Sound Dampening inside doors


itln.stln

Junior Member
Jul 4, 2010
9
0
Arizona
Is it worth the trouble of trying to install sound dampening inside the actual door? I've watched some videos and I've seen quite a few people install the dampener inside the door behind the speaker. I know SecondSkin has the speaker pads that you are supposed to install directly behind the speaker to help deflect the sound waves from bouncing back toward the speaker, and that's not what I'm talking about. Also if it is recommended to install dampener inside the door should I be concerned about the extra weight on the door hinge or will it not matter?

 

Umbra

Hobbyist & CA Tenderfoot
Sep 26, 2013
673
0
Long Island, NY
Is it worth the trouble of trying to install sound dampening inside the actual door? I've watched some videos and I've seen quite a few people install the dampener inside the door behind the speaker. I know SecondSkin has the speaker pads that you are supposed to install directly behind the speaker to help deflect the sound waves from bouncing back toward the speaker, and that's not what I'm talking about. Also if it is recommended to install dampener inside the door should I be concerned about the extra weight on the door hinge or will it not matter?
A well treated door can make a meh speaker sound great and a great speaker sound amazing. However, I just want to preface this by saying if you have stock, non amp'd speakers then treating your doors probably isn't worth the hassle.

I've never done just dampener, but I've done it in tangent with other treatments and the sound quality and midbass noticeably improved. I do dampener, insulating tiles for sound absorption, then close the access holes with sheet metal, then more tiles. Then I should do mass loaded vinyl with a decoupler, but I skimped. It's very labor intensive, but well worth it. If you're interested, check out KHA's build log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html.

Just installing dampener is certainly a move in the right direction and should theoretically improve midbass. The most efficient way to put the tiles in is with the bulk of it towards the center of the problem areas. SDS goes into this in detail. Even if you completely covered the door I think the hinges could take it. If you're doing several layers then it could become an issue.

 
OP
I

itln.stln

Junior Member
Jul 4, 2010
9
0
Arizona
Umbra, thanks for the quick reply. I'm definitely not going to be running stock speakers and they will be amped. I'm going to be running polk db5251 in front and db571 in the rear, all going through a kicker cx300.4. I'm also going to be running an old 12" Alpine Type X sub I had laying around through a Kicker cx600.1, I know it's underpowered but it will work for now. I'm planning on covering as much as I can and as much it makes sense with SecondSkin sound dampener materials to quiet down the car rattles and provide clean sound.

 

Umbra

Hobbyist & CA Tenderfoot
Sep 26, 2013
673
0
Long Island, NY
Umbra, thanks for the quick reply. I'm definitely not going to be running stock speakers and they will be amped. I'm going to be running polk db5251 in front and db571 in the rear, all going through a kicker cx300.4. I'm also going to be running an old 12" Alpine Type X sub I had laying around through a Kicker cx600.1, I know it's underpowered but it will work for now. I'm planning on covering as much as I can and as much it makes sense with SecondSkin sound dampener materials to quiet down the car rattles and provide clean sound.
It sounds like a solid system and I wish you luck with it. The dampener will help reduce panel resonance, but you'll most likely still have rattling. The rattling will come from two materials in close proximity to one another smacking together from the bass. You'll need to track these down and address them one by one. I've used closed cell, adhesive weatherstripping foam to great success. You can find it in hardware stores. It costs a few bucks and is typically used for thermal insulation around windows. Here's a link: Frost King E/O 3/4 in. x 7/16 in. x 10 ft. Black High-Density Rubber Foam Weatherstrip Tape-R734H - The Home Depot. You stick it between the pieces to keep them separate. If you have a trunk try putting some around the latch where it closes, it'll help keep the entire lid from jumping around.
 
OP
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itln.stln

Junior Member
Jul 4, 2010
9
0
Arizona
Umbra, thanks again for the response, you actually answered another question I had in regards to the tape to use to reduce rattles. I knew I came to the right place for audio information.

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,537
328
South Coast Metro, CA
You need absorption material to treat the rear wave. Something insulating and sound absorbent Like the material used in that build log umbra listed. Seriously check that out and actually read the theory and the resoning of why the acoustical engineer does the things he does in his install.

 

trumpet

Barry Schanz
Jan 3, 2011
6,942
17
Grafton, ND
Yes, you should be laying damping mat on the outer door skin. Cover as much as you can reach with one layer. Deflex pads or anything by another name that's claimed to bounce sound away from the speaker is not likely to help. The entire door will be bouncing sound, not just right behind the speaker.

I've used bagged fiberglass insulation hung inside the doors, and I later changed this to acoustic suspension ceiling tiles. I wasn't able to make before and after measurements but audibly it improved midbass and midrange clarity.

 

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