Power Distribution, Questions Reguarding HiAmp/Watt Setups???

[smullen 10+ year member]

You just add to accommodate the current you need.
I have triple runs of 1/0 from alternator, to frame grounds, and to the rear batteries.

nG

Any Pics??? of the runs of 1/0 From the Alt, and back???

not according to all of the charts i have seen, but the manufacturer that makes this copper alloy says on there chart that this size copper will only incur a 30*C rise from 560 amps and in car audio since the power is never continuous it can take even more then that.

Who makes these??? you have a link?

I see in your sig, you have ""8 runs Knukoncepts 1/0"" Any pics of those???

Admittedly, I'm a pic hound... I love seeing pics of how people did stuff...

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

I'll see if I can dig up some of my pics...

nG

 

[93dakota 10+ year member]

As for the buss bars I made mine and helped Pioneer~saturn's. Here as some pics of my power/ ground wires.

 

[McIntosh 10+ year member]

not according to all of the charts i have seen, I did miss label by putting continuous on the last post . but the manufacturer that makes this copper alloy says on there chart that this size copper will only incur a 30*C rise from 560 amps and in car audio since the power is never continuous it can take even more then that.

A 1/4 X 1 1/4 buss is rated for 312.5 amps. That's what it is. It certainly matters where the power is supplied/tapped. I see plenty of claims for higher current capabilities with wire. None have as of yet been willing to back them up. They simply blow smoke. The "fact" car audio isn't continuous is part of that smoke. How can they possibly know how "continuous" my audio is? Most of this larger wiring/buss is used for subs AFAIK. That seems to be pretty "continuous" to me. You be "bangin", "burpin", whatever but you do it CONTINUOUSLY. 55% seems kind of low for actual usage. A 30 degree C rise is just that, whatever you start out with add 86 degrees F. A nice sunny day your car will be 140F+ inside to start with. 140+86=226 degrees F. That may be a tad hot to touch (unless boiling water doesn't hurt you). The wire's insulation isn't rated for that. You're buying a sales pitch.

 

[sctattooer 10+ year member]

I'm only running 1000 watts, but I installed a constant duty relay to separate the front battery from the rear. My 'big 3' is all done in 2 gauge, and 2 gauge to the back as well. I also wired another of the constant duty relays in the back that I can shut off when I work on my sound system. It beats remembering to pull a fuse.

I probably should have done it all in 1/0, but it seems to work okay, and nothing gets hot.

 

[smullen 10+ year member]

I'm only running 1000 watts, but I installed a constant duty relay to separate the front battery from the rear. My 'big 3' is all done in 2 gauge, and 2 gauge to the back as well. I also wired another of the constant duty relays in the back that I can shut off when I work on my sound system. It beats remembering to pull a fuse.
I probably should have done it all in 1/0, but it seems to work okay, and nothing gets hot.

What the hell is a constant Duty Relay???

Wait, same thing as a Solinoid??? Or Simmilar??? I dunno... Seems like it... Not a bad idea though...

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Depending on the system you may very well want to by pass the front battery especially if you have several in the back, just run a dedicated line directly from the alt to the rear batteries. Also it is wise to complete the circuit and spread the current across the batteries. Lets say you have 4 batteries and 4 amps, you can spread the connection to 1 amp per battery (yes even if they are all connected together via buss bars).

 

[McIntosh 10+ year member]

Depending on the system you may very well want to by pass the front battery especially if you have several in the back, just run a dedicated line directly from the alt to the rear batteries. Also it is wise to complete the circuit and spread the current across the batteries. Lets say you have 4 batteries and 4 amps, you can spread the connection to 1 amp per battery (yes even if they are all connected together via buss bars).

Reallly? How can they be separate if they're all connected via a buss?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Reallly? How can they be separate if they're all connected via a buss?

has nothing to do with the buss bars and everything to do with bottle necked connections.

 

[MakeshiftAudio 10+ year member]

has nothing to do with the buss bars and everything to do with bottle necked connections.

You're right.

Though.

Ignore him. (McIntosh)

Don't feed the troll.

 

[93dakota 10+ year member]

Reallly? How can they be separate if they're all connected via a buss?

WOW the all Knowing cant answer this questions him self... It is a little thing called "path of least resistance"

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

WOW the all Knowing cant answer this questions him self... It is a little thing called "path of least resistance"

i have a feeling that would lose him because he is stuck thinking about batteries and not the flow to the equipment

 

[MakeshiftAudio 10+ year member]

i have a feeling that would lose him because he is stuck thinking about batteries and not the flow to the equipment

I'm surprised he stated it the way he did, since... you know guys... a wire can only carry x amount of current and no more.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

I'm surprised he stated it the way he did, since... you know guys... a wire can only carry x amount of current and no more.

or a givin connection can only handle so much even if you have 20 wires LOL

 

[sctattooer 10+ year member]

What the hell is a constant Duty Relay???
Wait, same thing as a Solinoid??? Or Simmilar??? I dunno... Seems like it... Not a bad idea though...

Yes, it's like a solenoid. The problem with saying 'solenoid' is that most people see what they look like (just like a Ford starter solenoid) and just put in one of the starter solenoids, which are really the same thing, but not designed for constant duty. They fail very quickly when left in the open position.

I actually bought a bunch of the constant duty ones from several ambulances in a local junkyard for 5 bucks each, and the Cole-Hersee ones they use in ambulances blow the stinger ones away.