Setup upgrade necessary?

[PanzerOPA]

First of all I'm going to mark a disclaimer that I'm not savy with this type of work, at all. I have several friends which are moderately skilled and willing to do this installation given proper direction, so...

I have a 2002 Mustang w/ a 130 amp alternator (all stock) and prepared to buy a new battery as the current one is at the end of its lifespan.

I want to power 4x100rms Alpine R's and they come with 4 tweeters as well, some package deal.

Here's what I've got, two sets

Then I want to power two subs for a total of 800 watts rms

So the total system is going to be 1200rms plus whatever the tweeters put out. Couldn't tell, info would be much appreciated.

Based upon this, what is recommended to have a safely powered setup. Crutchfield said buy a 3f cap but everyone here hates them I see...so....

Edit: I do not plan to upgrade after this setup. This setup will also use 2 amps

Click to read more...

 

[PanzerOPA]

Just want to add that one friend has done home electrical and the other guy has put in systems so they seem confident in install, just want to cross check with you guys so I dont bring them incorrect research.

 

[What was that? 10+ year member]

Add the agm battery and do the big three. Upgrade your battery to alt, engine to chassis, and battery ground to chassis cables. Switch those 3 cables to 2awg or better and that will help a lot. Make sure your cable battery to trunk is 2 awg or better also. Bigger is better when it's power cable. 130 amp factory alt is not horrible. I always upgrade alts also. Common sense said to me that if you need to increase ability to pass electric then you need to be able to create the extra electric your passing!

 

[PanzerOPA]

Yah I saw the Big 3 was a must, what agm brands do you like? Optima doesn't seem to get as high of reviews these days... and my friend actually has a cap I can use for free, should I throw it in there given its free?

And much appreciated for the info man, feeling pretty good about this.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Yah I saw the Big 3 was a must, what agm brands do you like? Optima doesn't seem to get as high of reviews these days... and my friend actually has a cap I can use for free, should I throw it in there given its free?
And much appreciated for the info man, feeling pretty good about this.

First off you don't replace the wires with the big 3 kit you only add the wires from the kit. Second the agm battery you want a battery that's 90-100 ah group 31 also your speakers are prolly components I gather. If so the 4 channel amp will power all of them Subs. Sounds like you have the older type r subs. So 1000 watt rms amp at 1 ohm is what you need No cap. No cap period if you give us a budget and goals. We can try to help you get the right equipment for your system

 

[PanzerOPA]

Hey so the subs to be powered will be 2 10" Alpine S's, yes I put a link to the component speaker in op as well. I'll be sure to read some Big 3 teks before doing it of course, but yah budget is pretty flexible if the need for further upgrades is justified. Just keep in mind that I will not further upgrade the system wattage. Thanks for taking time to help man,

and I'll be sure to order that cap right away! lol

BTW the reason I was using a two amp setup is that I already have an Alpine 800rms mono amp laying around and the subs I got cheap from a friend, amp and subs @ 2ohms.

Is it possible I can just wire the tweeters to the deck amp? It runs 4x23rms

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Yah I saw the Big 3 was a must, what agm brands do you like? Optima doesn't seem to get as high of reviews these days... and my friend actually has a cap I can use for free, should I throw it in there given its free?
And much appreciated for the info man, feeling pretty good about this.

Most important is to add a thick and short piece of wire between the - battery terminal and a solid, sanded-clean spot on the body.

I'm a big fan of the Sears Die Hard Platinum battery. High quality AGM with the best warranty around. Also, unlike boutique internet brands you don't have to worry about finding a dealer or mailing it somewhere to cash in on your 5 year warranty.

One good AGM under the hood + the upgraded ground wire should be plenty adequate.

 

[PanzerOPA]

Okay so I've decided to replace the alternator and I'll go with a quality 170amp, combined with B3 wiring. I'd strongly like to avoid a heavy battery (this is a sports car so it's bad for weight dist.). Could I run something along the performance specs of a D34 Optima Yellowtop? I'd like to retain the factory battery position as well. I'm willing to learn here, not trying to ignorantly accept answers so I'd love to hear a little tech talk! Just don't drown me...

Thanks for all help so far. I'm taking your recommendations into consideration.

Crutchfield said just to add a second battery (LINK) and upgrade wiring when I spoke to them, which seems very backwards from what you guys recommend. So the people selling stuff recommend less, but you guys are offering free advice which suggests more. You all seem very knowledgeable so... Thoughts?

 

[supra1987]

I'd strongly like to avoid a heavy battery (this is a sports car so it's bad for weight dist.).

Not much difference in weight for the size you would need.maybe 10 lbs if going with a decent agm.diehard platinums from sears like mentioned above I believe are the best deal for price and warranty.yellow tops overated.imo

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

Not to be a thread jacker but i am In the same dilema, except i got a 1990 gmc c1500 4.3L. I would be running a hifonics bre 2500.1 and a ppi bk 800.4. Hopefully upgrade to the q2200 and the q4-120 sooner then later so id prefer an electrical that can keep me at 14V. Is an optima upfront and a HO singer alt enough to keep me running up there or would i need a second battery? And if so what do you guys recommend?

 

[OzNath 10+ year member]

Im running a Optima yellow top D34 for about a year now still going strong

 

[CrossoverOre 10+ year member]

if you do the ho alt, big 3, and upgrade to agm under the hood you should be just fine. Sometimes the ppl you talk to at crutchfield are not the best ppl to get advice from. just a couple of months ago a customer orders up a new deck and parts for the install and the parts he got were not even compatible with the stereo they sold him.

 

[PanzerOPA]

@Supre1987 - Yeah I'm aiming for like the 45-55lb price range. I looked up the 31 class DieHard Platinum someone recommended and it was rated 75 lbs, tad bit heavy haha

@C1500 Martin - The reasoning I'm going with is to go with an "across the board" approach to this. I figure why have a weak and a strong link together. That's the notion I'm getting.

@CrossoverOre - Corporations man... My UPS driver couldn't turn around to drop my subs off due to corporate tracking. Said he'd get in trouble for turning around so I had to meet him at my pool. Sears.com said - let us recommend a battery via our qualified team... it was the most clueless person I've ever talked to...and awkward. Crutchfield - Here's a 2nd battery install kit. "This needs to be vented, but you don't supply any enclosure? That's not safe." Well yeah we don't supply that. "Shouldn't this hazard be advertised?" Yah I guess you're right. WHAT

I'm happy with the recommendations I've seen, thanks everyone!

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

@Supre1987 - Yeah I'm aiming for like the 45-55lb price range. I looked up the 31 class DieHard Platinum someone recommended and it was rated 75 lbs, tad bit heavy haha
@C1500 Martin - The reasoning I'm going with is to go with an "across the board" approach to this. I figure why have a weak and a strong link together. That's the notion I'm getting.

@CrossoverOre - Corporations man... My UPS driver couldn't turn around to drop my subs off due to corporate tracking. Said he'd get in trouble for turning around so I had to meet him at my pool. Sears.com said - let us recommend a battery via our qualified team... it was the most clueless person I've ever talked to...and awkward. Crutchfield - Here's a 2nd battery install kit. "This needs to be vented, but you don't supply any enclosure? That's not safe." Well yeah we don't supply that. "Shouldn't this hazard be advertised?" Yah I guess you're right. WHAT

I'm happy with the recommendations I've seen, thanks everyone!

Go to xs power. They have a app that can tell you what size battery will fit your car. Doesn't have to be an xs power battery but it will give you the group size Also depending on your stock alt size. The 170 may not be big enough

 

[CrossoverOre 10+ year member]

funny you mention ups. I chat up my driver all the time and they can get in trouble for everything. they monitor seat belts front and rear doors being open or closed moving forward or backwards. I thought it was the dumbest thing.

a 20lb difference in battery weight isnt that much. Thats about the same as 3.5 gal of gas.