Smoked solox18 grey come colored sub

[Dirkdigla666]

Anyone know if I can get cone off of the this solox 18in with ability to re-use it?
Used it for a week with zx2500 and bad tune caused it to billow out smoke and amp now don't work either but told likely needs new RCA jacks as it plays crackle noises and such.
Trying to replace coil with upgraded one but of course finding a recone is nearly impossible.
Thinking I can heat basket with heat gun and try to use plastic flat tools to workout off but my luck it will get damaged
.

Click to read more...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I would call Kicker to see if they can repair it or have a kit for it. I used to have that same sub in 10s DVC2 ohm subs. I really liked those.

 

[Dirkdigla666]

I would call Kicker to see if they can repair it or have a kit for it. I used to have that same sub in 10s DVC2 ohm subs. I really liked those.

It's non existent.gonna try to heat the basket and finagle it off to change the coil

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

It's non existent.gonna try to heat the basket and finagle it off to change the coil

I used a butane torch on a 10" sub. At that time I did not care if the paint messed up on it for it was a practice sub. Since the surround is rubber, it worked great. It was not a quick heat and pull. I had to go slow to and fro while pulling on the surround.

 

[Deiimos]

I would not use a heat gun for this, the heat is not put where you need it.

The mini torch method works good. I had a Power Probe brand butane soldering kit, and I'd take the head off of it and use it as a mini torch for this exact purpose, at any rate, likely works about the same as the one shown above.

I've taken apart many speakers / subs over the years. Heat the basket only from underneath, flame to metal only, go slow, but keep the short flame moving as to not burn anything, and use a flat head screwdriver to carefully lift up the surround after heating it (this will take some trial and error on how hot to get it). Same for the spider. Remove any magnet boots or trim / gaskets that are too close to flame, and again heat the frame only directly under the surround / spider, do a few inches at a time. This works with most OEM adhesive, might not for the rock hard super glue if someone used that, but it's less common in speaker gluing.

I've done foam and rubber surrounds with no issues. You can burn either if you try to go to fast and not careful.

Good luck with the project.

Last couple I took apart were a Kove 15 and an old 12, but have done quite a few over the years.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Last couple I took apart were a Kove 15 and an old 12, but have done quite a few over the years

Did you use the flame on this ring as well? I hav a 12" Armageddon given to me by a member here but UPS broke it and told me to kick rocks. I have the new frame but do not want to destroy any of the soft parts.

 

[Deiimos]

Did you use the flame on this ring as well? I hav a 12" Armageddon given to me by a member here but UPS broke it and told me to kick rocks. I have the new frame but do not want to destroy any of the soft parts.

I have never tried to separate spiders in a spider pack if that is what you are referring to, but, the entire spider pack will lift up fine though if you're careful heating the basket under the spider landing, the plastic spacer ring did not melt, the whole pack lifted as seen in the photo above. Pics of said subs shown in my thread below and where I grabbed the photos from. Sorry if you were referring to something else. The smallish flat head screwdriver is used to gently slide under the surround / spider once hot enough to slowly and gently scrape / lift. Practicing on blown cheapo subs is always a good idea.

Which coil? Pondering old sub rebuild.

So I’m considering rebuilding an old sub that has been blown for some years now. Looks like I "should" be able to squeeze in an 8 layer flat wound aluminum, or I can go with a 4 layer round copper wound. Any opinions on either coil? That's the basic question. Just using it for basic everyday...

www.caraudio.com

And this is the torch I use. It is a soldering kit actually, but I would unscrew the head off and just use the flame, was a pretty controlled flame that worked well.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Sorry if you were referring to something else. T

No, you nailed it. Thanks. On my mini torch I had to keep it depressed. I imagine your's has an on switch. That would make a big difference.

 

[Deiimos]

Yeah this torch stays on until you shut it off and has a slider to adjust the flame higher or lower, not much range, but handy and the right size flame for this sort of thing.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Even if you manage to get this cone off intact, those old Solo X use an oddball 3.5" coil that will very probably be difficult or impossible to source something to fit if you're not going to try to buy a pile of them. I would not bother trying to restore 18" Solo X. 12" version used a more common sized coil that would be much easier to do something with the motor.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

oddball 3.5" coil

The 13w7 uses a 3.5" dual vc as well. It may fit.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

The 13w7 uses a 3.5" dual vc as well. It may fit.

Not like JL is selling them and the odds of any of the few 3.5" coils that are available loose would fit are way against. We measure coil OD and ID in thousandths of an inch.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Not like JL is selling them and the odds of any of the few 3.5" coils that are available loose would fit are way against. We measure coil OD and ID in thousandths of an inch.

I know exactly what you mean. I just rebuilt a 10w3v3 and the OEM vc ID is 39mm. The only one that fit ID and former height was 38.5mm ID and 60mm high. I could only fit a sheet of paper as the coil center spacer! I got it on the second try and it is working great.

That is how I found those JL 13w7 coils on ebay. Hours of browsing.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

For those interested in rebuilding a 10w3v3, these are the OEM voice coil specifications.

The Outer Diameter is not of the voice coil but of the hole on the frame.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I could only fit a sheet of paper as the coil center spacer!

That's getting to the point where you may have rubbing/failure if the coil expands slightly from heat or the coil rocks a bit. Probably not a thing in low power sub like the W3 but on bigger stuff I would expect something that tight to fail. You'd normally want to be able to stuff a playing card or two between the former and pole and coil windings and top plate, and most of the big subs everybody is using these days have quite a bit more wiggle room.