Some assistance appreciated.

[bigtimechips]

Hello all. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'm currently in a bit of a predicament. I purchased a Polk MM840 8" 4 ohm single voice coil subwoofer for my vehicle as a direct replacement to the factory supplied component per someone elses recommendations.

My vehicle sound system is run by a Kicker amplifier (77KICK30.AC) as an eight-channel 368W amplifier used mainly in Chrysler products. There is no data sheet for me to reference anywhere I've searched online.

Unfortunately, when having removed the stock 8" subwoofer from the supplied enclosure I discovered it is a dual voice coil sub. I'd like to wire up the single voice coil to my current system but have no way to verify the amplifiers output seeing as I can't locate a data sheet. Therefor, I have no idea how to hook up the single voice coil to run on a 4 ohm load. I do have a simple voltmeter in the garage, can it be of any use in determining this information?

Would someone kindly be able to instruct me as to how to wire up the subwoofer properly for 4 ohm? There are component speakers in the front of the vehicle, standard speakers in the rear, and the subwoofer in the trunk. I'm assuming the subwoofer is supplied a left and right channel from the amp? (I see two white/black connectors with wiring on each side of the original enclosure which connect to each voice coil of the stock subwoofer).

Is there any way to verify the ohm output of the stock amplifier wiring with the voltmeter? What's the ideal wiring setup for this situation?

I apologize for my ignorance. Your assistance is much appreciated!

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[BryceHinton]

Pictures would help immensely! But, If I am imagining this correctly, all you would need to do is connect one set of wires to your sub. Positive wire to positive lead, negative wire to negative lead. And leave the other 2 wires (for the stock subs extra voice coil) unconnected.. tape them up also so they do not touch each other or any metal in the car. The amp will see a 4 ohm load in this configuration.

Also, amplifiers do not output a resistance. They can only "see" a resistance from an external device, such as a speaker.

 

[Chromatic]

Hello all. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

My vehicle sound system is run by a Kicker amplifier (77KICK30.AC) as an eight-channel 368W amplifier used mainly in Chrysler products. There is no data sheet for me to reference anywhere I've searched online.

This may not be exact.. but it still may help you.

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/02KX300_400_500_800_2AmpManual.pdf

Maybe it will help. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[bbeljefe]

In all likelihood the factory sub was a dual 4Ω sub that presented a 2Ω load to the amp. If you still have it and both coils aren't burnt (I would guess you're replacing it because of a rotten surround) you can check the resistance of the coils with your meter. You only need to check one and it should read ~3.5-4.2Ω if it is a 4Ω coil. However, you might get a wildly fluctuating reading, depending on whether the coil was damaged from the rotted surround allowing it to rub inside the motor.

You can install the Polk sub as instructed above and it will work fine but if the old sub was indeed a dual 4, the new sub will not be as loud due to the higher impedance of the coil.