single JL 13TW5 subwoofer?

[axeten 10+ year member]

Hey guys,

Havent been in the car audio scene for about 4 years now. Just bought a new dual cab hilux (same as your Tacoma in America) and starting to get the bits i need for the stereo now.

I have bought:

- Alpine IXA-W404E head unit

- Alpine Type X reference 6.5" components

- 2.5 farrad capacitor

- Cabling and termials

Still have to buy my Sub and mono amp and also do all the soundproofing before installing everything. I also want to get the Alpine Type X pro's for the front and move the reference splits to the rear doors when i have some extra cash after its all done.

I done some searching but the JL 13TW5 thread is from 2008 that i found.

Just wondering if this is still a good way to go for a shallow sub. I will only be running one. Also, will the Alpine PDX-M6 (600 watt RMS) amp not be too much for a single JL sub? I see their power handling is only around 325W (optimal) but can handle up to 600W before the warranty is void (which i'm not too worried about anyway).

Are the JL amps like their 500W RMS one (cant remember the model) better than the alpine? I only looked at the alpine i have their four channel and it would match getting their mono, but if JL ones are a lot better then i dont mind having two different.

I have done some searching so i apologise if this ios all answered somewhere else.

Thanks

Alex

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[genxx 10+ year member]

I have been running a 13TW5 in my truck for almost a year. IMO yes they are still the best thin mount sub on the market. I run 500w to mine and it would be fine with even 800w daily. I know someone that is running two with 1000w on each since they came out with no issues. So your 600w will be fine. I would recommend 500-600w on one if you want to get decent output, they like some power on them.

On an amp there has become many all in one amp solutions. For what you are running that is they way I would be headed.

Here are some that come to mind:

JL HD900/5

JL XD700/5

Alpine PDX5

Audison 5.1k

ARC KS900.6

Zapco 5100.7

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

First of all return that capacitor. They're worthless at best (search the forum for lengthy discussion).

JL shallow mount is probably as good or better than anything. JL is known to conservatively rate their subs so it should hold more than 350W if you're careful.

I'd suggest the Zed Audio Leviathan as a good 6 channel amp to run things. Ton of power and flexibility, built in the USA, and you won't find better customer service anywhere.

 

[axeten 10+ year member]

hmmm. I'll have to read up about the caps. Though i have always got rid of my light dimming problems when running them.

Not looking for a six or five channel as i already have the 4 channel alpine to run my front/rear splits. So just need a mono for the sub. It seems everyone is running 500-600 into these subs so i think i'll get the Alpine PDX-M6 (600W RMS) to match the look of my 4ch

 

[axeten 10+ year member]

well, read more about Caps. Seems i am selling mine and upgrading the battery. Though being a big 4WD battery it may be ok. I only just thought about it and realised my brother doesnt run any caps either with 9 amps and 6 10's.... but he has dual Odessey batteries. I'll have to look into what batteries i can get in Australia for a reasonable price.

 

[cjj2d 10+ year member]

also check out Stereo Integrity's BM MKIII.....

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

i prefer si bm mkIII much better sub imho

Stereo Integrity | FAQ SI BM MKIII

call up and order one, also prob half the pric eon what your paying

 

[axeten 10+ year member]

i prefer si bm mkIII much better sub imho
Stereo Integrity | FAQ SI BM MKIII

call up and order one, also prob half the pric eon what your paying

Yeah the BM's look good. Have you had experience with these and the JL though. From the guys i've talked to that have heard both, they say the JL is better. And i have read of two BM's in the last week that the cone part has come unstuck and needed glueing. The BM is $240 but they want $150 to ship it to me, so i figured for an extra $120 i'd go the JL.

If i get some extra money from somewhere, i will get a BM too and put both in they're recommended enclosures and find out which one is best. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[benzmansl65amg 10+ year member]

I am a big fan of the JL slim sub. I have never used the SI sub but they are supposed to be good. It will take 650 all day thats what I run in one of my friends truck. It gets surprisingly loud.

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

SI makes a great product. Only issue I have heard from the comp. guys is getting them to hit the lower notes. They seem to roll off a little early down low.

Also axeten is in Australia so not sure what shipping, custom fees, tax ect. would hit him price wise on the SI. Also if he needed to get it warrantied IIRC he would have to ship it back to the US to SI for warranty. So things to consider befor saying it is cheaper than what he could get a JL for locally in Australia.

have heard the SI in several installs and to me the JL is still hands down the best Shallow mount sub curretly being produced.

Axeten already was checking while I was typing and we where having the same thought on the price.

 

[axeten 10+ year member]

Yeah JL it is. I'm still buying all my gear from the US but where i'm buying the JL from they only want $89 to ship it to me. Australia prices for the JL are $799 to $899 without postage so its pretty bad that i have to get it from the other side of the world. Thats just the way it is though.

Thanks for your input guys. I'll let you know how the install goes and how it all sounds. I'll try and get the db meter from our shop and get some figures for the slim girl

 

[Electrodynamic 10+ year member]

Yeah the BM's look good. Have you had experience with these and the JL though. From the guys i've talked to that have heard both, they say the JL is better. And i have read of two BM's in the last week that the cone part has come unstuck and needed glueing. The BM is $240 but they want $150 to ship it to me, so i figured for an extra $120 i'd go the JL. If i get some extra money from somewhere, i will get a BM too and put both in they're recommended enclosures and find out which one is best. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

The cones do not simply "come apart and need glueing" for no reason. Secondly, they don't come apart due to glue issues as our glue holds far higher temperatures than a BM mkIII should ever see (even past the 1500 watt area). The two failures you've read about aren't too shabby considering the thrashing those drivers went through and that it is still less than a 2% failure rate...and even then it is due to user abuse and not the fault of the driver or how it was assembled. The BM mkIII was not designed to be a "thrash on it for hours without care and it should still hold together" subwoofer. It has its limits.

 

[Electrodynamic 10+ year member]

SI makes a great product. Only issue I have heard from the comp. guys is getting them to hit the lower notes. They seem to roll off a little early down low.

What competitors do you know that are running BM mkIII subwoofers and having problems with them? Zach Lefler in CA and Ryan Slade in GA did very well with them in MECA this year (Zach took the CA state Modified title). Also Scott Buwalda's Canadian distributor has a pair of BM mkIII's in his Hybrid Audio demo vehicle with no complaints at all. As to them rolling off a little early, the F3 outside of a vehicle is 37 Hz when installed in a 0.5 ft^3 sealed enclosure. Inside of a vehicle with cabin gain the F3 is flat to, or below, 20 Hz which I don't see as an issue as far as low frequency extension is concerned.

But yes, he would have to ship it back to us here in NC if he ever had any problems out of the driver so that is something to consider as you're making your decision. That, and the fact that we are sold out of BM mkIII's already.