Two 10s and a 12 off one amp??

[Koverbover]

Could I run 3 svc 4 ohm subs (one 12 and two 10) from one mono amp? It's 1000w rms alpine (stable at 2ohm). I built my first box (photo attached) and can't add another amp to my stock electrical, I already have that alpine mentioned and a 500w rms Soundstage 4 channel for my front components. Anything helps, first build. Thanks

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[HardofWhoring]

If they are all 4 ohm SVC subs, then you would be wiring them down to 1.33 ohms at the amp. If your amp was stable at 1 ohm, then definitely. 1,2,4 ohms are just common and easy to compare, but not required to be a hole number. It might work, and it might not. I would expect an ALPINE amp to be well made, get really close to rated power, but MORE THAN MOST AMPS, I WOULDN'T expect it to do what it's not rated for. I would also expect that you aren't going to get much more than rated power out of it, to try to turn it up for 3 subs.

If those subs are 500w RMS, I would rather have (2) 10s getting the wattage they are supposed to get then 3 subs getting 2/3rds.

IMO your two options are:
YOU HAVE TO USE THAT AMP: Take out the middle sub, and see what you can do with that space. Maybe you can turn it into a port, a passive radiator, or maybe even an amp rack. You could use your amp, and that's still going to hit pretty well for what it is.

OR IMO THE BETTER OPTION, IS TO JUST GET AN AMP THAT WILL PLAY ALL 3. You would want 1500w RMS @ 1.33 ohms by 1ch. They will never rate that, but when you do the math 1.33 is right in the middle of 1 and 2 ohms. If it can do 1700 @ 1 ohm, and 1300 @ 2 ohm, then that would be right there at 1500w @ 1.33. Anything that can do 1500w @ 2 ohm and is stable at 1 ohm would work, (and they aren't hard to find, or cost that much).

I know you're other thread you were asking about the electrical to support it. That might be the reason you don't get the third sub, (or just not yet). That 500w sub is adding about 40-45 amp draw on your system. Maybe you find an alternator that's about 220 for a great deal. Maybe a 260, 280, or 300 amp alt is the next option, a few hundred bucks more and with the cost of a new amp is not in the budget right now. An amp you can buy and you can sell it or maybe find a different use for it. (unless you've got 2 or 3 vehicles with the same engine, and same alt), Alternators, SUK buying one just one size not big enough, and then buying another one. The first one you buy should be big enough for what you MIGHT want to do.

An alternator has two numbers that matter when buying one:
amp output at or near idle, &
rpm needed for max output. You need to know what it will do when you stop at a light, and what will it do when cruising. Know what RPM you cruise at, and get those two numbers before you buy. If they can't or won't give em to you, then move on. Any great alt will do most at idle, and full output around 2K rpm. The ebay specials you see for $100 bucks or so will do less than your stock at idle, and won't do full until over 3K rpm. IMO if budget is a factor, then get the good alt first, (that is big enough for what you MIGHT do). Do your 2 subs with that amp, and enjoy it. Keep an eye out, maybe even try to sell your amp while you're enjoying it, and use that cash for a new amp. Then get the third sub going.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Any ohm load of 1.6 or lower should be considered to use a 1 ohm stable amplifier for the supply. Any lower and you run the risk of an amplifier becoming damaged/burned up,as well as damaging the subs. I would run the 2 ohm stable load on two tens or a 4 ohm load on the single 12. The two tens would be a much better choice that you have and amplifier

 

[Koverbover]

If they are all 4 ohm SVC subs, then you would be wiring them down to 1.33 ohms at the amp. If your amp was stable at 1 ohm, then definitely. 1,2,4 ohms are just common and easy to compare, but not required to be a hole number. It might work, and it might not. I would expect an ALPINE amp to be well made, get really close to rated power, but MORE THAN MOST AMPS, I WOULDN'T expect it to do what it's not rated for. I would also expect that you aren't going to get much more than rated power out of it, to try to turn it up for 3 subs.

If those subs are 500w RMS, I would rather have (2) 10s getting the wattage they are supposed to get then 3 subs getting 2/3rds.

IMO your two options are:
YOU HAVE TO USE THAT AMP: Take out the middle sub, and see what you can do with that space. Maybe you can turn it into a port, a passive radiator, or maybe even an amp rack. You could use your amp, and that's still going to hit pretty well for what it is.

OR IMO THE BETTER OPTION, IS TO JUST GET AN AMP THAT WILL PLAY ALL 3. You would want 1500w RMS @ 1.33 ohms by 1ch. They will never rate that, but when you do the math 1.33 is right in the middle of 1 and 2 ohms. If it can do 1700 @ 1 ohm, and 1300 @ 2 ohm, then that would be right there at 1500w @ 1.33. Anything that can do 1500w @ 2 ohm and is stable at 1 ohm would work, (and they aren't hard to find, or cost that much).

I know you're other thread you were asking about the electrical to support it. That might be the reason you don't get the third sub, (or just not yet). That 500w sub is adding about 40-45 amp draw on your system. Maybe you find an alternator that's about 220 for a great deal. Maybe a 260, 280, or 300 amp alt is the next option, a few hundred bucks more and with the cost of a new amp is not in the budget right now. An amp you can buy and you can sell it or maybe find a different use for it. (unless you've got 2 or 3 vehicles with the same engine, and same alt), Alternators, SUK buying one just one size not big enough, and then buying another one. The first one you buy should be big enough for what you MIGHT want to do.

An alternator has two numbers that matter when buying one:
amp output at or near idle, &
rpm needed for max output. You need to know what it will do when you stop at a light, and what will it do when cruising. Know what RPM you cruise at, and get those two numbers before you buy. If they can't or won't give em to you, then move on. Any great alt will do most at idle, and full output around 2K rpm. The ebay specials you see for $100 bucks or so will do less than your stock at idle, and won't do full until over 3K rpm. IMO if budget is a factor, then get the good alt first, (that is big enough for what you MIGHT do). Do your 2 subs with that amp, and enjoy it. Keep an eye out, maybe even try to sell your amp while you're enjoying it, and use that cash for a new amp. Then get the third sub going.

 

[Koverbover]

Thanks buddy, I appreciate it. I have the option to use a 2 channel 1200w rms to hopefully have a whole channel running to the 12. I'm pretty sure the electricals can handle an extra 200w rms. It should make all the subs stable and hopefully perform, I just need to figure out how to wire 3 subs with 2 channels.
It's a huge hassle getting behind the monster of the box, but it should be fun. What thread can I post to to keep with updates? I'm new to the website.

 

[Koverbover]

Any ohm load of 1.6 or lower should be considered to use a 1 ohm stable amplifier for the supply. Any lower and you run the risk of an amplifier becoming damaged/burned up,as well as damaging the subs. I would run the 2 ohm stable load on two tens or a 4 ohm load on the single 12. The two tens would be a much better choice that you have and amplifier

Yeah I burned up the 12 after a but of testing for the first time, smoke firing out of the ports. Wasn't a fun experience.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yeah I burned up the 12 after a but of testing for the first time, smoke firing out of the ports. Wasn't a fun experience.

Thats a shame man. Not good to hear. Id get those tens in a properly tuned/ported enclosure and wire those to the final 2 ohm load and run those. i like running my 2 HDS310s @ a final 2 ohm load and they get down pretty good on some power.

 

[Koverbover]

Thats a shame man. Not good to hear. Id get those tens in a properly tuned/ported enclosure and wire those to the final 2 ohm load and run those. i like running my 2 HDS310s @ a final 2 ohm load and they get down pretty good on some power.

I got hold of a 2 channel 1200w rms amp that I could be used to wire 10s through the left channel and the 12 through the right, I hope that works. The 10s sound great wired in 2 ohm, the sperate sealed boxes are perfect for my music taste. Just need the lows now lol.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I got hold of a 2 channel 1200w rms amp that I could be used to wire 10s through the left channel and the 12 through the right, I hope that works. The 10s sound great wired in 2 ohm, the sperate sealed boxes are perfect for my music taste. Just need the lows now lol.

You get those tens in the right enclosure and tuned right on that Alpine and you should get some lows incorporated.Put that 12 in another setup on its own

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I got hold of a 2 channel 1200w rms amp that I could be used to wire 10s through the left channel and the 12 through the right, I hope that works. The 10s sound great wired in 2 ohm, the sperate sealed boxes are perfect for my music taste. Just need the lows now lol.

You get those tens in the right enclosure and tuned right on that Alpine and you should get some lows incorporated.Put that 12 in another setup on its own

I got hold of a 2 channel 1200w rms amp that I could be used to wire 10s through the left channel and the 12 through the right, I hope that works. The 10s sound great wired in 2 ohm, the sperate sealed boxes are perfect for my music taste. Just need the lows now lol.

If you save some funds and get a pair of DVC 2 ohm tens in a decent tuned enclosure to place on that Alpine 1k would be ideal to get some lows. There should be some xmas sales coming up if you can wait that long?Maybe even some other sales before then?

TROPO-10 // 650 Watts RMS 10 Inch Car Subwoofer

The CT Sounds TROPO-10 is a 10-inch car subwoofer capable of reaching 1300-watt max power. Available in dual 2-ohm and dual 4-ohm coil configurations.

www.ctsounds.com

 

[Koverbover]

The 10's put out clean lows already, it's great. If those 10s you linked can ship to Canada, I'll sell my JL's and pick those up. I'm going to keep the 12, as I built the box for it. I figured it would be cool to have sealed and ported subs in one. I hope this 2 channel amp can solve my issues, but I might need a new 12.

You get those tens in the right enclosure and tuned right on that Alpine and you should get some lows incorporated.Put that 12 in another setup on its own

If you save some funds and get a pair of DVC 2 ohm tens in a decent tuned enclosure to place on that Alpine 1k would be ideal to get some lows. There should be some xmas sales coming up if you can wait that long?Maybe even some other sales before then?

TROPO-10 // 650 Watts RMS 10 Inch Car Subwoofer

The CT Sounds TROPO-10 is a 10-inch car subwoofer capable of reaching 1300-watt max power. Available in dual 2-ohm and dual 4-ohm coil configurations.

www.ctsounds.com

 

[HardofWhoring]

I got hold of a 2 channel 1200w rms amp that I could be used to wire 10s through the left channel and the 12 through the right, I hope that works. The 10s sound great wired in 2 ohm, the sperate sealed boxes are perfect for my music taste. Just need the lows now lol.

No, that won't work. If all 3 are 500w RMS SVC 4ohm subs, then you have 2 ohm in one channel that wants 1,000w and the other channel would be 4 ohm 500w. It's not gonna work like that.


If all 3 subs are 500w @ 4 ohm SVC, then you need a 3ch amp, or a 1ch amp, TO PLAY THEM ALL OFF ONE AMP.

You could use the 2 ch amp for your two 10s, and if your 12 is still good, (check the resistance of the coil), then use your alpine for 1ch @ 4ohm for that amp.

You do this:

to set your gains for the desired wattage.

 

[Koverbover]

The 10s are 300w rms, the 12 is 400. The problem is I can't add another amp (or I can? I'm scared to) just in case my electrical system can't handle it. I'm really stuck, as I want the 12 to make noise but I can't add more current through my alt (again I don't know, just being safe). I'm going to bridge the 12 on channel 3 + 4 on my 4 channel and see if that works, at least to make it move. I do have an extra kicker 500w that powered the 12 before. I did have that Alpine 1000w rms powering the 10s and the kicker 500 with the 12, but after making the box I added another 500w 4 channel for my front components. The kickers out, idk if my system can handle another 500w amp. What do you think?

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

As everyone else has already mentioned, if you properly port the 2 10s, you will probably be quite happy. My first system was 2 10" rockford punch or power, can't remember. 4 or 500rms each in a custom ported box and they would blur your vision in a trunk car with seats that don't fold down.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I misread that. I thought they were 500w each.
If you're dead set on wanting to use 3 subs:

1000w is 1000w whether its from one amp or two. There's no risk to your alternator or any electrical, as long as you use cable that is "at least big enough".

Your alternator recharges the battery. If you draw more than it can recharge, then you're just going to watch your voltage gauge slowly drop, until it eventually kills the battery (which will take a while). All you have to do is turn the volume down. If you set it up as two amps, you just pull the fuse out of probably the 12" until you upgrade the alt.

WHAT I WOULD DO: Go ahead and set up both amps. Run it, see how it effects your electrical, and then disconnect the 12" and see how much of a difference it makes. THEN REEVALUATE whether or not a 3rd sub and an upgraded alt is worth it. You might barely notice the bump, and it's about 40 amps, which on a stock alt with where this is going, might be the difference in needing a new alt or not. Price out the alts, see if it's worth it. If you built the box, maybe you have spare wood, and want to try a different design with two, or maybe you can modify that one to add ports.

I