Single capable amp needed to push 2 12" bone crushers.

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

Frieken oath mate!! I'm buzzing eh.... Can't wait to see what it's gona sound like when I swap out HU an remove that equaliser. After the audio is done... I'm moving on to new wheels bigger turbo an upgrade alternator... Oh yeah my lights arnt dimming anymore... Didn't see that coming. It's a plus.
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Better amps are more efficient, likely why less or no dimming now.

 

[Wellyboy]

Great to hear that the amp worked out... once you re-do the box it should sound VERY different... in a good way!.. the design I provided is tuned to 32 hz or so and is vented to allow you to use your new power better... let us know how it turns out... I bet it sounds really good with a new H/U, box and amp...

I will make videos an post
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[Wellyboy]

Noises are becoming constant little by little.

 

[Wellyboy]

Can't call it honely. But the only thing i don't like about my deck is the horrid glare(need tint) and the dimmer only works well when you use ndroid auto.It also takes 30 seconds to a minute to load al tge info on the tracks. In this time frame you are unable to select the folder list or the search function until it completely loads but once it does completely loads it's much faster than the other units I've played with.

I'd say save up a tad more and get at least the 430 you know you getting a good quality unit.

7" or 6.2"?
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[Wellyboy]

That jvc is 24bit DAC.

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[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

7" or 6.2"?
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I think its a 6.8"

 

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That jvc is 24bit DAC.
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Yea. I think only the high res units are 32..

 

[Wellyboy]

I'm starting the build today.. But for when I seal the box, what kind of silicone do you guys use to seal the box. I'm not happy with what I used on my 1st build.

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[Bassman999 10+ year member]

I'm starting the build today.. But for when I seal the box, what kind of silicone do you guys use to seal the box. I'm not happy with what I used on my 1st build.
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I usually just use wood glue, but silicone or latex caulking or even fiberglass resin.

 

[Wellyboy]

I use resin to smooth out the inside of the box, not really to seal.

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---------- Post added at 02:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:58 AM ----------

 

I usually just use wood glue, but silicone or latex caulking or even fiberglass resin.

I see the American brand "gorilla wood glue" is that good?
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[Bassman999 10+ year member]

I use resin to smooth out the inside of the box, not really to seal.
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---------- Post added at 02:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:58 AM ----------

 

I see the American brand "gorilla wood glue" is that good?

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No its like a foam that swells, its good for gluing boards but not sealing

 

[Wellyboy]

May I try to help?.. those parameters you posted just would NOT work for me... maybe it's me, maybe not... anyways this design in Torres should be close to what you need... not perfect and I'm hanging out there on this one due to not being able to model them first... Please slow down and study how these assembly drawings show the sub/port configuration and assembly... Build it just like the pictures as this sub/port configuration is how it is done in Torres... the only 45 degree beveled piece you'll probably need is at the bend in the port.. the round dowels shown should be added... don't worry about displacement... It'll be minimal... ask away if something does not make sense... please!
BTW... it is ALL 3/4" single baffle construction... it's sufficient in your case...

This will most likely sound a lot better than the box above you built... I'd start over if I was you... You can try this one if you want... Once installed in the vehicle, leave around 4" clearance for the port to breathe and face the subs/port to the rear... Just my humble opinion...

Use dowels for bracing...

This is EXACTLY how the pieces listed should fit together in the illustration below... port wall behind the baffle... a 45 in the port bend... the other 45's are optional and not accounted for in the volume... not that they'd make much difference anyways... the end wall on the port side will need to be cut .75" longer than the one on the other side of the box... look and you'll see this as well... use the "Physical port length" to tell you how long to cut your port pieces and make sure it is spaced 4" from the sides of the box evenly throughout it's length... there should be 4" of space from the port bend to the 45 as well... If I'm missing something it is because I've been typing for so long...

If you decide to start over and have any questions... Don't hesitate to ask...

Good Luck!

Shredder, how or what did u use to round your edges? I was thinking plainer an sand paper..
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[Bassman999 10+ year member]

Shredder, how or what did u use to round your edges? I was thinking plainer an sand paper..
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I usually round edges with just sandpaper and my hands, but a router with a round-over bit is useful also, and have used that a few times too.

 

[Wellyboy]

I usually round edges with just sandpaper and my hands, but a router with a round-over bit is useful also, and have used that a few times too.

I'm actually going to buy a router bit today. I'll add that to my list.
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[Bassman999 10+ year member]

I'm actually going to buy a router bit today. I'll add that to my list.
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The other bit I like is the flush trim bit for the times when my wood working isnt perfect...almost always lol.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Shredder, how or what did u use to round your edges? I was thinking plainer an sand paper..
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I did not round my edges... I barely sanded the port entry and exit just enough to take away the sharp edges on my box...