renault laguna sondsystem

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my sound system at the moment is this:

head unit

pioneer avh1400dvd

speakers (looking for upgrade)

4 alpine type g 5-1/4" (13cm) 200w max 50 rms

speakers amp

power stryke ps1200 4x300w max (i think around 4x120 rms)

subs

2x pioneer ts-w308d2 (dvc 2 ohms)

1400w max 400rms

sub amp

boss onyx mx1800.1

1800 W MAX Power 1 Channel

1350 W X 1 RMS 2 ohm

675 W X 1 RMS 4 ohm

Class A/B

the box and all the instal was made by me

tha box is a single box split at the midle

16mm mdf glooed and screwed

silicone sealed inside and 2 layers of bedliner

around 1.9 cubic feat (53litres) each chamber

ported box 2 dls bp110 flared

tune to around 34hz

durins instal

finish amp instal

subs

Click to read more...

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

hey man thats a nice box.. we don't like the boss amps, they only do about 20% the power they claim to we've seen the test., idk the other amp.. my last sub was a pioneer 3003 champ pro 12 (just took it out 2 weeks ago, i loved it) if u can upgrade amps i highly recommend u get the 3003 subs, even 1 ported with 900rms or so may be louder than 2 u have now.. we can help u find better equipment, problem is always shipping cost from here to other country.. u can look at my gallery to see some equipment i've had

 

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thank man, its my first box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

all of my equipment is used exept the 4 doors speakers.... here the car audio stuff is very expensive cuze in my contry we have 23% tax and if i buy outside i have to pay shipping and at the end is the same...

for a good sub amp its like one month pay check...

this is not for competicion or something like that i have just cuze i love the bass

i cant put all of my monney on the sound //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

this boss is not that bad, i use a formula to set my gain by voltage, (voltage= square root of target rms power x registence (ohms)) in my case i want +/- 400 rms at 2 ohms, so i did 400x2 = 800 square root of 800 is +/- 28v

the boss is puting out that at 40% gain with a bit off bassbost (30%) so it maybe puts out close to 800 rms at 2 ohms if it make something like that i think is not that bad , rigth?

tomorow if i had the time i will test it at 100% gain no bassboost and see whats the voltage and revers the formula to se how much power it makes (voltage x 2 / resistance)

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

no never go above 60% gain just turn bass boost down some.. yeah it ***** how high stuff in is other countries and shipping is so expensive.. here u can get a pretty nice 15" sub and amp for $$600 or so..

 

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$600 the is low? its what i make in a moth... i think the problem is low minimum wage here //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif its ridiculous iow

i will go 100% just for test sub disconected test tone 50hz

i was thinking at making a new tune at the amp give a bit more gain and take out the bass boost... maybe tomorow i do a test so we know whats the "real" max power of the boss and after that i set the gain, i think that the gain wiil stay maybe at 55% depending of the voltage, i dont want much more than 400 rms going to the subs, dont like to ouver power speakers....

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

thank man, its my first box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

all of my equipment is used exept the 4 doors speakers.... here the car audio stuff is very expensive cuze in my contry we have 23% tax and if i buy outside i have to pay shipping and at the end is the same...

for a good sub amp its like one month pay check...

this is not for competicion or something like that i have just cuze i love the bass

i cant put all of my monney on the sound //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

this boss is not that bad, i use a formula to set my gain by voltage, (voltage= square root of target rms power x registence (ohms)) in my case i want +/- 400 rms at 2 ohms, so i did 400x2 = 800 square root of 800 is +/- 28v

the boss is puting out that at 40% gain with a bit off bassbost (30%) so it maybe puts out close to 800 rms at 2 ohms if it make something like that i think is not that bad , rigth?

tomorow if i had the time i will test it at 100% gain no bassboost and see whats the voltage and revers the formula to se how much power it makes (voltage x 2 / resistance)

Here's the big flaw in your logic. If the amp is only does 200 actual watts and you set the gain for 800 watts that means you are well beyond clipping and can burn up your coils eventually with dirty power because you are forcing the amp to make power it cannot realistically make. Basic rule for you to follow is, if you turn the setup up higher and stops getting louder, you are past clipping, turn it down a few notches.

here's what a 1100 watt boss amp does on a proper amplifier dyno which tests for true RMS. which claims 825 watts RMS.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

$600 the is low? its what i make in a moth... i think the problem is low minimum wage here //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif its ridiculous iow
i will go 100% just for test sub disconected test tone 50hz

i was thinking at making a new tune at the amp give a bit more gain and take out the bass boost... maybe tomorow i do a test so we know whats the "real" max power of the boss and after that i set the gain, i think that the gain wiil stay maybe at 55% depending of the voltage, i dont want much more than 400 rms going to the subs, dont like to ouver power speakers....

you are WAAAAY underpowering the speakers and overdriving the amp into clipping and distortion with dirty power which will kill speakers way faster than actually overpowering with clean undistorted power.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

also with the multi-meter method, its completely flawed in a sense you are using a 0 db test tone to set the gain, Your music is not 0 db test tones, most rock music is in the -15 to -12 db recording levels, rap/hip hop/electronic/edm is more around -10 to -5 db. Most test tones you get off on the internet is 0 db which means you are way undergained for the music you want to listen to, hence why you havent blown your setup yet if you used a 0 db test tone to set your gains.

The more professional and safe way to set gains is to monitor temperature/heat of both the sub's dust cap and amp heat sink. Along with the rule, if it stops getting louder back it down.

Room temperature to mildy warm = good

hot to the touch or hotter = back it down

cold = you have a lot more left in the tank.

Also it might be hard for you to believe that boss as a company is a lying sack of sh*t that will completely lie on their power ratings and numbers to fool noobs and make a quick dollar, but yes they are lying about the power output and even though it feels loud to you, you need to realize you dont need much power to get to get loud, the enclosure itself gets you loud even on 50 to 100 actual watts which is more likely what you are seeing in real world wattage after impedance/box rise which is unavoidable physics in car audio where even if you are wired to 1 ohm, you'll see 2 to 4 ohm power if you actually clamp test your amp for true rms with a clamp meter.

There's a lot more science to this than what manufacturers label their amps man. But honestly as long as you set the gains right and let the equipment last long and you are satisfied with it, then its all good man. If you ever do want to upgrade in the far future, your amps should be the first thing on the list. An amp that actual 800-1000 rms will completely blow your socks off.

However if you set the gains dirty with your current amp eventually itll lead to voice coil degradation and your subs will eventually fail depending on how much heat the distortion generates, just be careful man.

 

[dragon.breath 10+ year member]

Here is another clue about that amplifier. It has a 25 amp fuse. Ohms law states that volts X amps =watts. So 12 volts X 25 amps = 300 watts. So you have 300 watts of input energy, then you realize that class a/b amplifiers are only around 50% to 60% efficient. So the amplifier is only capable of 150 to maybe 200 watts rms at the most. More than that would blow the fuse.

 

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Here's the big flaw in your logic. If the amp is only does 200 actual watts and you set the gain for 800 watts that means you are well beyond clipping and can burn up your coils eventually with dirty power because you are forcing the amp to make power it cannot realistically make. Basic rule for you to follow is, if you turn the setup up higher and stops getting louder, you are past clipping, turn it down a few notches.
here's what a 1100 watt boss amp does on a proper amplifier dyno which tests for true RMS. which claims 825 watts RMS.

do u understood what i was trying to say? i was saying that will check the max power just out of curiosity, just to see how much it can made, i do not say clean power, i do not run pass clipping...

what i will do is test max power even after cliping cuz i will do this with subs disconected, after that i check power "at" clipping by ear whit that 50hz tone ant set my gan acording to clipping and output power to subs rms

at the moment im under clipping at 28v thats around 400 watts so is not that bad i think

 

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you are WAAAAY underpowering the speakers and overdriving the amp into clipping and distortion with dirty power which will kill speakers way faster than actually overpowering with clean undistorted power.

underpowering the subs? i have 2 dvc subs wired series paralel at 2 ohm (checked) 400 rms each one, power do not add um rigth? so they are 2 but still 400 rms nao 800 rigth?

if im feeding about 400 watts clean power, im underpowering?

 

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also with the multi-meter method, its completely flawed in a sense you are using a 0 db test tone to set the gain, Your music is not 0 db test tones, most rock music is in the -15 to -12 db recording levels, rap/hip hop/electronic/edm is more around -10 to -5 db. Most test tones you get off on the internet is 0 db which means you are way undergained for the music you want to listen to, hence why you havent blown your setup yet if you used a 0 db test tone to set your gains.

The more professional and safe way to set gains is to monitor temperature/heat of both the sub's dust cap and amp heat sink. Along with the rule, if it stops getting louder back it down.

Room temperature to mildy warm = good

hot to the touch or hotter = back it down

cold = you have a lot more left in the tank.

Also it might be hard for you to believe that boss as a company is a lying sack of sh*t that will completely lie on their power ratings and numbers to fool noobs and make a quick dollar, but yes they are lying about the power output and even though it feels loud to you, you need to realize you dont need much power to get to get loud, the enclosure itself gets you loud even on 50 to 100 actual watts which is more likely what you are seeing in real world wattage after impedance/box rise which is unavoidable physics in car audio where even if you are wired to 1 ohm, you'll see 2 to 4 ohm power if you actually clamp test your amp for true rms with a clamp meter.

There's a lot more science to this than what manufacturers label their amps man. But honestly as long as you set the gains right and let the equipment last long and you are satisfied with it, then its all good man. If you ever do want to upgrade in the far future, your amps should be the first thing on the list. An amp that actual 800-1000 rms will completely blow your socks off.

However if you set the gains dirty with your current amp eventually itll lead to voice coil degradation and your subs will eventually fail depending on how much heat the distortion generates, just be careful man.

yes i know that none of the music that we play is at 0 db i do produce music to so i know that tecnical stuff lol and cuze of that i know i have headroom for some power spyke that can happen e i will not blew up my speakes, and for exp i set up my gais at vol 30 and dayly i never pass 25/26 again more headroom e never go to that point "dam blew up my sub"

 

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Here is another clue about that amplifier. It has a 25 amp fuse. Ohms law states that volts X amps =watts. So 12 volts X 25 amps = 300 watts. So you have 300 watts of input energy, then you realize that class a/b amplifiers are only around 50% to 60% efficient. So the amplifier is only capable of 150 to maybe 200 watts rms at the most. More than that would blow the fuse.

i do not care if it is 50% efecient if it gets me the clean power i want/need is ok, its not important to me that the amp said 1350 rms at 2 ohms and only pout out 600rms the important part for me is that i need 400 rms and the amp gets me 400 rms of clean power

 

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why is every one saying that i have to put my gains down and that im clipping? im not clipping guys, the power im putinng out in below clipping point, this et up is dayli use and now its about 1 year old in my car and zero problems my volume is allwas perty high so if i was clipping probably i blew up a sub by now... but is realy nice to change opinions and get the knolege from other that are way deep in this than me...

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

why is every one saying that i have to put my gains down and that im clipping? im not clipping guys, the power im putinng out in below clipping point, this et up is dayli use and now its about 1 year old in my car and zero problems my volume is allwas perty high so if i was clipping probably i blew up a sub by now... but is realy nice to change opinions and get the knolege from other that are way deep in this than me...

Wow. You got it man. Enjoy