Don't agree at all. It's all amplitue above ~2k right? and phase/time below? The brain is easily fooled...just look at some unconventional home tower designs. They're going to stage and image leagues better than a car cause you can get the correct requirements for stereo. You cannot re-play stereo in a car unless you mod an F1 race car.
lobing.
phase/time below 500k, I believe. IIRC, there's a good few octaves where it's a bit of both.
Personally I've just learned to cross everything to 800 or lower (low, low volume to protect tweeters) and work from there. Even though we aren't supposed to be able to hear phase/time shifts above 2khz, I still can hear a tweeter come full circle and 'click' back into phase with 3 t/a adjustments of about 0.02ms each. So, for every 0.08ms I can hear the tweeter come back into phase. Kind of crazy. But, to make it easier to discern, I drop everything into the t/a audible range so that it's much easier to get right. I don't know if there's a drawback to doing this (ie: does higher frequency crossing result in another phase shift that negates my work?), but so far it's been my best method of locking the stage together.
So, anyway, what I was saying is that if you're going to separate anything, the lobing effect dictates that you would want to do it at a lower frequency where the wavelengths are longer. How much water does this hold in a car? I can't give definates. I will say that the coherency in my car by putting the mid with the tweeter increased right off the bat, whereas having the tweeter separated from the mid, while the mid was in the kick and midbass in the doors, coherency was a *****. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif
I guess it's a bit OT since he has all his drivers close together. But when he decides he needs to increase his stage height, my experience says that he would be better suited to couple the midrange and tweeter and put them on the dash rather than just take the tweeter up to the top.
