Raaaaaamat Heeeeelp!!!!

[MrBill04 10+ year member]

It gives a tutorial on the raammat site. the man said that a wire mess that is stiff is sufficient to cover holes, the cover with the raammat.

 

[zeuolaxxx 10+ year member]

lol... ok

 

[zeuolaxxx 10+ year member]

Then I will used the raamat to cover the holes

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

Then I will used the raamat to cover the holes

lol, nice ninja edit //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[xtremekustomz 10+ year member]

Definately seal the door panels if you are going to have a speaker in it. Cover the outer and inner skin and with ensolite if you can. Basically go by the raamat recommendations. I've got 5 layers on some parts of my floor and only 2 on other so do the tap test on it. And yes, that is fiberglass house insulation in the rear doors, no water gets in there and I don't have rear fill. Here is my truck that I did last December:

 

[zeuolaxxx 10+ year member]

the picture #4.. what is the pink thing? why you used it?.. I am planning to do 3 layer inner and 4 out.. only for the front doors.. if these will be enough?

 

[zeuolaxxx 10+ year member]

Today I clean my door.. But tomorrow I will work in it.. I will do 3 layer inner and 4 or 3 out.. it will be enough for an excellent sound?

 

[flakko 5,000+ posts]

holy crap xtreme...my eyes hurt from all that shineyness

 

[xtremekustomz 10+ year member]

That pink stuff if fiberglass house insulation. I used to to cut down on more of the sound inside the cab. No water goes into that area of the doors so I stuffed it in there. As for how many layers, do the tap test and listen. You want to hear a solid thud when you tap on it with your knuckle. Also, ensolite would be a good idea and maybe a deflex pad behind the speaker. Also make sure the speaker is on a very rigid surface.

 

[zeuolaxxx 10+ year member]

Yesterday I did the inner front doors it takes 4 hours.. It have 3 layers inner each doors..I have to say WoOoOoOw these stuff work.. Now my speaker sound really excellent and loud.. Today I will continue with 3 o 4 layer out side...

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I would never consider placing home-type fiberglass insulation in any vehicle I own. Each of those strands is like a mini tube, they love to catch and hold moisture. And not just from rain, even from simple condensation. If you must use that stuff, you should place it in a plastic bag, seal the bag, then stuff it in the cavity.

For filling cavities I try to use [expanding] closed cell foam. Better at blocking sound, and wont soak up and retain moisture. It also provides rigidiy to the surrounding panels once it sets up, unlike the pink stuff.

Never settle on just covering holes in your door with deadening mat. If you had a speaker box with a large hole in it, would you fix it by covering it with a layer or two of flexible mat? No, you'd screw a rigid piece of material to it for structural rigidity. If you use your doors for mids, large holes covered with mat will simply flap to the pressure changes. That's ghetto at best, performance altering and noise creating at worst. If you have substantial sized holes in your doors (more than a few inches across), use a rigid mat'l like wood or some form of rigid plastic to cover the holes. This will help strengthen the entire door and help reduce rattles even more. Once the hole is covered, then hit it with a layer of deadening mat.

 

[xtremekustomz 10+ year member]

I would never consider placing home-type fiberglass insulation in any vehicle I own. Each of those strands is like a mini tube, they love to catch and hold moisture. And not just from rain, even from simple condensation. If you must use that stuff, you should place it in a plastic bag, seal the bag, then stuff it in the cavity.
For filling cavities I try to use [expanding] closed cell foam. Better at blocking sound, and wont soak up and retain moisture. It also provides rigidiy to the surrounding panels once it sets up, unlike the pink stuff.

Never settle on just covering holes in your door with deadening mat. If you had a speaker box with a large hole in it, would you fix it by covering it with a layer or two of flexible mat? No, you'd screw a rigid piece of material to it for structural rigidity. If you use your doors for mids, large holes covered with mat will simply flap to the pressure changes. That's ghetto at best, performance altering and noise creating at worst. If you have substantial sized holes in your doors (more than a few inches across), use a rigid mat'l like wood or some form of rigid plastic to cover the holes. This will help strengthen the entire door and help reduce rattles even more. Once the hole is covered, then hit it with a layer of deadening mat.

To each his own //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I've never had a problem with it.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

To each his own //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I've never had a problem with it.

Yes I agree under many circumstances you can get away with it, but it can also lead to real problems. Which is why id never recommend it to anyone, especially when there is (imo) a better alternative. Im sure your truck is fine, and will be fine. Just something to keep in mind for your next project.

 

[AudioAnonymous 10+ year member]

to cover the holes does it have to be wood, or just plain deadener

deadener is fine. Use two layers. What I would do is put duct tape on the back side of where the hole is on the sticky part of the exposed matting. You don't have to cuz I'm sure it won't be loud enough to rip the matting like it did on my van.

 

[Brian_smith06 10+ year member]

to cover the wholes you could also use some plexi. but wood of course would be cheaper.