Running rich on driver's side only

definately and air problem, this happens on a LOT of the ford's 90's engines. This happened in my explorer

if you have a local shucks, they will read your codes for free (which will tell you if its an O2 sensor or not)

as for cleaning the MAF sensor, just take it off your intake, spray it full of electrical cleaner spray, and let it dry (for a long *** time, you dont want to put it back in wet)

 
So I took my car to Advanced Autoparts today to run the codes. 

I got P1151 and P0174

Aparently it's running lean, not rich? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Anyway... What do I replace? The guy at Advanced Autoparts said MAF and O2. But, according to these codes, only the O2 is bad? Any help?

No one reads anymore. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

But, where can I get that electrical cleaner spray? Any hardware store? Any prefered brands?

They both refer to 'bank 2'. I just don't know where Bank 2 is.

 
well first off, bank 2 is going to be the side where cylinder 1 is not on...

you pretty much have 3 options here

1) the 02 sensor could be bad

2) unmetered air (vaccum leak, causing a lean condition, and fuel trim adjusting and starting to dump fuel to compensate)

3) maf is dirty (doubt it here, considering only bank 2 is jacked. the maf will affect all cylinders as its the only point where air is metered for the whole engine)

 
well first off, bank 2 is going to be the side where cylinder 1 is not on...
you pretty much have 3 options here

1) the 02 sensor could be bad

2) unmetered air (vaccum leak, causing a lean condition, and fuel trim adjusting and starting to dump fuel to compensate)

3) maf is dirty (doubt it here, considering only bank 2 is jacked. the maf will affect all cylinders as its the only point where air is metered for the whole engine)


Well, Bank 2 = Passenger side, I'm guessing?

My driver's side's plugs are incredibly dirty as shown in OP.

I'll clean out my MAF anyway.

But, do you suppose the Bank 2 O2 censor is somewhere along the header on my passenger side?

 
Well, Bank 2 = Passenger side, I'm guessing?My driver's side's plugs are incredibly dirty as shown in OP.

I'll clean out my MAF anyway.

But, do you suppose the Bank 2 O2 censor is somewhere along the header on my passenger side?
passenger side.

i would honestly check it out at autozone though. i believe their scanners will let you watch the 02 voltages fluctuating. you want to see an adjustment every so often from about .150v to .650 or higher.

there is a way to test it (using propane, but i doubt you would want to do it, especially on their shitty scanners out in a parking lot lol [ps, dont use the "voltage has to fluctuate 10 times a second" cause it doesnt...]) but shit, they arent expensive anyways, and considering the car is 10 years old, i would be surprised if its due for one. when i did mine, i replaced all of them.

 
My car has been running rich/lean. I got my check engine light scanned and it said " EVAP EMISSION FAILURE ".. what the hell does that mean? my car is running like shit...

 
My car has been running rich/lean. I got my check engine light scanned and it said " EVAP EMISSION FAILURE ".. what the hell does that mean? my car is running like shit...
what was the actual code number. ive never seen a code that just said "evap emission failure"

 
Buy a $17 Haynes repair manual for your car. It took me a long time to finally break down and buy one. In mine, it shows a bunch of pictures of differently worn plugs, tells what the cause and solution is for it.

 
It does say a code for my check engine .. I have taken it to 2 shops, and no one knows whats wrong,, But one guy @ autozone said it was the egr valve...
usually a bad egr valve (one that lets exhaust back in at idle) will make the engine either

a) run REAL rough at idle

b) stall at idle

you can check your egr valve by grabbing the vaccume line (assuming it is vaccum actuated) and ******* on it. you should be able to hear and feel it open and close as you "accuate" it.

 
usually a bad egr valve (one that lets exhaust back in at idle) will make the engine either
a) run REAL rough at idle

b) stall at idle

you can check your egr valve by grabbing the vaccume line (assuming it is vaccum actuated) and ******* on it. you should be able to hear and feel it open and close as you "accuate" it.
Hmm, i need to try that...
 
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