Read a TON from you guys. Hoping for some input please.

powerej
10+ year member

Junior Member
2001 F150 Extended Cab. Trying to keep it cheap b/c I'm a stingy ***** at the moment, but if this build turns out nice then I would like to continue upgrading and having fun.

Going for SQ than SPL (read this has more to do with the setup than the equipment?)

HU

Sony CDX-GT660UP -- Installed it already. Hope this was a good choice. Drive an hour to work and really needed something now, they had it at my local store.

Amp -- I see you guys suggest buying used from this site, any suggestions for the Fronts and Subs I've chosen? Would the ones below be enough for fronts and sub?

Hifonics ZRX1000.4 Audiopipe APSM-4080 AudioPipe AP1004 Cadence CSA1000.4

MB QUART DSC480 MB Quart ONX4.80

Front

Cadence CWM6

Rear

Aura 5700RPM

Sub

Sundown Audio E8v3 dual 4

Suggested Box = 0.5 to 0.75 ported tuned to 35 Hz (This sound good to you guys?)

Under rear seat dimensions =

Should I face them forwards or up?

"Most of the time enclosure tuning has far more effect than the sub itself."

"It's more a factor of enclosure than subwoofer in the end that determines the sound quality."

Wire

KnuKonceptz Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit

Audio Technix 4ga Gauge GA Flexible CCA Complete Amp Install Kit

Sound Deadening

SDS CLD and butyl rope.

"Dampen the door and door panel well, this is critical and important for good bass response and overall sound quality. Check to make sure there are no air leaks around the speakers."

Should I put sheet metal on the larger openings of the door?

"You might wanna cover that large opening on the inner doorshell along with any other holes to seal off the backwaves from the speaker."

Baffle for Components

"Cheep cutting board at least a 1/2" thick. Make the baffles as large as physically possible."

"I've always put down a strip of clear silicone sealant and then screwed the baffle down to the door. Then I go over all of the inside and outside corners where the baffle meets the door with silicone sealant. Keeps it very solid and airtight."

Should I cut out the stock door panels?

"Stock door panels are often screwing up clean clear dispersion: Do Not mount a speaker “far into” the door and then cover with the stock door panel, stock door grills always ruin good musical sound quality and musical detail and imaging."

Box Building

WinISD & RE Audio Box Calculator

 
I'll spare you the criticism on the equipment choices other than the subwoofer and enclosure ideas. When you're restricted to an underseat box in a truck this changes things a lot from a trunk vehicle. The RE Audio box calculator is useless for this application, in my opinion. You can get one of several premade sealed boxes, but if you want a ported box you need to get it custom made to match your subwoofer and listening preferences.

If you use a 4-channel amplifier with the intention of bridging the rear channels for a subwoofer you're almost always limited to 4 Ohms. That means a dual 4 Ohm sub is not ideal as you'd have to wire the coils to separate channels. It will work but I would only do it if there was no other option. You either need a separate mono amplifier for bass duties or you need to get a 4 Ohm or dual 2 Ohm subwoofer. If you get 2 subs you can do 2 dual 4 Ohm subs and have a final load of 4 Ohms.

 
NANO from SounDigital - Car Audio Classifieds

nano sound digitals for 159 shipped 6x6 inches on a 100x4 and 400rms at 2 or 1 ohm
Are these amps recommended for their performance or because they're "different" and cheap? You know there are many small amplifiers available with no mystery about them. I looked in that thread and it's not even determined if they sound good or make rated power. Also, that cooling fan is essential and if you haven't heard an amp with a fan that runs constantly you have no idea how distracting it can be. I will never run a fan cooled amp unless it only would come on when needed.

 
Are these amps recommended for their performance or because they're "different" and cheap? You know there are many small amplifiers available with no mystery about them. I looked in that thread and it's not even determined if they sound good or make rated power. Also, that cooling fan is essential and if you haven't heard an amp with a fan that runs constantly you have no idea how distracting it can be. I will never run a fan cooled amp unless it only would come on when needed.
I have ran fan cooled amps with no problem. I have also ran soundigital but not the nano with no problems

 
You can get one of several premade sealed boxes, but if you want a ported box you need to get it custom made to match your subwoofer and listening preferences.
I would love to make the custom made box. I actually really want to do this. Am I overstepping here and I should really really think about letting a professional build me one?
 
I have heard great things about the PPI Phantom 900.4 from you guys on this website. I am being cheap/want to work my way into things.

Trumpet. Thank you very much for helping me. Do you think it would be more wise to get a 2 channel for the fronts for now, one that is big enough I could turn the gain down and add better comps later? Then I could take my time on building a box and watch on here or ask you nice people to point me in the right direction for a used monoblock? BTW are those amps I chose not a good selection (besides the cadence)?

 
Is the SA E8v3 a bad choice for under rear seat truck applications?

Is my overall post/mindset going in the right direction? I have been reading the threads on this site and have been trying to inform my newb brain. It has only been a week, so please tell me if I am going wrong and maybe say YES! you bees doin something right! Thank you guys!

 
I think your approach is fine. there are many choices out there for various audio pieces. I avoid Sony head units - they are just terribly made. Kenwood eXcelon has a nice selection at all budgets.

sub placement will determine performance. under seat enclosures are usually poorly located to do much good. like putting a home sub in the middle of the room vs. the corner. while enclosure is important, placement determines performance.

 
Hmm I'm not following. I understand putting a home sub in the middle of a room is not ideal, but how does that analogy apply to this situation? If I downfire a sub, which is positioned on the passenger or driver side, then this placement will have poor performance? So, I should dismiss the idea of putting a subwoofer in my vehicle because for me the best place would be underneath the rear seat? I don't mean to be catty here, just feels like you are implying this.

Also, I told you the only thing I have purchased is my HU, which is a Sony head unit. Why did you feel the need to chime in about how "terribly made" they are?

Look. Your signature says, "have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM." I want to talk to that guy...

 
Hmm I'm not following. I understand putting a home sub in the middle of a room is not ideal, but how does that analogy apply to this situation? If I downfire a sub, which is positioned on the passenger or driver side, then this placement will have poor performance? So, I should dismiss the idea of putting a subwoofer in my vehicle because for me the best place would be underneath the rear seat? I don't mean to be catty here, just feels like you are implying this.
Also, I told you the only thing I have purchased is my HU, which is a Sony head unit. Why did you feel the need to chime in about

how "terribly made" they are?

Look. Your signature says, "have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM." I want to talk to that guy...
Because Sony head units are terribly made, it's his opinion on it and it's certainly not wrong. Didn't read everything, but did you have a budget in mind? I know you said you're going for SQ, but nothing you listed really lean towards SQ

 
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powerej

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