Quick question about soldering 0 gauge ring terminals

Just got my Cadence 0 gauge in the mail, still waiting for the copper ring terminals to come tomorrow. Anyways my question is, do I absolutely need a table vice when soldering the connection or is it just to be safe when using a torch?

What would be a good alternative to using a table vice for holding the 0 gauge wire?

 
Just got my Cadence 0 gauge in the mail, still waiting for the copper ring terminals to come tomorrow. Anyways my question is, do I absolutely need a table vice when soldering the connection or is it just to be safe when using a torch?
What would be a good alternative to using a table vice for holding the 0 gauge wire?
If you have a clamp take two brick and put the wire between them. I would clamp it in someway while doing the soldering. Honestly if you didn't want to solder you should have just gotten crimp terminals.

 
Just got my Cadence 0 gauge in the mail, still waiting for the copper ring terminals to come tomorrow. Anyways my question is, do I absolutely need a table vice when soldering the connection or is it just to be safe when using a torch?
What would be a good alternative to using a table vice for holding the 0 gauge wire?
If you have a clamp take two brick and put the wire between them. I would clamp it in someway while doing the soldering. Honestly if you didn't want to solder you should have just gotten crimp terminals.

 
Why dont you just go to Oreillys auto parts and pick up some crimp terminals? Put wire in, bash with hammer

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^^^^I cantever get images to post, anyone know whats wrong with my url?

 
I never said I didn't want to solder, just wondering the best way to do it without a table vice. Also the reason I don't use 0 gauge ring crimps is because I was told that soldering the wire to ring terminals provides better current flow than using ring crimps.

 
I never said I didn't want to solder, just wondering the best way to do it without a table vice. Also the reason I don't use 0 gauge ring crimps is because I was told that soldering the wire to ring terminals provides better current flow than using ring crimps.
well i dought there any current flow change between soldering it or using the tubular brass ring terminal for auto parts. Bust for solder just hit it with some vice grips

 
I never said I didn't want to solder, just wondering the best way to do it without a table vice. Also the reason I don't use 0 gauge ring crimps is because I was told that soldering the wire to ring terminals provides better current flow than using ring crimps.
well i dought there any current flow change between soldering it or using the tubular brass ring terminal from auto parts. But for solder just hit it with some vice grips

 
Hammer mechanics, sheesh! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

A properly done soldering job is pure peace of mind....no arcing possible, full amps passed with no added resistance, etc, etc.

Leave the crimp-on connectors for speaker wiring, and solder that big mofo

 
Just got my Cadence 0 gauge in the mail, still waiting for the copper ring terminals to come tomorrow. Anyways my question is, do I absolutely need a table vice when soldering the connection or is it just to be safe when using a torch?
What would be a good alternative to using a table vice for holding the 0 gauge wire?
Wanted to revisit this thread, and offer my apologies to the OP and the posters I jokingly called "hammer mechanics" but who are clearly more knowledgeable than I.

Since I have been working with AC for years, I have learned to despise crimp-on terminals. However, in discussing the 'solder vs/ crimp' issue as related to car audio and DC voltage with a very sharp friend, I have been set straight.

According to him, the characteristics of low DC voltage makes it prefer crimping, and the amount of solder required for larger gauge wires actually serves to increase the overall resistance. Granted, I doubt it would be by much, and it does offer additional strength and less opportunity for corrosion over time, but...

Embarrassed.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif

 
Wanted to revisit this thread, and offer my apologies to the OP and the posters I jokingly called "hammer mechanics" but who are clearly more knowledgeable than I.
Since I have been working with AC for years, I have learned to despise crimp-on terminals. However, in discussing the 'solder vs/ crimp' issue as related to car audio and DC voltage with a very sharp friend, I have been set straight.

According to him, the characteristics of low DC voltage makes it prefer crimping, and the amount of solder required for larger gauge wires actually serves to increase the overall resistance. Granted, I doubt it would be by much, and it does offer additional strength and less opportunity for corrosion over time, but...

Embarrassed.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif
Haha, we forgive you //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I just ended up soldering

 
Can't go wrong with solder! Just feels like a more secure connection + looks cleaner in my opinion. I still have to do alternator to battery positive //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Will I be fine not using a fuse/fuse block for a while? Also once I do end up buying a fuse, how many amps should I look at for 1/0 gauge Cadence wire?

 
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