Beatkeeper1
10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
What type of blade do you use in your saws for cutting mdf. # of teeth blade type etc.
No, it's definitely not. Plywood blades are almost exclusively at least 60T, and I've never seen a plywood blade under 48T. I use a diamond coated Dewalt 80T blade in my table saw, and I've been using it for years. It's never once burned my wood.x2 smoother cuts. Plywood is usually a rough cut or 24t blade, not good for MDF...
No, any wood cutting blade will not do. A cheap steel blade used for softwoods will burn your MDF like Joan of Arc and then go dull so you can't repeat the results. The second part of your statement is as true as it gets, to a point. Above 100T, and the blade can tend to not have enough bite to actually saw through the wood well. That's the realm of finishing blades, and they typically aren't suited to cutting sheet woods.Any wood cutting blade will do. But the more teeth, the smoother the cut.
Who do you think you are?No, any wood cutting blade will not do. A cheap steel blade used for softwoods will burn your MDF like Joan of Arc and then go dull so you can't repeat the results. The second part of your statement is as true as it gets, to a point. Above 100T, and the blade can tend to not have enough bite to actually saw through the wood well. That's the realm of finishing blades, and they typically aren't suited to cutting sheet woods.
MDF is basically like paper. I've had no problem easily cutting it with a variety of less-than-sharp blades, and even routing the edges of it very nicely with less-than-sharp router blades. Maybe I should've said "any wood cutting blade with carbide teeth" ... but unless OP plans to make a living building boxes, or needs the blade to last a loooong time, or just wants to spend a lot of money on a saw blade, I still say any sharp wood cutting blade will work for him to make a box; True, it may be dull at the end of the job.No, any wood cutting blade will not do. A cheap steel blade used for softwoods will burn your MDF like Joan of Arc and then go dull so you can't repeat the results. The second part of your statement is as true as it gets, to a point. Above 100T, and the blade can tend to not have enough bite to actually saw through the wood well. That's the realm of finishing blades, and they typically aren't suited to cutting sheet woods.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif I still come around every few months even though you and ion/JBL put me out of business //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gifWho do you think you are?
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Havent seen you around for awhile.
But you see, that's quite frankly a hopeless bit of reasoning. Why would you spend money on something that you KNOW will end up costing you more money and effort? If you drop 50-60 on an outstanding carbide or diamond tipped blade with 60T, you won't be changing that blade for years. If you drop 25 on a cheap steel blade, you'll be changing that blade after a few boxes because even if it's still sharp, it'll likely be warped or otherwise bent.MDF is basically like paper. I've had no problem easily cutting it with a variety of less-than-sharp blades, and even routing the edges of it very nicely with less-than-sharp router blades. Maybe I should've said "any wood cutting blade with carbide teeth" ... but unless OP plans to make a living building boxes, or needs the blade to last a loooong time, or just wants to spend a lot of money on a saw blade, I still say any sharp wood cutting blade will work for him to make a box; True, it may be dull at the end of the job.