running PPI PC250 to stock fronts

[youdoofus]

what ticks me off is that i spent all that time getting it all looking pretty too.... im running about 8 inch runs of 8 guage for both power and ground from the distro blocks that have the old 4 gauge i was running before. The PPI amps will only take 8 gauge anyways, plus its very short runs. Anyways, its just a pisser because i spent all that time for a bad result

 

---------- Post added at 10:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 AM ----------

 

yikes yeah dude if you get an amp error message then there's something in the line.

im just gonna run it as a dead head and amp the fronts/subs and screw the rears

 

[youdoofus]

id get the soundqubed comps, but those tweeters are huge and wont fit behind my stock covers

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

id get the soundqubed comps, but those tweeters are huge and wont fit behind my stock covers

stay away from any component sets that are produced by SPL companies please... they have no idea what they are doing lmao. If you do go with them, go with their Pro audio lineup, thats where they are good at.

As for tweeters, you can use 1 inch pvc endcaps and screw it into anywhere you want in your car. Or buy tweeters that have mounting hardware like my massive ct-2s, pair it with some prv 200s. This would be a much superior setup than those soundqubed comps by far. The massive ct-2s come with mounting gear and crossover, plenty of members on here that tried them love em. The prvs are loud for the money and sound pretty smooth. About 20 dolalrs more than what you'd pay for the soundqubed but well worth. When you do upgrade your head unit to an active capable one, your SQ will jump dramatically as well. If you can splurge then go for crescendo pwx mids, they have a bit more midbass capabilities then the prv.

https://www.amazon.com/Massive-Audio-CT2-Tweeter-Crossovers/dp/B00NBC25UM

https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-6mb200-4-6-1-2-midbass-woofer-4-ohm--294-2703

crossover for the prv.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-25k-lpf-4-low-pass-speaker-crossover-2500-hz-12-db-octave--260-1864

 

[youdoofus]

stay away from any component sets that are produced by SPL companies please... they have no idea what they are doing lmao. If you do go with them, go with their Pro audio lineup, thats where they are good at.
As for tweeters, you can use 1 inch pvc endcaps and screw it into anywhere you want in your car. Or buy tweeters that have mounting hardware like my massive ct-2s, pair it with some prv 200s. This would be a much superior setup than those soundqubed comps by far. The massive ct-2s come with mounting gear and crossover, plenty of members on here that tried them love em. The prvs are loud for the money and sound pretty smooth. About 20 dolalrs more than what you'd pay for the soundqubed but well worth. When you do upgrade your head unit to an active capable one, your SQ will jump dramatically as well. If you can splurge then go for crescendo pwx mids, they have a bit more midbass capabilities then the prv.

https://www.amazon.com/Massive-Audio-CT2-Tweeter-Crossovers/dp/B00NBC25UM

https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-6mb200-4-6-1-2-midbass-woofer-4-ohm--294-2703

crossover for the prv.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-25k-lpf-8-low-pass-speaker-crossover-2500-hz-12-db-octave--260-1872

so, for wiring on thoseone run of +- from the amp to the input of the xover for the tweeter, then one run of +_ from the output of the xover to the tweeter itself, but would i be good to double up on the xovers input to run a +- to the driver?

also, that magnet is HUGE!! LoL i hope itll fit. Im pretty down with the stuff you recommended

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

so, for wiring on thoseone run of +- from the amp to the input of the xover for the tweeter, then one run of +_ from the output of the xover to the tweeter itself, but would i be good to double up on the xovers input to run a +- to the driver?
also, that magnet is HUGE!! LoL i hope itll fit. Im pretty down with the stuff you recommended

not sure what you mean by doubling up on the inputs. But it'll just be straight to crossover inputs and output to tweeters, same with the midrange crossovers.

At most you'll probably need 3/4 or 1.5 inch mdf/plywood baffle to space things out.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

so, for wiring on thoseone run of +- from the amp to the input of the xover for the tweeter, then one run of +_ from the output of the xover to the tweeter itself, but would i be good to double up on the xovers input to run a +- to the driver?
also, that magnet is HUGE!! LoL i hope itll fit. Im pretty down with the stuff you recommended

btw the midrange crossover is this one. The one i linked earlier was 8 ohms. this one is 4 ohms. i think its sold individually.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-25k-lpf-4-low-pass-speaker-crossover-2500-hz-12-db-octave--260-1864?AID=1457483&PID=6147010&SID=jb2gz9w20z000jz40005c

 

[youdoofus]

not sure what you mean by doubling up on the inputs.

i was seeing how i was going to get signal from the tweet xover to the mid driver, but the Dayton inouts have double posts, so i could use that as a passthru to piggyback the tweet onto it

But it'll just be straight to crossover inputs and output to tweeters, same with the midrange crossovers.
At most you'll probably need 3/4 or 1.5 inch mdf/plywood baffle to space things out.

i pm'd keep_hope_alive about that and he told me how much room there is between the grill and the speaker hole, but i cant remember what that number was, i have it in my inbox still tho, so im good there

btw the midrange crossover is this one. The one i linked earlier was 8 ohms. this one is 4 ohms. i think its sold individually.https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-25k-lpf-4-low-pass-speaker-crossover-2500-hz-12-db-octave--260-1864?AID=1457483&PID=6147010&SID=jb2gz9w20z000jz40005c

those look pretty! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif what would i use to cover them up? I dont see any protective cases like im used to seeing on passive xovers

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

i was seeing how i was going to get signal from the tweet xover to the mid driver, but the Dayton inouts have double posts, so i could use that as a passthru to piggyback the tweet onto it


i pm'd keep_hope_alive about that and he told me how much room there is between the grill and the speaker hole, but i cant remember what that number was, i have it in my inbox still tho, so im good there

those look pretty! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif what would i use to cover them up? I dont see any protective cases like im used to seeing on passive xovers

You will want to just do two runs of wire, one to the mid one to the tweeter and they are connected on the same amp channel terminal. Dont piggyback anything.

I'd just tape em up with electrical tape and hide them somewhere.

 

[youdoofus]

You will want to just do two runs of wire, one to the mid one to the tweeter and they are connected on the same amp channel terminal. Dont piggyback anything.
I'd just tape em up with electrical tape and hide them somewhere.

whats wrong with just running one run from the amp and using the circled terminal to make a shorter run to the tweeter xover?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

whats wrong with just running one run from the amp and using the circled terminal to make a shorter run to the tweeter xover?

they are applying the same filter so your tweet gets a low pass filtered as a well so literally your tweets wont play anything. Eventually when you get an active capable head unit, you'll still need dedicated runs as well so you are prepping for the future as well. this will save you a lot of time in the future, trust me.

 

[youdoofus]

they are applying the same filter so your tweet gets a low pass filtered as a well so literally your tweets wont play anything. Eventually when you get an active capable head unit, you'll still need dedicated runs as well so you are prepping for the future as well. this will save you a lot of time in the future, trust me.

If I couple off the input side, it won't filter the run to the tweeter. I'm only trying to avoid doing another run from the amp because I live in south Dakota and its flippin cold here lol we had a rather odd warm day yesterday which is why I did the amp install. I do plan on going active, but in a warmer month lol

 

[youdoofus]

You should go vote for my system on the Steve Meade forum so I'll have a better chance to win the electrical upgrade kit lmao!!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If I couple off the input side, it won't filter the run to the tweeter. I'm only trying to avoid doing another run from the amp because I live in south Dakota and its flippin cold here lol we had a rather odd warm day yesterday which is why I did the amp install. I do plan on going active, but in a warmer month lol

Yeah i guess for now, just means more work later.

 

[youdoofus]

Yeah i guess for now, just means more work later.

im ok with that because cold $ucks

 

[youdoofus]

Yeah i guess for now, just means more work later.

thank you very much for all the help and suggestions man!!