Scored some gear in a car purchase

Hoping to get done working on this car today and then maybe this evening or tomorrow I'll have time to start looking into what I would need to do.

I do have an aftermarket Pioneer head unit in there now. But I'm not entirely sure what will need to be done to bypass the bose amplifier. I know I've seen guys talk about doing it on the duramax forum I'm on, so I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out.

Question for you guys about mounting depth. How deep into the box can the speaker sit? Like how close can the back of the magnet be to the other side of the box? Just curious about building a down firing enclosure. 2" of lift would only give me about 8" of space from floor to bottom of the seat. Those subs are 8.5" from surround to bottom when not firing. So I feel like 2" wouldn't get me where I need to be for that particular setup

 
I'm compiling the info I've been getting. Please, check me on my thoughts and let me know if I'm off track anywhere.

So on Skar's site, suggested box size is 1.25^3 for a ported enclosure. Sealed is significantly smaller at .65^3.

Crescendo says that the amp will put out 3875 @ 1 ohm, 1900 @ 2 ohm, and 1150 @ 4 ohm.

Here are a couple hypothetical situations. Getting numbers from the12volt.

1 - 4 of these subs, wired for RMS wattage about 3600 @ 1 ohm final load.

2 - 3 of these subs, wired for RMS wattage about 2700 @ 1.34 ohm final load

3 - 2 of these subs, wired for RMS wattage about 1800 @ 2 ohm final load

4 - 1 sub, wired for RMS wattage about 900 @ 4 ohm final load

My thoughts on those options.

1 - I would LOVE to be able to put 4 of these in the truck for the wow factor and some killer power. But I'm not sure that is a realistic goal without giving up truck function, having to spend too much money I wasn't planning to spend, and a lot of work.

2 - Not really any more likely to work than 4. But leaves me with an even number of subs to sell.

3 - Seems the most realistic of the options without sacrificing too much sound. No it isn't 4, but still almost as much RMS wattage as I had back in the day with my RFR3112s.

4 - Definitely the easiest to build for. Just not sure how pleased I would be with the output of a single sub of this stature. Also, feel like that is a lot of amp to be used on a single 8" sub.

Some questions for clarification

Is it true that the higher the ohm final load, the less stress there is on components?

Alright, this may be a ridiculous question, but has anyone cut out floor and made more space? I could lift my seats a bit, but don't think I can get near enough to either fire subs up or down. I am a metal fabricator and possess all the tools and ability to effectively increase the volume of my floor pan in the cab to accommodate a custom build, but I wouldn't want to delve into that unless I know for sure it would be worthwhile. That is a LOT of work to do right. But being that would move the drivers or the cones "outside" the regular square area of the cab, would that affect the sound?

How about custom seats? Or maybe just cutting out foam to get more clearance for the box?

Is there a box building calculator that will spell everything out? Or someone on here that happens to be a box guru that will share their knowledge? I've got the skills and tools to build my enclosure, but admittedly, the math perplexes me big time. Calculating volume, port size, etc just doesn't really click with me. Ultimately I need to know what size enclosure I can build before I can really decide on how many, if any I'm going to put in the truck.

For box building, if you're building a box for 2 subs instead of just 1, does the needed area increase exponentially, or is the volume calculation different? Especially considering port area and length. I know this would fall under box building ultimately, but I'm trying to figure out how much room I really need.

With box building, do odd shapes cause any sound issues? I don't mean egg shaped, but for example, say a box that looks like the shape of the letter L. Subs mounted on the upright surface and the lower leg for port/volume. I'm not sure if that wording even makes sense, so hopefully someone can answer or at very least try and translate my thought.

 
Hoping to get done working on this car today and then maybe this evening or tomorrow I'll have time to start looking into what I would need to do.
I do have an aftermarket Pioneer head unit in there now. But I'm not entirely sure what will need to be done to bypass the bose amplifier. I know I've seen guys talk about doing it on the duramax forum I'm on, so I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out.

Question for you guys about mounting depth. How deep into the box can the speaker sit? Like how close can the back of the magnet be to the other side of the box? Just curious about building a down firing enclosure. 2" of lift would only give me about 8" of space from floor to bottom of the seat. Those subs are 8.5" from surround to bottom when not firing. So I feel like 2" wouldn't get me where I need to be for that particular setup
Some people bypass the stock amp by simply unplugging the wire harness that goes to it. They also removed the stock amp. My Tahoe has one and I just left it in place, which is under the dash. It's not interfering with anything so left it. Then simply cut the necessary wires you need from the harness to power them from the amp.

Usually 1-2" is normal spacing from the back of sub mag to the bottom or top board.

 
I'm compiling the info I've been getting. Please, check me on my thoughts and let me know if I'm off track anywhere.
So on Skar's site, suggested box size is 1.25^3 for a ported enclosure. Sealed is significantly smaller at .65^3.

Crescendo says that the amp will put out 3875 @ 1 ohm, 1900 @ 2 ohm, and 1150 @ 4 ohm.

Here are a couple hypothetical situations. Getting numbers from the12volt.

1 - 4 of these subs, wired for RMS wattage about 3600 @ 1 ohm final load.

2 - 3 of these subs, wired for RMS wattage about 2700 @ 1.34 ohm final load

3 - 2 of these subs, wired for RMS wattage about 1800 @ 2 ohm final load

4 - 1 sub, wired for RMS wattage about 900 @ 4 ohm final load

My thoughts on those options.

1 - I would LOVE to be able to put 4 of these in the truck for the wow factor and some killer power. But I'm not sure that is a realistic goal without giving up truck function, having to spend too much money I wasn't planning to spend, and a lot of work.

2 - Not really any more likely to work than 4. But leaves me with an even number of subs to sell.

3 - Seems the most realistic of the options without sacrificing too much sound. No it isn't 4, but still almost as much RMS wattage as I had back in the day with my RFR3112s.

4 - Definitely the easiest to build for. Just not sure how pleased I would be with the output of a single sub of this stature. Also, feel like that is a lot of amp to be used on a single 8" sub.

Some questions for clarification

Is it true that the higher the ohm final load, the less stress there is on components?

Alright, this may be a ridiculous question, but has anyone cut out floor and made more space? I could lift my seats a bit, but don't think I can get near enough to either fire subs up or down. I am a metal fabricator and possess all the tools and ability to effectively increase the volume of my floor pan in the cab to accommodate a custom build, but I wouldn't want to delve into that unless I know for sure it would be worthwhile. That is a LOT of work to do right. But being that would move the drivers or the cones "outside" the regular square area of the cab, would that affect the sound?

How about custom seats? Or maybe just cutting out foam to get more clearance for the box?

Is there a box building calculator that will spell everything out? Or someone on here that happens to be a box guru that will share their knowledge? I've got the skills and tools to build my enclosure, but admittedly, the math perplexes me big time. Calculating volume, port size, etc just doesn't really click with me. Ultimately I need to know what size enclosure I can build before I can really decide on how many, if any I'm going to put in the truck.

For box building, if you're building a box for 2 subs instead of just 1, does the needed area increase exponentially, or is the volume calculation different? Especially considering port area and length. I know this would fall under box building ultimately, but I'm trying to figure out how much room I really need.

With box building, do odd shapes cause any sound issues? I don't mean egg shaped, but for example, say a box that looks like the shape of the letter L. Subs mounted on the upright surface and the lower leg for port/volume. I'm not sure if that wording even makes sense, so hopefully someone can answer or at very least try and translate my thought.
Wow... you are really considering doin' some work... maybe run all 4?.. droppin' the floor to accommodate the box is sick!.. if you do THAT you should start a build log... I for one would love to see that done... I'd model those subs for sure... the factory recommended enclosure is pretty restrictive for my Skars.

 
That's a wild idea... drop the floor pan some and raise the rear seat a little to fit all 4 subs... how would anyone configure the box... subs front & maybe aeroport it on the side... IDK, when I modeled all 4 the box came out at 5 ft3 net @ 36 hz with 3 6" aeros to be around the minimum area for that amount of power...a slot port will be very difficult indeed... it IS cool build if it happens.

 
back to basics... space makes bass

if you can get enough room to fit an enclosure that will house 4 subs and the port with enough internal NET volume thats your best bet

 
back to basics... space makes bass
if you can get enough room to fit an enclosure that will house 4 subs and the port with enough internal NET volume thats your best bet
You're right of course... I did try to go from the manufacturers specs in an effort to fit them all in... IDK how much bigger the OP will go even if he decides to do this epic build... LOL!.. I should also say that once I threw away the factory specs on mine and went WAY bigger... the result is not only better sound but no coil smell as well... IDK why Skar recommends an enclosure sure to have power compression at RMS?.. 4 would still be cool without losing the backseat entirely... Just thinking out loud here... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
I did do come up with one using 3 6" aeros to save space and it was 5ft3 NET double baffled but the OP would have to do all the modifications he alluded to.. probably even raise the seat a couple of inches as well... the port area I did meet minimums using Triticum's calculator for that power level... so I think It'll work... but it IS a project!.. AHHH... Car Audio... what a trip... LOL!

 
Yeah I'm definitely not committing to any crazy ideas yet. Once I'm done working on the car that I pulled the gear out of, then I'll take the time to go over my truck and see what can be done within reason. I don't mind doing metal fab work, so long as the amount of work would be worth it in the end. Building whatever box I need I can do as well without much complaint other than the fabric. I wouldn't even consider any of this if I had to pay someone else to build or install. I'm all about bang for buck.

Please feel free to continue throwing opinions my way. Definitely open minded to hear anyone's ideas. Or if you've done anything crazy along the same lines, share your methods!

 
Yeah I'm definitely not committing to any crazy ideas yet. Once I'm done working on the car that I pulled the gear out of, then I'll take the time to go over my truck and see what can be done within reason. I don't mind doing metal fab work, so long as the amount of work would be worth it in the end. Building whatever box I need I can do as well without much complaint other than the fabric. I wouldn't even consider any of this if I had to pay someone else to build or install. I'm all about bang for buck.
Please feel free to continue throwing opinions my way. Definitely open minded to hear anyone's ideas. Or if you've done anything crazy along the same lines, share your methods!
When you get time... I'd post your W x H x D to let those who can work their magic...Take a pic even to show the floor contour... I'm throwing out ideas but have never modified a floor... I've raised a few seats in my time and pulled a few out... LOL!.. but I'm always trying to learn something new...

 
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