Project 626

[fshanda 10+ year member]

Starting a build on my sons first car a 1994 Mazda 626. He bought his ride for $300 had to install a new exhaust system and pay for the inspection. Total price to get it on the road $800.

Were trying hard to do this and not **** his bank account dry. Im donating 2 sets of Polk DB components. One set of 6.75's and a set of 5.25's. Im also giving him my Alpine MRV-F345 to power the comps.

He traded his Wii some games and some other stuff for his Sub channel. The subs a Memphis 15" MOJO quad 1ohm coils. The amp is a Memphis Mojo 16-MC2000D. I wish it was 1ohm stable but he will have to due running it at 4ohm 1200 watts.

Were still looking at head units, no decision on what he wants yet. He's still trying to barter stuff for a good unit from a few of his friends. I might post an add to trade a bunch of my stuff to fund the unit and some install accessories he still needs.

I also have some questions I need answered. This is the first time Ive installed this much power in a car.

Now the important stuff, the picts.

What I have to work with.

Interior

Click to read more...

 

[fshanda 10+ year member]

The gear we have so far.

 

[fshanda 10+ year member]

I have the sub enclosure on its way to being finished. 4 cubes, slot ported, tuned to 38hz. Memphis suggested tuning to 40-45hz but I went a little lower. Tomorrow im going to prime and paint the port pumpkin orange to match the subs color. Then finish gluing stapling and screwing the box together. Hopefully I will have it completed some time next week.

And yea, no MDF in this build. I had a bunch of Advantech OSB I scavenged from a job site, it was free, and thats what im using. Its actually hard as a rock and should work great.

Particle board for the face. Wanted something smoother to paint over and get a better finish.

 

[fshanda 10+ year member]

Now for the questions. Were going to start the Big 3 this weekend, that much I understand. I know im going to need to put a battery in the trunk to help keep this setup moving and thats new to me.

So far I have enough 1/0 power wire to make the run from the front to the back. Am I also supposed to put a fuse block close to the front battery, like im used to, as well as one before connecting the positive cable to the rear battery? Then also putting fuse blocks in the power runs from the rear battery to each amp. I was also wondering about the ground. Is it really worth the extra money to run a ground from the rear battery to the front battery instead of grounding somewhere in the rear to the frame? Im guessing that I should run the grounds from the amps to the negative terminal on the rear battery as well.

Heres a list of stuff I was looking at to make all these connections.

1 - KNI-11 KonFUSED High Current In-Line Fuse Holder (300A) This is for the run fron the battery to the MOJO amp

4 - BT-104N Battery Terminals

2 - KLA-5M Klarity 2 Channel RCA Kable 5M ( I have one set already for the sub channel)

1 - MANL-80A Mini ANL (MIDI) Fuse 80A ( I already have a fuse holder) This is for the run from the battery to the Alpine 4 channel

2 - ANL360 Silver Plated 360 Amp ANL Fuse ( I have 2 ANL fuse blocks) for the positive run from the front to the rear battery

KFX0BL Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Blue Power/Ground Wire ( I will need this if I run the negative to negative from the rear to the front)

Any input would be appreciated. Later on he will probably be trying to get another amp with more power for the sub thats 1ohm stable or getting another sub thats D4 so he can use the 2000-2400 watts the amp is capable of. I think we will be set for either option.

I also want to know about the battery for the trunk. Does it need to be some special type of battery like I see in a lot of the threads here or would something like a deep cell marine battery do just as well?

 

[pd8731]

You'll need this.

 

[geowick07 10+ year member]

You'll need this.

lol...and it begins!

geo

 

[stevew007 10+ year member]

yeah you picked the wrong site to show off your build! this site is full of a bunch of teenage keyboard comandos that know nothing but ragging on other people because you choose not to do it there way.most the people i know on here wont post there builds because of this. you are on the right track with your build i would say something about your choice of wood but I've used that stuff at work and it is stout and will hold up. think it was about $80-$100 a sheet if i remeber right. dont let any of these kids around here chase you off the forum

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

yeah you picked the wrong site to show off your build! this site is full of a bunch of teenage keyboard comandos that know nothing but ragging on other people because you choose not to do it there way.most the people i know on here wont post there builds because of this. you are on the right track with your build i would say something about your choice of wood but I've used that stuff at work and it is stout and will hold up. think it was about $80-$100 a sheet if i remeber right. dont let any of these kids around here chase you off the forum

x2....so far so good on the build bro

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Nice father and son project. Looking forward to hear what he thinks when it's all done...

 

[fshanda 10+ year member]

Im used to sarcasm. One 13 year old and an 18 year old, its a daily occurrence.

He's pretty excited and he gets to do the Big 3 while I watch and help. I would have went with the MDF but were trying to shave a buck here and there so he has some money left for school in the spring.

Hes supposed to put an add in CraigsList this weekend to try and sell his moped. He's going to need some more cash for batteries and distro items. I cant wait to hear this thing for myself. If I have time I want to do some fiberglass work for the front components.

I have pretty good woodworking and fiberglass skills, just need a few tips with the electric distro.

 

[fshanda 10+ year member]

Just a little more progress. I got the port primed and painted. Will be ready to assemble on Monday when I get back to work. Then just need to attach the face and do some filling and smoothing before paint. It takes a little extra work laying body filler on the OSB to level the surface before painting. The rest of the box will be blue with a hammered finish and clear coated.

I also purchased some power cable and battery terminals today so I can start getting the car wired up.

 

[LDW3RD 10+ year member]

Awesome woodworking skills.

 

[pd8731]

Looks like a very nice build, but I still would not have chosen that wood regardless of budget. I think it'll be fine, but I would resin and fiberglass the inside of that box heavily.

 

[traksta15 10+ year member]

Looks good man, be sure and post completed pics.

 

[WOT]

First off Kudos on helping your son, wish my dad had any interest whatsoever in my hobby

For your questions, your power wire is atleast 4 gauge correct? You only need a fuse on the main power wire preferably within 18" of the front battery, run it through grommets. As for the AMP ground, a clean bare spot on the body of the car is fine, no need at all to run it back to the front battery ground.

As for adding a second battery, thats hobwash, if you want to upgrade to more power down the road, then MAYBE. I wouldnt waste the money on buying another battery and the cables to run it. Ive run 2000rms off a factory battery alone, it can take it just fine. If you wanna be safe, pick up a Optima yellow top for underhood if his oem battery is old. You can even find them used for under $100

I honestly see no need at all for a rear battery for this setup though. ANy more specific questions feel free to pm me, im not much for coming back to the same threads lol

Kudos again on helping your son