Replacing factory speakers - what ohms...?

[pologuy 10+ year member]

I am looking to replace the factory speakers in a 2014 Ford/Lincoln that has a factory amp.

The factory 1" tweeters are 8 ohms, 25 watts; the mid-range 3 1/2" are 8 ohms, 25 watts; the 5x7 are 4 ohms, 50 watts.

What effects will replacing the speakers with lower ohms have?

The JBL Stadium speakers I am looking at that fit are all 2.5 ohms.

Thanks!

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[BCotrell]

you don’t want want to do that. A higher impedance increases the draw from the amp and could damage your factory amp. Specifically going 8 ohm factory all the way to 2 ohm for some speaker

why do you want to replace the drivers? Are they blown?Your factory drivers may be rated at 25watts max but optimized for a much lower continuous output (say 12watts). That said the actual rms power of your amp will not bring any aftermarket drivers to proper life.

FYI, in many cases the presence of a factory amp simply allowed the manufacturer to separate the power supply from all the gadgetry cooked into factory headunits (even 2014) and save money from having a monster all in one unit while still be able to promote a bagillion speakers sound system


I assume each of those speakers each feed directly into the factory amp like Which in that case you’ll want to match the factory speaker impedance.

lots of good 6.5 4Ohm options and an easy transition from 5x7 You should incorporate a set of these into your upgrade

5X7"/6x8" to 6.5" Adapter

MDF Speaker Adapter Size Information: Small: 5.125" I.D. Medium: 5.375" I.D. Large: 5.625" I.D. Extra Large: 5.75" I.D. Sold as a pair.

www.soundmekanix.com

parts express can defintely be your friend on raw drivers should speaker replacement be your final action but if your state your specific vehicle and goals then it’s easier to help up front than helping you chase mediocrity and money poorly spent afterwards

 

[pologuy 10+ year member]

Thanks for the reply!

The car is a 2014 Lincoln MKS - with the THXII audio system with 16 speakers (including 10" subwoofer) and 14-channel amplifier with 700 watts of maximum power (per specs.)

you don’t want want to do that. A higher impedance increases the draw from the amp and could damage your factory amp. Specifically going 8 ohm factory all the way to 2 ohm for some speaker

So by going from the factory 8 ohms to the aftermarket 2.5 (or even 4) ohms - wouldn't that decrease the draw from the factory amp...?

I assume each of those speakers each feed directly into the factory amp like Which in that case you’ll want to match the factory speaker impedance.

So I need to find 8 ohm tweeters and 8 ohm 3 1/2" mid-range speakers...?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the reply!

The car is a 2014 Lincoln MKS - with the THXII audio system with 16 speakers (including 10" subwoofer) and 14-channel amplifier with 700 watts of maximum power (per specs.)



So by going from the factory 8 ohms to the aftermarket 2.5 (or even 4) ohms - wouldn't that decrease the draw from the factory amp...?



So I need to find 8 ohm tweeters and 8 ohm 3 1/2" mid-range speakers...?

higher ohms is less power, lower ohms will force the amp to produce more power, if you go below the minimum safe impedance of the amp, it'll blow or catch on fire.

A good chance swapping speakers wont do anything, actually has a higher chance of harming your overall sound quality than helping because the had unit and all the built in tuning is specific for your current speakers, AKA specific crossover points and EQ curves To make up for the cheap speakers they use. Aftermarkets were made to be used with a relatively flat signal, however when you combine the stock boosted signal with aftermarket speakers you gonna get a big nasty pile of sh*t for sound. You are using a custom tuned signal made for different speakers on other speakers, you are literally playing the lottery, one in a million chance of you making a switch and it sounds good. Most people that just make a speaker swap dont really gain anything, in most cases on this forum they all lost major sound quality unless they couple the upgrade with a DSP/head unit upgrade with 100+ watts of amplification per driver and really heavy door sound deadening and acoustical treatments along with a really good audiophile tune on the DSP(digital sound processor)

 

[BCotrell]

Thanks for the reply!

The car is a 2014 Lincoln MKS - with the THXII audio system with 16 speakers (including 10" subwoofer) and 14-channel amplifier with 700 watts of maximum power (per specs.)



So by going from the factory 8 ohms to the aftermarket 2.5 (or even 4) ohms - wouldn't that decrease the draw from the factory amp...?



So I need to find 8 ohm tweeters and 8 ohm 3 1/2" mid-range speakers...?

No, it’s increases draw. And yes you would match impedance (ohms rating) of the factory speakers. Not really sure what the impact a front door speaker swap is going to do for your audio since it’s a pretty extravagant factory system. Overall what are you looking to accomplish. If you have the itch to just replace speakers there may not be a positive impact on the results of your efforts ( both money and time spent)

what do you want to accomplish. (Answer....by replacing my door Speakers I was hoping to ....)

 

[BCotrell]

higher ohms is less power, lower ohms will force the amp to produce more power, if you go below the minimum safe impedance of the amp, it'll blow or catch on fire.

A good chance swapping speakers wont do anything, actually has a higher chance of harming your overall sound quality than helping because the had unit and all the built in tuning is specific for your current speakers, AKA specific crossover points and EQ curves To make up for the cheap speakers they use. Aftermarkets were made to be used with a relatively flat signal, however when you combine the stock boosted signal with aftermarket speakers you gonna get a big nasty pile of sh*t for sound. You are using a custom tuned signal made for different speakers on other speakers, you are literally playing the lottery, one in a million chance of you making a switch and it sounds good. Most people that just make a speaker swap dont really gain anything, in most cases on this forum they all lost major sound quality unless they couple the upgrade with a DSP/head unit upgrade with 100+ watts of amplification per driver and really heavy door sound deadening and acoustical treatments along with a really good audiophile tune on the DSP(digital sound processor)

I don’t have the clout here to say what he just said but yess!!!!everything he just said

 

[pologuy 10+ year member]

what do you want to accomplish. (Answer....by replacing my door Speakers I was hoping to ....)

The factory sound system is just "OK"... certainly not what I would expect from a "16 speaker, 700 watt system with a 10" subwoofer", etc...

I am not expecting a "wow" or night and day difference - just something "better" sounding than what is there now.

I don't need a competition or audiophile sound system - just something that I can listen to and enjoy.

So I was just thinking of changing out all of the speakers - and disconnecting the 10" sub from the factory amp - and adding a 10" aftermarket sub connected to its own aftermarket amp.

There is a 1" tweeter, a 3 1/2" mid-range, and a 5"x7" woofer for each of the 4 seating positions that I would replace.

 

[BCotrell]

You could do those three up front and subs and skip the rear doors altogether....not going to improve your soundstage. Alternatively you could go 2 way with a tweeter and a 6.5. Either way You’ll need signal de-equalization for all the oem signals coming from the factory that you will be using. A 3 way Comp set with passive crossover will be expensive....raw drivers of independent channels will give you better tuning and be less expensive.

you want to keep your factory hu? Still have to get a signal de-equalizing dsp and amps

 

[pologuy 10+ year member]

You could do those three up front and subs and skip the rear doors altogether....not going to improve your soundstage. Alternatively you could go 2 way with a tweeter and a 6.5. Either way You’ll need signal de-equalization for all the oem signals coming from the factory that you will be using. A 3 way Comp set with passive crossover will be expensive....raw drivers of independent channels will give you better tuning and be less expensive.

you want to keep your factory hu? Still have to get a signal de-equalizing dsp and amps

So I won't lose a lot by just doing the front and not the back...?

You really can't change out the factory head unit in the MKS...

 

[BCotrell]

So I won't lose a lot by just doing the front and not the back...?

You really can't change out the factory head unit in the MKS...

By focusing on a clear and crisp front You will spend less money on extra speakers and achieve better sound potential so long as the dsp has good tuning/eq features, welcome to the jungle my man.

Ideal is a dsp to de-equalize the signal from the factory Amp because you will still be tapping in after the factory amp for the most complete signal possible. You can find quality inexpensive amps to run out the dsp But dsp’s for that many channels aren’t cheap. Audison bit one comes to mind...$750 is a grip though. Maybe someone else can recommend a dsp with de-eq capabilities for less. I don’t think the Dayton de-eq’s