Problem and I’m out of ideas.

[Cotusian]

When this began a month ago, just the rear speakers began to clip at fairly normal volume. By chance, my son noticed that they would work if the cones were pushed in slightly. (Boston NX 57’s) I replaced them with Kicker K’s. Now everything clips and I’m out of ideas. The system was originally done by Tweeter years ago (I did a lot of this when I was younger) and I’ve always been happy with it for what it is-

Car- 1997 BMW 328ic with 69k

Factory BMW head unit (Alpine) and the specs aren’t bad.

MB Quart components. Woofers in the front kicks and tweeters in the doors.

Kicker full range in the rear panels as mentioned above.

Alpine amp driving the above.

Kicker sub built into the cubby in the center of rear seat driven by a separate Alpine amp (works fine).

Battery voltage 13.36 not running. 13.76 running. Battery tests 100%.

The inline fuses in the Monster power cables had some corrosion- replaced with distribution box. Replaced LOC’s and redid all of the connections which were butt connectors- soldered all with shrink tube. Reconfigured the grounds to a factory ground stud. Replaced the remote wire to both amps. Swapped in another similar amp. No change.

I stopped into a local shop and was advised to disconnect the component speakers from the crossovers one at a time. I went one better than that and found matching crossovers online. Tried the individual disconnects and swapped them out. No change.

Appreciate any advice as this is making me nuts now. Thanks in advance.

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[fly_marlin]

When this began a month ago, just the rear speakers began to clip at fairly normal volume. By chance, my son noticed that they would work if the cones were pushed in slightly. (Boston NX 57’s) I replaced them with Kicker K’s. Now everything clips and I’m out of ideas. The system was originally done by Tweeter years ago (I did a lot of this when I was younger) and I’ve always been happy with it for what it is-Car- 1997 BMW 328ic with 69k

Factory BMW head unit (Alpine) and the specs aren’t bad.

MB Quart components. Woofers in the front kicks and tweeters in the doors.

Kicker full range in the rear panels as mentioned above.

Alpine amp driving the above.

Kicker sub built into the cubby in the center of rear seat driven by a separate Alpine amp (works fine).

Battery voltage 13.36 not running. 13.76 running. Battery tests 100%.

The inline fuses in the Monster power cables had some corrosion- replaced with distribution box. Replaced LOC’s and redid all of the connections which were butt connectors- soldered all with shrink tube. Reconfigured the grounds to a factory ground stud. Replaced the remote wire to both amps. Swapped in another similar amp. No change.

I stopped into a local shop and was advised to disconnect the component speakers form the crossovers one at a time. I went one better than that and found matching crossovers online. Tried the individual disconnects and swapped them out. No change.

Appreciate any advice as this is making me nuts now. Thanks in advance.

How are you determining clipping? Or do you mean distortion? How old's the Alpine amp and what model is it?

 

[Cotusian]

Thanks for the response. When I say clipping- I mean it cuts out entirely. Not distortion. Amp is an MRP F-240. Originally installed 5/20/05. When the volume is turned down it comes back in.

I originally suspected the amp as well and swapped in an MRP-F300. I'm thinking the possibility that both are bad is slim...

 

[fly_marlin]

Either wiring or the HU. Btw "clipping" means something entirely different, that's why I was confused. If you have a DMM, other members on here can suggest how to test the amp and HU.

 

[Cotusian]

Thanks for the lingo tip. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif I do have a DMM. Would be great if someone would outline the steps. Been away from this stuff for quite awhile. Thanks!