just still doesn't make sense in all of this, and the OP hasn't answered. They are saying they have a separate battery for the starter. Well, in every vehicle that exists, the crank circuit shunts all accessory circuits. Accessory circuits are shut off when cranking. There's zero reason to be setup like this.

OP is using a second battery to try to fix a problem that doesn't exist, because the ignition cylinder has fixed it long ago.


I think they have made this problem themselves. It isn't because they wired it to a second battery, it's because they made the second battery only work when there are no accessories going to work.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

There's something that just still doesn't make sense in all of this, and the OP hasn't answered. They are saying they have a separate battery for the starter. Well, in every vehicle that exists, the crank circuit shunts all accessory circuits. Accessory circuits are shut off when cranking. There's zero reason to be setup like this.

OP is using a second battery to try to fix a problem that doesn't exist, because the ignition cylinder has fixed it long ago.


I think they have made this problem themselves. It isn't because they wired it to a second battery, it's because they made the second battery only work when there are no accessories going to work.

Again with the nitpicking at stuff man, HU remote, antenna turn on leads can and do put out between 300, up to 900 millivolts a fuse relative to that output is fine and the part of the overall general troubleshooting message, not this configuration specific.

As for the rest, yeah, I don't get it. The OP needs to take everything out of the equation and just figure out where to troubleshoot. Amps are easy to isolate, either they turn on or they don't, unless something is loose inside and then it could be intermittent. Still, isolate one thing at a time using the primary battery. Trying to jump all around and figure this out, makes my brain hurt!

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

the relay wouldn't work when wired up.

You tried the external relay with no success? If so, how did you wire it?