Questions about new system

[mliebs]

I have a 2017 Mustang GT and wanted to upgrade the system so I dropped it off at the shop today. The place I brought it too has been there forever and gets excellent reviews so I'm pretty confident it'll turn out pretty good. I know everyone has their favorite equipment but at my age I didn't feel like searching around trying to build the ultimate system, I just wanted something that works. In the 90's and early 2000's I had a quite a few systems and always ran Zapco, PPI, or tube drivers so this is new uncharted territory for me. Below is what I'm going with.

Factory head unit

JL Audio Fix 86 and TWK 88

JL Audio HD 600/4 for the front

JL Audio XD 600/1 for the sub

Hertz Mille 163.3 pros

JL Audio 12 W6 (sealed)

0 gauge power wire the back for distribution

Dynamat on both doors

Here's where my questions come in. I originally purchased the 600/4 to have it bridged so the components would get 300 watts each. I know it's double the rating but I figured it's better to have too much power and not use it that need more but don't have it. The installer said he planned on running the system active instead of passive but with the four channel amp that would leave the mid range and tweeter still using the passive crossover. At this point will I benefit from the active setup or just go with bridging the amp like originally planned.

I'm also wondering how well the XD600/1 will work with the 12 W6. I normally ran 3 -10's in my vehicles (always drove sports cars) but I wanted to save on trunk space so I went with the single 12 and smaller JL amps. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

@Jeffdachef looks like a good one for u..

 

[mliebs]

Not really sure what that means

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I think he's saying it is out of his league/experience... LOL!

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='mliebs']Not really sure what that means[/QUOTE]
jeff has large sytem knows all about bridging to comps and running active so does @kr15, someone will come answer..

 

[kr15 5,000+ posts]

Well, the Hertz drivers can handle more than rated. A local shop that does alot of pretty loud sq type cars, beat the snot outta hertz mids.

Active is a good thing. I prefer it to passive. If the installer knows his ****, let him set it up.

 

[mliebs]

I appreciate everyones feedback. Looks like I'm going active/passive LOL. I really like "in your face" mid bass so I'm hoping the Hertz can deliver. Thanks again

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I have a 2017 Mustang GT and wanted to upgrade the system so I dropped it off at the shop today. The place I brought it too has been there forever and gets excellent reviews so I'm pretty confident it'll turn out pretty good. I know everyone has their favorite equipment but at my age I didn't feel like searching around trying to build the ultimate system, I just wanted something that works. In the 90's and early 2000's I had a quite a few systems and always ran Zapco, PPI, or tube drivers so this is new uncharted territory for me. Below is what I'm going with.
Factory head unit

JL Audio Fix 86 and TWK 88

JL Audio HD 600/4 for the front

JL Audio XD 600/1 for the sub

Hertz Mille 163.3 pros

JL Audio 12 W6 (sealed)

0 gauge power wire the back for distribution

Dynamat on both doors

Here's where my questions come in. I originally purchased the 600/4 to have it bridged so the components would get 300 watts each. I know it's double the rating but I figured it's better to have too much power and not use it that need more but don't have it. The installer said he planned on running the system active instead of passive but with the four channel amp that would leave the mid range and tweeter still using the passive crossover. At this point will I benefit from the active setup or just go with bridging the amp like originally planned.

I'm also wondering how well the XD600/1 will work with the 12 W6. I normally ran 3 -10's in my vehicles (always drove sports cars) but I wanted to save on trunk space so I went with the single 12 and smaller JL amps. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Stick with your original idea. Only go active if you buy another 2 channel amp and go full active meaning each mid, tweet, midbass gets its own amp channel. Otherwise its meaningless to go half @ssed active.

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

id do it like he is. put the mid bass on 1 channel, and the mid range and tweet on another channel

so channels 1 and 2 will push both mids and both tweets

and channels 3 and 4 will push both midbasses

should be a nice setup. the 600/1 will be perfect with the W6. the W6 will sound nice in your Mustang

put up some pics when its done!

 

[mliebs]

Pics will have to wait until the weekend but the system turned out pretty nice. I had to bring it back to have him make a few changes but overall it has a ton of mid bass and the sub blends in really well. I went with the woofers on channels 3&4 (running active) and the midrange with tweeter running passive on 1&2. The dynamat made a huge difference in the overall feel of the doors. They put a layer inside of the outer panel and lined the inner panel under the door panel. Honestly for the price I couldn't be happier (at least for a month or two). I appreciate everyones feedback