2 DVC 4 ohm to mono block 1 ohm

Capttech

CarAudio.com Newbie
Picked up 2 12" Pioneer TS-A300D4 4-ohm DVC subs with 500W RMS n 1500W Peak. Got a KAC-9105D amp. What's gonna be the optimal way to wire these? Manual says RMS 500W per channel @ 4-ohms, or 900W @ 1-ohms stable (output regulated to 900 watts). Amp is mono but has 2 outputs that are internally wire together. I can find diagrams for 1 output from a mono amp for this set up, but not for 2 output from a mono amp. Should I just wire it as the 1 output digram and only use 1 output? Also figuring the 900W will be much better than the 500W since there are 2 speakers cutting the draw in half. Lmk if this is incorrect thinking.

Also have a Quantum Audio QB1000D that I cannot locate a manual for online anywhere that I could use, tho I think the Kenwood is a better amp (Class D vs Class A/B). Opinions welcome on that.

Thanks in advance
 
That quantum has pretty bad reviews.

I would use the Kenwood amp wired up as 1 ohm, and wire it at the terminals however is easier. It's "one terminal, with two securing points", in case you wanted to connect two wires as one. If your wire can fit in one, use one. If you want to or need to use two, use two.

The amp is only a mono amp/one channel. The amp isn't deciding the resistance. The speakers are drawing power at their resistance, then combined with how you wired it to the amp, the amp sees the end result. If you wire those speakers up as 1 ohm to the amp, then the amp will respond to the draw, by pushing out power at 1 ohm. If you wired em up as 2 ohm to the amp, then the amp, would push it out as 2 ohm. You then use a bass knob/potentiometer to tell the amp at what level. The amp pushes out the level, after the speakers (and wiring), tell it the resistance.
 
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OP
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Capttech

CarAudio.com Newbie
hmm, maybe I am overthinking this but lmk if I am incorrect with this;

The mono amp has 2 outputs that are in parellel, correct? If I go + to + and - to - on each sub alone, then run jumpers down to the enclosure terminals, then hook each terminal up to their own output on the amp, I would reach 1-ohm, correct?

Running the wiring as the diagram shows will require drilling holes in the box and filling them to stop airflow through them. Dual chamber port divided box so they'd have to go out of the back or add another set of terminals. If the above is correct, this saves all of this trouble.
 
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OP
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Capttech

CarAudio.com Newbie
There currently is way to connect the speakers in the box. To wire the subs together I would need to add holes to do so which was the purpose of my question. "Inside the box" is not an option currently. I have a ported box with divided chambers. Thinking I may add another set of terminals to the box to be the jumpers rather than 2 holes out the back with silicone. Otherwise I would have to drill through the 2 walls and the port divider to keep it all "internal". Even the internal backwall is not available due to the port baffles as seen in the pic below.

1676673647383.png
 

Coolhand20th

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So you are saying that middle wall of the port is solid all the way back to the back of the box? Gotta be a pre-fab box then. That solid wall going all the way back makes it a pita to wire then as you are saying. Just do it whichever way is the easiest all the way around with less work so the amp still sees a 1 ohm load. GL!
 
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I GOT YOU..

( https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp )


THIS:
4 ohm dvc subs.PNG


Is the same as this:

4 ohm dvc.PNG


Run each Pos to each one of the positive terminal mounts, and each neg to each of the negative terminal mounts. On the amp it's just one terminal block with two "wire inputs". It's that easy. (If you want to verify it, all you do is wire it up, like this bottom one, connect the wires together before putting them in the amp, and use a multimeter to test the resistance. If you test all 4 coils first, and all four are 4 ohm, then this will show you a 1 ohm load before you install it in the amp.

Connect the positive coil to the other positive coil. Connect the negative coil to the other negative coil, and then wire different coils (one pos, and one neg) to the terminal cup. Then wire the terminal cups directly to the amp.
 
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WIRING 1.PNG
 
OP
C

Capttech

CarAudio.com Newbie
Awesome, that's exactly what I was trying to say with my question when I was over thinking it. Got a voltmeter I was going to test to see if that would work. Ordered some terminals cups to install just in case it didn't.

Subs ended up being delayed due to weather. Hoping to have it all done tomorrow, will report back how I got it working.
 
OP
C

Capttech

CarAudio.com Newbie
Have had system hooked up for a week now and it sounds great, very impressed with these inexpensive subs. Wired up as HardofWhoring said and works as expected. I was able to verify that using both amp outputs would cause an additional parallel bringing the wiring from 2 ohm, down to 1 ohm to the amp via this internal bridge. Having hooked it up the other way of 1 ohm at the sub connection and using both outputs would have brought it down to 0.5 ohm which wouldn't have been stable for the amp. Using just 1 output would have been at 1 ohm still, but no holes needed in the box.

Now to dial in the setting so the bass properly makes it through the back seat wall into the cabin.

Thanks for all the inputs!
 

ThxOne

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There currently is way to connect the speakers in the box. To wire the subs together I would need to add holes to do so which was the purpose of my question. "Inside the box" is not an option currently. I have a ported box with divided chambers. Thinking I may add another set of terminals to the box to be the jumpers rather than 2 holes out the back with silicone. Otherwise I would have to drill through the 2 walls and the port divider to keep it all "internal". Even the internal backwall is not available due to the port baffles as seen in the pic below.

View attachment 47167
Tis the exact box I am using with my Punch P3 10's wired to 1ohm at the amp. I also have dual terminals on my mono amp. I wired each 4 ohm voice coil on each sub to a 2 ohm load together. I then ran that speakers positive and negative from the box to the amp on one pair of terminals and then the same from the other side of the box to the amp to the other two positive and negative terminals. 1 ohm load at the amp.
 
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