Sa-10s under powered?

[apeterson26]

Under the rear seat of 2010 f150 is flat and wide, no dips or rises in the floor at all.

 

[bandit_kb]

Depth max for subs should be 6.25

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[shredder2]

Looks like your coming to realize that getting a "design" is gonna be like finding hen's teeth... the dual SA-10 underseat 2010 F-150 ported enclosure is something you'll have to fabricate to do correctly... finding the available airspace is only a matter of basic math (a little time consuming) and finding the front baffle height, side panel angle and rear panel height can be done BEFORE removing the seat to start... once you know the baffle height you're gonna use, measure the height difference between the stock height at the front vs the rear at the side of the seat... translate that height difference to the new baffle height and you got the basic layout/measurements of the sides and rear... I suspect that even if the floor is as flat as you say it might need to be fabbed in and fit checked anyways but at least you'll have a rough volume to start out with... watch out for clearance regarding the magnet/top panel/bottom panel (seat angle) and using a round port figure the best size and how long to cut the port tube to port it to your musical tastes... da*n!.. even simplified it sounds like a real bear!.. but it can be done, that's for sure...

I still stick by my original advice to get the MAXIMUM airspace out of the area you got... if it was mine I'd do it this way...

If it was mine I'd cut the baffle to see how it looks...(use cardboard to get the floor contour right)... and see how much the seat will be raised (subs forward btw)... then mask the floor and fab the sides, rear and bottom pieces in using hot glue and a small amount of fiberglass (the bottom might have a bunch of pieces btw)... then remove it and use Styrofoam popcorn to measure the volume with the top off... Then finish glassing the pieces to strengthen the enclosure before side porting it using the volume you came up with...(round port)... at that point I'd check fit one more time before closing the top... make sure any bracing (port or top panel is in before using the Styrofoam popcorn to get volume... reinstall the seat and use spacers to raise it to wherever the box sits (try to match the seat angle when setting all the pieces in and fabbing them together when you just initally fiberglass it and hot glue it)... that's why people pay shops to do these underseat boxes... but it CAN be done... that's how I'd do it anyways... and someone else has a better way I'm sure... I've seen CNC cut pieces used for these types of enclosures!.. anyways once I knew my volume THEN I'd port it as low as I could up to 31hz... put some grilles on those 10's for the kids feet... carpet the thing and power it up... simple huh?

That's just me... I like projects... lol

Sorry... didn't mean to scare ya'... lol

Oh... and BTW when the seat's out you might as well mat the rear cabin wall under the window while its accessible... that's a real bad spot for flex and it'll be something I'd do for sure... I'm about minimizing flex if I can... it increases SPL and lowers the noise floor... and matting the roof/back wall is something I'd recommend anyways... ok... I'm done finally... lol

easy or hard... either way is gonna be some work... and a "plan?"... that video that Jeff posted shows what to plan for... good luck

Maybe there's an easier route but this is an example of couple of methods I'd use... ^^^^^^

 

[apeterson26]

Much appreciated shredder, I have been working on simple designs since last night and what i have to work with (before) the seat lift is: 9" front side, 14" wide, 6" back side (sloped down from the 9" front side) with 54" wide.

 

[shredder2]

Much appreciated shredder, I have been working on simple designs since last night and what i have to work with (before) the seat lift is: 9" front side, 14" wide, 6" back side (sloped down from the 9" front side) with 54" wide.

you're on the right track... here's a rough estimate using .75 materials (and a 2" lift) without bracing and a flat bottom panel (yea right)... lol... I don't know speaker displacement by memory for those so I guessed at .22... I averaged front/rear height but you'll need to check magnet clearance and this is only a ROUGH idea of the space (no floor contour) and port you'll need... NOT finished... Torres makes this easy BTW

 

[apeterson26]

Guy an hour from here just quoted me $250 for custom box tuned for the sa-10s

 

[shredder2]

Guy an hour from here just quoted me $250 for custom box tuned for the sa-10s

What's stopping you?.. you could do it for less but hey!.. an hour away?..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Under the rear seat of 2010 f150 is flat and wide, no dips or rises in the floor at all.

And you can fit a pair of 10's under there no problem??

 

[shredder2]

And you can fit a pair of 10's under there no problem??

Looks like it to me... 2 inch lift on seat

 

[apeterson26]

Yes i have sa-10s under it now in cardboard box wangin lol (fox box)

 

[apeterson26]

Could it be im expecting more than its doing, its loud but not loud enough, barely vibrates rear view lol

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Could it be im expecting more than its doing, its loud but not loud enough, barely vibrates rear view lol

No it should definitely flex your windshieldat least an inch when done right. This is horribly done, you dont understand how bad the fox box is lmfao. also drop it down to half ohm and set your gain till your max drop is around 12.8 volts.

 

[bandit_kb]

Well you have them in a down firing box that is too small with a small port.

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[shredder2]

Looks like it to me... 2 inch lift on seat

This one looks easy to build just use your head to modify the cut sheet provided... it's only wood if you fail

 

[bandit_kb]

If you go on the SSA forum, there is an f150 build log. It has a design there and cut sheet if I remember correctly. It’s for 3 F8l’s but I’m sure it would be close to 2 SA 10s

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