Punch 400.4 remote lug is grounded

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newandbetter

CarAudio.com Newbie
Punch p400.4 not powering on. Remote wire getting output producing 12v, amp only reading 4v. Switched wires and remote power source. Still only getting 3-4v at amp. Figured there was a short at\in amp. Tested continuity between neg and remote and there is. No continuity between power and remote. Tested voltage between power and ground and got 12v. Tested voltage between power and remote and got 12v with remote acting as ground. So remote is somehow connected to ground. Does anyone have experience with this problem and fix? Thank you for your valuable time
 
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Try leaving the amp power and ground connected, remove the remote in. Create a long lead directly from the battery hot lead (or any 12v hot), touch the remote impute on the amp, if it starts up, you have an issue from the remote lead, if not, you have an amplifier issue.
 
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Try leaving the amp power and ground connected, remove the remote in. Create a long lead directly from the battery hot lead (or any 12v hot), touch the remote impute on the amp, if it starts up, you have an issue from the remote lead, if not, you have an amplifier issue.
Touch it on the amp at the remote wire connector? If so I tried that and the voltage gets reduced to 3-4v. Plus I'm getting continuity .734 ohms between ground and remote terminals. Sorry for delayed reply. Thanks for your help
 
A direct wire from your battery should be at 12v+ so I'm not following. Leave your power and ground intact. Take the remote wire currently in use off. Then get a how ever many foot 16 gauge wire connect it to the positive battery terminal, then touch the remote input on the amp with the other end. It should turn on. If it doesn't, likely an amplifier issue provided the power/ground connections are good. You can test that too by removing the power lead an using that hot lead you now have and connect it to both the remote and the pos input on the amp, still nothing, you gots a bad amp more than likely.
 
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A direct wire from your battery should be at 12v+ so I'm not following. Leave your power and ground intact. Take the remote wire currently in use off. Then get a how ever many foot 16 gauge wire connect it to the positive battery terminal, then touch the remote input on the amp with the other end. It should turn on. If it doesn't, likely an amplifier issue provided the power/ground connections are good. You can test that too by removing the power lead an using that hot lead you now have and connect it to both the remote and the pos input on the amp, still nothing, you gots a bad amp more than likely.
Yeah the battery or whatever power supply I used starts off at 12v. But at the terminal on amp it's goes to 3-4v like it's shorted in the amp some where. I'm about to desolder the connector lugs from the board to try and figure out where the shirt is. Any feedback is greatly appreciated before I **** something up permanently...
 
Yeah the battery or whatever power supply I used starts off at 12v. But at the terminal on amp it's goes to 3-4v like it's shorted in the amp some where. I'm about to desolder the connector lugs from the board to try and figure out where the shirt is. Any feedback is greatly appreciated before I **** something up permanently...
Not whatever power supply used, the battery is the go to in this situation. Easy to do and will be 12 volts at the end of that 16 gauge wire, at least to the remote input, no real amperage draw for that. We're just trying to see if a 12 volt turn on live from the battery can turn the amplifier on. Unless you've worked on the internals before, I don't recommend it. Cpi;d ba a $50 - $150 repair if you take it in, destroyed amp if your not familiar with you're doing. I'm not a repair technician and while I'm familiar with how these things work and all, that is where I draw the line. Saving money is expensive sometimes!
 
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Not whatever power supply used, the battery is the go to in this situation. Easy to do and will be 12 volts at the end of that 16 gauge wire, at least to the remote input, no real amperage draw for that. We're just trying to see if a 12 volt turn on live from the battery can turn the amplifier on. Unless you've worked on the internals before, I don't recommend it. Cpi;d ba a $50 - $150 repair if you take it in, destroyed amp if your not familiar with you're doing. I'm not a repair technician and while I'm familiar with how these things work and all, that is where I draw the line. Saving money is expensive sometimes!
Agreed. You can jump the 12v from the power input to the remote with a paper clip. Disconnect the remote input line first just in case.
 
I would at least open it up and see if something is wrong with the remote or power and ground terminals.
I had a 4 channel DD amp. I cant remember which one it was now but it had the rails inside rather than wire to run the power and ground. The ground rail solder points had come loose and it leaned over onto the power rail.

If your not comfortable working on it I get that but at least you will know
 
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