Running rich on driver's side only

[revrider1 5,000+ posts]

Yep, it will do 90mph easy...

Just the take off is dirty

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

Yep, it will do 90mph easy...
Just the take off is dirty

if i were you, id take a glance at it.

 

[revrider1 5,000+ posts]

yeah, i need to take it off and check it...

My tailpipe is black also...

Almost seems like its flooding on take off...

 

[IDSkoT 5,000+ posts]

How many o2's would you suppose my car has?

I wouldn't mind changing them all out if there's only 2 or 3 or so.

If there's 4... ef that. I'm not paying $200> bucks for that. But if it's two [which would be awesome] I wouldn't mind paying ~$100 bucks and replacing them all.

I also read somewhere you need a special o2 socket for some cars.

Any one have a list of said cars?

 

[IDSkoT 5,000+ posts]

/bump

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

honestly, if you're worried about the money, i would just get them checked out for function.

usually when an o2 goes bad, it will set off a CEL. now if its biased rich or lean it usually wont, assuming it hasnt broken the threshold of the parameters set by the manufacturer. i would honestly just take it to autozone, get their scanner, connect it, turn the car on, let it get nice and toasty and go into closed loop and then watch the o2 sensors on the scanners and see how they react. should be a nice steady bounce from .150 or so to .750-.800v. if one of them sticks on a certain range (car has to be in closed loop, open loop everything runs off parameters that the ecu states) its no good,

id check for vaccum leaks before i did an o2 sensor if i was short on cash. check around the intake manifold on the drivers side.

btw, dont make the mistake i did. i thought my car needed the universal o2 sensors and bought one way back because thats what the ***** at autozone said (unless i wanted to go oem from the dealer i needed the universal) which was way more expensive than the standard. when i went back to pick up two more for the hell of it, i got a different employee and he gave me an option of what i wanted..... paid about half of what i did for the standard than what i did for the universal //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

 

[IDSkoT 5,000+ posts]

honestly, if you're worried about the money, i would just get them checked out for function.
usually when an o2 goes bad, it will set off a CEL. now if its biased rich or lean it usually wont, assuming it hasnt broken the threshold of the parameters set by the manufacturer. i would honestly just take it to autozone, get their scanner, connect it, turn the car on, let it get nice and toasty and go into closed loop and then watch the o2 sensors on the scanners and see how they react. should be a nice steady bounce from .150 or so to .750-.800v. if one of them sticks on a certain range (car has to be in closed loop, open loop everything runs off parameters that the ecu states) its no good,

id check for vaccum leaks before i did an o2 sensor if i was short on cash. check around the intake manifold on the drivers side.

btw, dont make the mistake i did. i thought my car needed the universal o2 sensors and bought one way back because thats what the ***** at autozone said (unless i wanted to go oem from the dealer i needed the universal) which was way more expensive than the standard. when i went back to pick up two more for the hell of it, i got a different employee and he gave me an option of what i wanted..... paid about half of what i did for the standard than what i did for the universal //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

Where/how would I check for vacuum leaks?

And, if I were to switch out the O2 sensors, I'd just get my Dad's friend to order them. I talked to the guy today, he said they're about $40 dollars a piece. Which is about half of what I would've paid at Autozone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

But we'll see.

Today I went and got Electronic Parts Cleaner from Autozone [Actually Advanced Autoparts, but it's the same ish.] and I took off the MAF and cleaned it nice and good. The sensor is nearly sparkling now =P

I disconnected the Negative while I was doing it, so the computer reset. When I turned on the car there was no Check Engine Light. But that's normal. We'll see in a few days if it comes back on or not.

The guy that has the mechanic shop, he was telling my Dad that Fords are known to get dirt and debris stuck in the MAF and such, and when / if they go bad, they send bad signals to the ECU making it think that an O2 is bad-- something like that. My Dad didn't care enough to devote it all to memory.

But, in a few days/week or two I don't get a Check Engine Light, I'm gunna forget about it. If not, I'm gunna change both O2's. I saw them today-- they're right ontop of my h pipes, right before they intersect. So, shouldn't be too hard to swap them out.

Now I just gotta figure out how to take the d@mn Fuel Filter out. fvcking Ford... and get new plugs. Having one side black and one side clear = bad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[MemphisCherokee 10+ year member]

Mine more hesitates on acceleration?

the EGR will **** with acceleration and itll idle roughly

i just worked on a girl's mustang with a ****ed up EGR and

theyre originally an aluminum EGR but they have a habit of oxidizing so if you replace is yourself try to get a plastic one. most places will replave it with plastic anyways.

for a temporary fix, you can take some caruburator cleaner to the current aluminum EGR

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

Where/how would I check for vacuum leaks?
And, if I were to switch out the O2 sensors, I'd just get my Dad's friend to order them. I talked to the guy today, he said they're about $40 dollars a piece. Which is about half of what I would've paid at Autozone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

But we'll see.

Today I went and got Electronic Parts Cleaner from Autozone [Actually Advanced Autoparts, but it's the same ish.] and I took off the MAF and cleaned it nice and good. The sensor is nearly sparkling now =P

I disconnected the Negative while I was doing it, so the computer reset. When I turned on the car there was no Check Engine Light. But that's normal. We'll see in a few days if it comes back on or not.

The guy that has the mechanic shop, he was telling my Dad that Fords are known to get dirt and debris stuck in the MAF and such, and when / if they go bad, they send bad signals to the ECU making it think that an O2 is bad-- something like that. My Dad didn't care enough to devote it all to memory.

But, in a few days/week or two I don't get a Check Engine Light, I'm gunna forget about it. If not, I'm gunna change both O2's. I saw them today-- they're right ontop of my h pipes, right before they intersect. So, shouldn't be too hard to swap them out.

Now I just gotta figure out how to take the d@mn Fuel Filter out. fvcking Ford... and get new plugs. Having one side black and one side clear = bad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

for fuel filters are FUN! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

just head out to car quest or a similar shop and you can pick up the fuel filter/ a/c tool for 8 bucks. its a one time thing and its worth it, considering you'll probably need it for the rusted out a/c accumulator thats so common on our year fords (late 90's are horrible, condensation developes and stays behind the insulation off the accumulator..bam, rusted out, refrigerent leak, no a/c)

as for the maf, if the maf is dirty it wont be able to meter the air correctly. it will usually run like shit with a rough idle, hesitation, etc etc. its probably not going to be your issue as a bad maf would affect all the cylinders since every bit of air going to the engine has to be metered by the maf. thats probably not your problem, but on the fords...it never hurts to clean the **** thing.

btw, if you're friends dad gots the hook up on parts, i might assume he works at a shop. if he does...a smoke machine will work wonders for you. connect the smoke machine to a vacuum line that has to do with the area you're trying to test, turn it on, and watch for smoke. where there is smoke, there is a leak.

 

[IDSkoT 5,000+ posts]

for fuel filters are FUN! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
just head out to car quest or a similar shop and you can pick up the fuel filter/ a/c tool for 8 bucks. its a one time thing and its worth it, considering you'll probably need it for the rusted out a/c accumulator thats so common on our year fords (late 90's are horrible, condensation developes and stays behind the insulation off the accumulator..bam, rusted out, refrigerent leak, no a/c)

as for the maf, if the maf is dirty it wont be able to meter the air correctly. it will usually run like shit with a rough idle, hesitation, etc etc. its probably not going to be your issue as a bad maf would affect all the cylinders since every bit of air going to the engine has to be metered by the maf. thats probably not your problem, but on the fords...it never hurts to clean the **** thing.

btw, if you're friends dad gots the hook up on parts, i might assume he works at a shop. if he does...a smoke machine will work wonders for you. connect the smoke machine to a vacuum line that has to do with the area you're trying to test, turn it on, and watch for smoke. where there is smoke, there is a leak.

Lmao. This made me laugh. 'specially 'cause of your ava

But, the thing is, the guy's shop is about 25-50 miles from me. So, it's not feasible.

But what size do I need? I saw like 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4. Do I just ask one that works for a '98 'stang?

P.S. Is yours manual or auto? I want to get a T-5 swap. I can prolly get all the stuff for a decent price. But, the problem is the placement. The place for the ****** is too far up. I kinda wanna make a new custom center console and extend it back more. Get a new drive shaft and an extender from the engine to the ******.

Thoughts?