Several Questions, help appreciated

dtavano
10+ year member

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Ok ladies and gents, I have got several questions for ya.

Car: Jeep Cherokee 01' (Note: not the grand cherokee)

HU: Alpine 9852

Comp amp: HU

Comps: stock 5.25

Sub Amp: JL 500/1

Subs: 2 JL12w3v3 @ 28Hz(box built to spec)

Obviously I have a lot stuff to do, but I don't have the money since I tend to spend most of it on another type of audio "enhancer."

1.) The one thing that bothers me the most and I've had the most trouble getting an answer about is the **** "boost" knob on my JL 500/1. I have my input sensitivity set to 500W RMS (it is a regulated PS.) Now, I have received emails from 2 different JL Audio Tech people but I got two very different answers. The first guy said that he suggested turning the boost(is this gain?) halfway up, that's like +7 db or something around there. The other guy said the boost control is only for adjusting the amp for low volume situations. So... I'm thoroughly confused now. With the boost off it really isn't that loud when played at the volume on my HU that I tuned the system to. If I'm not supposed to use the boost control than I'm going to have to get another amp for the subs(which I will eventually do anyway considering the subs can handle quite a bit more than the 500W.) Or, I can set my HU to volumes above the level it's tuned at? I don't feel like blowing these subs because I managed to blow a sub before I really was too informed. BUT, as a side note I had 2 10w0s running off of the 500/1 and never tuned the input sensitivity(probably was around 500W but I don't really know) and had the boost usually set to a bit over 3/4 (+9db perhaps) and it took over a month for one of them to die on me, keep in mind these subs are rated at 125W RMS(but JL stuff seems to be a bit underrated.)

2.) As stated above I have a Jeep Cherokee 01' the ones that look kinda boxy, note this is not a grand cherokee. The OEM speaker spots are for 5 1/4" speakers and I plan on getting 6.5" components in the front and remove the rears. I have yet to take off the door panels so if anyone has or has seen a car like this do you think I could install these speakers, say, by myself in my garage? I do not have a router or dremmel but I do have a wizard(lol) rotary tool and it does seem pretty good at cutting quite a bit of stuff(accuracy is a different story though.) I also have your standard everyday tools. I really don't care too much about the aesthetics of the car considering it's generally messy anyways so the installation won't need to look good, just would need to function properly. Of course I could probably answer this question by myself by taking a panel off, but if someone knows offhand and/or has some important knowledge at their disposal or whatnot it would be appreciated. I'm lazy, yes I know... if you took a look at my install you'd think I'm the laziest person ever.

3.) Subs distance from rear hatch: How much clearance, if any other than where the sub excursus(lol @ that word) is important between subs and rear hatch. Typically what would be the optimal distance? I ask because right now I have them probably about a foot and a half away from my hatch, and I have the ability to fold down my back seat to get them further away. Speaking of folding down my backseat would that be beneficial to the acoustics of my car?

4.) Component amp/power/volume: Right now I'm running off of my HU power(17W RMS x 4(well I have rear speakers faded to 1/3 of its volume)) The volume of it right now could be a little bit louder to suit my taste when playing at a non-distorted volume level but I don't need a "huge" increase in my speaker volume. I'm going to get a pair of 6.5" components but I'm not sure what I need power-wise to reach my goals. I was thinking about getting an amp rated @ 60 W RMS per channel(2.) and matching it with some comps that are rated around 60W. What kind of decibel gain can I expect from this scenario over my current HU -> stock speakers situation? How will this match up with the 500W going to my subs? You can assume that I will deaden my door panels.

5.) My rear speakers are located on the roof of the car in the back and not in a door. When I remove these speakers what should I do with the hole in the roof? Should it just be left as it is, or should I close it off somehow?

6.) Wiring: When I purchase my component amp, if I chose to get around 150W RMS amp can I just splice the 8 gauge wire going to my sub amp? If I can could I get away with splicing in 12 gauge wire since I only need a couple feet? Can I splice the ground wire to the sub ground wire or does it need a dedicated ground wire to not introduce noise or whatever?

I know I'm probably forgetting a bunch of stuff but I believe this is more than enough questions for one post. Sorry about that! Any help is appreciated.

EDIT: Sorry, forgot to throw in my anecdote! Awhile back I stumbled upon a return from a google search for some car audio something or whatever. On some car audio forum some dude asked "What is the best thing to add to my system? [blah blah so on and so forth.]" The first reply was "THC is the best thing to add to your system." I thought it was a funny joke, but actually seems like a very valid response. The whole point of car audio or any audio in general is to make it sound good TO YOU(unless you do it for competition.) so realistically the dude gave a **** good answer! Hehe, at least in my opinion. Anyways...

 
#6 - No. Go with a 4 gauge run to the amps and then use a distribution block to split it into two runs of 4 or 8 gauge. Use a ground distro too to avoid possible noise too.

 
#6 - No. Go with a 4 gauge run to the amps and then use a distribution block to split it into two runs of 4 or 8 gauge. Use a ground distro too to avoid possible noise too.
If I were to get a new 1000W amp to replace the 500/1 and a component amp supplying 250W would the 4 gauge wire be large enough?

 
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dtavano

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