Quick question about soldering 0 gauge ring terminals

not going to go into all the details of how it works, but, i can tell you from 15+ years of actual experience, that a bonded solder joint is still going to give you the best connection. the second best would be the complete interference (mechanically pressed) connection, were all strands are pressed into one solid piece, not crimped. keep in mind, this excludes crimping and the method of simply sticking cold wire in a solder-filled terminal. you need to properly tin the cable with solder, then solder the terminal to the wire. my prefered method is to tin the wire, crimp it, and then solder it. usually, just hanging off the counter with something heavy sitting on it. that way, there's no ugly marks from the vise, or vise-grips. i have repaired and replaced a shyt-ton of crimped cables, but only a couple soldered, and that was due to physical damage, such as broken strands at the terminal, or chafed/gouged/corroded wire.

 
Can't go wrong with solder! Just feels like a more secure connection + looks cleaner in my opinion. I still have to do alternator to battery positive //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Will I be fine not using a fuse/fuse block for a while? Also once I do end up buying a fuse, how many amps should I look at for 1/0 gauge Cadence wire?
Agreed on the solder!

Lots of folks run their entire Big Three and/or their whole system without a single fuse.

The debate for vs/ against seems to center around whether or not you're a risk-taker, i.e. fusing = insurance policy against anything 'bad' happening with wiring, allowing a short-to-ground to accept full current off the batt(s); or the "Nah, if I wreck I am gonna have more to worry about than pinched wires; I'll take my chances cause I don't wanna lose any 1/10 volts from current drop across fuse blocks" kinda attitude. And to each their own

Short term, I prolly wouldn't sweat it too much....

 
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