Remote wire only getting 2-3 volts from loc

[20112sscamaro]

I have a jl 1000 amp and a Memphis mojo 1000 sub wired to 2 ohms one day the amp just stopped working I’ve tried everything I know new amp new loc new rcas new sub I’ve used a jumper wire from pos to remote turns the amp on but still no sound I’m grounded on chassis and the positive and negative from the loc are wired in with the pos and neg in the amp I have no clue what’s going on hell would be greatly appreciated.

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[JasoninDLH]

How did you tap into the speaker wires? I‘m guessing a plastic connector like a Posi-Tap or Scotchlok? Get rid of those and connect a different way.

This is a good way (I would add two zip ties for stress relief on the one side with the new wire and one ob the other side to make certain the Super 33+ doesn’t peel away. Although, I never use this method since I always cut some strands and it’s time consuming…



I personally like to use butt connectors. Simple, relatively quick, and durable. They make the three way butt connectors, but I opt for the two sided ones. Just make certain you add a bit of the new wire to both sides of the connector.

You can see both wires going into the connector by my thumb (on the photo below). The other side I cut a piece of the new wire, stripped a bit, and added to the connector as a filler so that my crimp will work.

Note the Posi-Tap I removed in the background. I simply used that temporarily to make certain I had the correct wires and fired everything up prior to cutting the factory wires.

 

[20112sscamaro]

How did you tap into the speaker wires? I‘m guessing a plastic connector like a Posi-Tap or Scotchlok? Get rid of those and connect a different way.

This is a good way (I would add two zip ties for stress relief on the one side with the new wire and one ob the other side to make certain the Super 33+ doesn’t peel away. Although, I never use this method since I always cut some strands and it’s time consuming…



I personally like to use butt connectors. Simple, relatively quick, and durable. They make the three way butt connectors, but I opt for the two sided ones. Just make certain you add a bit of the new wire to both sides of the connector.

You can see both wires going into the connector by my thumb (on the photo below). The other side I cut a piece of the new wire, stripped a bit, and added to the connector as a filler so that my crimp will work.

Note the Posi-Tap I removed in the background. I simply used that temporarily to make certain I had the correct wires and fired everything up prior to cutting the factory wires.

View attachment 47338

I used butt connectors when I wired the system I’ve installed quite a few systems I’m just lost on why I’m losing power at the remote I’ve tried new wire new amp new sub new loc and I tested the sub in my other car and it worked fine one day the it just stopped putting sound out and I can’t find the problem

 

[JasoninDLH]

Sounds like you have a solid build. I was assuming you were using signal sensing on your LOC to turn everything on and simply weren’t getting a good connection at the speaker wires.

You actually ran a remote wire to 12v or are you using signal sensing through your LOC?

You don’t have the gain up so much that the amp is in protect mode, do you?

Does your amp have an internal fuse you blew? Is the amp completely fried? You tried a new amp and still no power for the new amp?!

I’m definitely curious as to what is happening….

 

[JasoninDLH]

You checked the main in-line fuse? And checked all connections at the battery?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

n my other car and it worked fine one day the it just stopped putting sound out and I can’t find the problem

Connect your phone to the amp via 3.5mm to RCA cable. If it works, the issue will be a radio signal. If you are using the OEM radio, you may need a load resistor to activate the radio output.

 

[20112sscamaro]

Sounds like you have a solid build. I was assuming you were using signal sensing on your LOC to turn everything on and simply weren’t getting a good connection at the speaker wires.

You actually ran a remote wire to 12v or are you using signal sensing through your LOC?

You don’t have the gain up so much that the amp is in protect mode, do you?

Does your amp have an internal fuse you blew? Is the amp completely fried? You tried a new amp and still no power for the new amp?!

I’m definitely curious as to what is happening….

I’m not sure internally but I did try a new amp and nothing I’m wired straight from the loc remote to the amp remote in

 

[20112sscamaro]

Connect your phone to the amp via 3.5mm to RCA cable. If it works, the issue will be a radio signal. If you are using the OEM radio, you may need a load resistor to activate the radio output.

I’m using a loc but it was working fine before on I have a OEM radio but nothing is wired to it the loc is wired to the rear speakers

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I’m using a loc but it was working fine before on I have a OEM radio but nothing is wired to it the loc is wired to the rear speakers

So the rear speakers are still wired. That rules out load resistor tactic. Option left is the phone test. If that works, it will be easier to diagnose the issue.

 

[20112sscamaro]

So the rear speakers are still wired. That rules out load resistor tactic. Option left is the phone test. If that works, it will be easier to diagnose the issue.

Sounds good I’m at work right now I’ll try when I’m home and update