Running Active!

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

Okay I have DLS components and I love them, but my headunit has a 3 way crossover, so I can run active. I would run my comps active, but their only 50rms each (mid/tweet) and my amp does 100x4 @ 4 ohms @ 12v, and I have a good electrical system. So power is a little too much for the DLS, so I was thinking about selling my comps, and getting a nice mid and tweet.

So I was on partsexpress looking at mid, and most are 8 ohm, so with my amp doing more that rated power, I am sure it can do a 8 ohm load correct? And what kind of power can I see @ 8 ohms.

I was thinking of this set, didnt see any reviews but I heard good things about Peerless:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-127

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-578

Click to read more...

 

[cj407]

or you could turn the gains down on the amp and keep the comps you currently have...????

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

or you could turn the gains down on the amp and keep the comps you currently have...????

I could, but really want to do something a little bit different. Thing is with my amps power, why not get a mid that can handle a good amount of power.

 

[WrenchGuy 10+ year member]

I'd play with crossover points and see what your current setup can do.

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

Thing is with my amps power, why not get a mid that can handle a good amount of power.

More power is not always the solution //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[bigaudiofanati2 10+ year member]

I agree you might be very happy with your current setup after going active.

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

I'd play with crossover points and see what your current setup can do.

well if thats the case, then what should i set my mids and tweets to, i know the passive crossover is set at 4500, so i should start from there. i have these settings available:

front hpf and rear lpf - 1.6khz to 16khz

rear hpf - 31.5hz to 200hz

and slopes - -18, -12, -6db

More power is not always the solution //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

True

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Okay I have DLS components and I love them, but ... power is a little too much for the DLS, so I was thinking about selling my comps, and getting a nice mid and tweet.

You love your speakers because you have too much power? And the solution to this problem to get rid of them and buy something "nice"?

so with my amp doing more that rated power, I am sure it can do a 8 ohm load correct?

Your amp will never be happier.

And what kind of power can I see @ 8 ohms

Basically irrelevant.

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

You love your speakers because you have too much power? And the solution to this problem to get rid of them and buy something "nice"?


Your amp will never be happier.

Basically irrelevant.

I love my speakers because being passive the still sound amazing, but of course active is always better, just requires more work. And ED amps are underrated and always go more power.

So running 8 ohms is okay, i noticed some of the mids are 6 ohms, so either way it will work.

Whats with the last comment

 

[RowJoe 10+ year member]

Anyone know how those HDS woofers fare versus the CSX 6.5" on PE?

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

CSX was the older car version I believe, before Peerless made the HDS.

I've used these mids before, for about two years actually. Fantastic mids, especially at that price. Midrange is excellent and usable to about 3.2kHz, midbass was fair but could play down to 63hz, needed some EQ to get some output, however.

It's irrelevant, because generally 8ohm drivers are more efficient.

If you have a 4 ohm speaker rated @ 2.83V and an 8ohm speaker rated at 2.83V, the 4 ohm driver is actually getting 2 watts, where the 8 ohm is only getting 1. If they are rated say at 90db @2.83V the 8ohm driver is more efficient, because it only takes 1 watt to have that efficiency. Since everyone says that doubling power is a theoretical 3DB gain, then the 4ohm driver would only be rated @ 87DBs @ 1 watt, instead of 90@ 2 watts.

 

[RowJoe 10+ year member]

I JUST got some Mach MLI-65s... but dang these HDS woofers look hella nice and they're cheap. Hmm...

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

CSX was the older car version I believe, before Peerless made the HDS.
I've used these mids before, for about two years actually. Fantastic mids, especially at that price. Midrange is excellent and usable to about 3.2kHz, midbass was fair but could play down to 63hz, needed some EQ to get some output, however.

It's irrelevant, because generally 8ohm drivers are more efficient.

If you have a 4 ohm speaker rated @ 2.83V and an 8ohm speaker rated at 2.83V, the 4 ohm driver is actually getting 2 watts, where the 8 ohm is only getting 1. If they are rated say at 90db @2.83V the 8ohm driver is more efficient, because it only takes 1 watt to have that efficiency. Since everyone says that doubling power is a theoretical 3DB gain, then the 4ohm driver would only be rated @ 87DBs @ 1 watt, instead of 90@ 2 watts.

Ah, I am totally new to active, so your saying you have this specific mid, or something similar!

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

Ah, I am totally new to active, so your saying you have this specific mid, or something similar!

I used to use them. Pulled them when I went 3-way because I wanted more ouptut down low (below 50hz) and these couldn't do it.

However, in a 2-way stage, a nice large format tweeter, mated with these would be a nice combo. I say large format, because you want something that can play down to your crossover point, without breakup; or possibly below your x-over point.

The Vifa XT25 (large formats) are an excellent choice, but they need to be completely on axis for good response.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

is there something specific that you'd like to achieve by going active?