renault laguna sondsystem

I'm telling you your terminology and wording is bad I know you know what you're talking about you just not wording it right.Multimeter do measure continuous and rms power consumption but you are correct that they do not measure harmonic distortion they do have meters that measure it and you don't need a scope but it's awesome to have one.
its the AMM-1 like the first screenshot i put in, OP does not have something of that calibre, he has a typical multi-meter that measures AC volts. I can get over 70 volts at 1 ohm on a 3.5k amp but is that necessarily clean? NOPE. No amount of wording can get through to his head that his measurements are irrelevant and his amp is Overrated but he refuses to believe so and thinks his amp actually does rated and sets his amps that way. I'm sure even you know the dangers of that. Hence the multi-meter method of gain setting is EXTREMELY flawed in more ways than one. You got noobs like this thinking they properly set their amps and that their amps is doing rated power.

 
its the AMM-1 like the first screenshot i put in, OP does not have something of that calibre, he has a typical multi-meter that measures AC volts. I can get over 70 volts at 1 ohm on a 3.5k amp but is that necessarily clean? NOPE. No amount of wording can get through to his head that his measurements are irrelevant and his amp is Overrated but he refuses to believe so and thinks his amp actually does rated and sets his amps that way. I'm sure even you know the dangers of that. Hence the multi-meter method of gain setting is EXTREMELY flawed in more ways than one. You got noobs like this thinking they properly set their amps and that their amps is doing rated power.
the universe has its way of working things out. i just want you to use the correct wording that way peoole understand thr difference from rms power and thd.

power analizers make oscpoes look like 8bit sound as compared to 32 bit sounds we have now.

rms is calculated. typically when we say rms we are talking voltage averaging..

 

---------- Post added at 03:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

 

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you should be asking questions.
 
Now do you want to ******* honest explanation or do you want to still spit off ******** that you don't understand? 

---------- Post added at 05:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:48 PM ----------

 

whats cold? it go into the mid 50s and got back up to 70 in one **** day. lol
Mid 50s for lows and mid 80s for highs here.

 
U get 20 pm's per day? Lol...I doubt that. Your not that popular on this forum.
sorry i have 3 pm's to answer., again it's because u a a*s to everyone for no reason i'f i'm talking to someone on thread it ain't your business but u run your mouth anyway.. u just a play ground bully and peeps are sick of your mouth

 
I told ya they power hungry. i think the pioneer pressured better...........
it's pushing that sub pretty good man.. what'd u mean pressured better?, old box had smaller port so it did have more port air velocity fs

 
sorry i have 3 pm's to answer., again it's because u a a*s to everyone for no reason i'f i'm talking to someone on thread it ain't your business but u run your mouth anyway.. u just a play ground bully and peeps are sick of your mouth
If you would stop telling everyone bad info then people would leave you alone.

 
multi meter does not tell real RMS at all. You dont even have an oscilloscope to actually monitor how the signal actually looks. You just look at a voltage number and try to do math but you have ZERO clue on if the power is clean. You dont have a proper amplifier dyno. Multi meter is not a tool that measures actual rms. I dont understand what part of this you do not understand lmao.
Oscilloscope_sine_square.jpg
multimeter give a voltage number that can get me perty close to the power that a want the formula works just see the video, the guy tune the amp to 300 by multimeter and after that i does a dyno test and its around 330 its not on poin but its very good

talking about clipping, its possible to detect clipping be hear if u cant do it sorry for that, but i can, so i know my power is clean, no clipping!

its not exact science but it get me close

 
weatherstrip foam tape everywhere that has hard surfaces that might touch eachother will get rid of your rattles.
i think of that but the trunk door and trunk window has a nice seel on it and has no metal to metal contact, the only thing i can do is tight the door and window latch to remove any slack but after that the door and window will become misaligned with the rest of the car and i dont want to mess up the car lines

 
i think of that but the trunk door and trunk window has a nice seel on it and has no metal to metal contact, the only thing i can do is tight the door and window latch to remove any slack but after that the door and window will become misaligned with the rest of the car and i dont want to mess up the car lines
Any kind of surface that touches another surface will rattle.

 
multimeter give a voltage number that can get me perty close to the power that a want the formula works just see the video, the guy tune the amp to 300 by multimeter and after that i does a dyno test and its around 330 its not on poin but its very good
talking about clipping, its possible to detect clipping be hear if u cant do it sorry for that, but i can, so i know my power is clean, no clipping!

its not exact science but it get me close
The guy that tuned it with that used an amp that actually was dyno'd on the amp dyno to do true power. Your amp company is notorious for not making true power. all the boss 5000 watt amps claiming 2500 rms amps only made at best 900 watts on the amp dyno same with the boss 1100 watt amp claiming 800 rms and only making 162 watts. Whatever amp the guy used in the video you watched was an amp that made true power. so you cannnot put those two and two together and think your amp makes anywhere over 400 watts of clean power. It doesnt work that way. Unless you actually put an amp dyno onto your amp, you'll never see its true clean rms power.

 
i allready see that that was what gave the idea about the foam rings but for me they not for seeling betwen door and dor panel, for me i have to do it betwen door panel and dor cuze my speaker is at door panel
The foam rings are not the important thing here. The other video about making your whole door into a proper speaker enclosure is the main idea here.

i think of that but the trunk door and trunk window has a nice seel on it and has no metal to metal contact, the only thing i can do is tight the door and window latch to remove any slack but after that the door and window will become misaligned with the rest of the car and i dont want to mess up the car lines
not nice enough if you still have those kinds of rattle. Literally every rattle you have is from hard surfaces rubbing up against each other Instead of arguing against it, actually find where those surfaces are and DECOUPLE it, thats proper car audio rattle treatment 101. Or your can be hard headed against it and keep your rattle trap going.

 
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