Passive or active?

[2tall]

So I am having a audison bit one installed in my truck today. I have a 13 f250 sony sync system, hertz hdp5, hertz mlk165.3 up front, and a jl tw5 for sub. I keep going back and forth with the guys installing it about leaving the crossovers installed and bridging the amp 200wX2 or going active 100wX4. Can anyone give me some pros and cons of both setups? Is staying passive going to be louder and going active will be cleaner sound? Any input would be great. Suppose to pick my truck up in a few hours

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[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Staying passive will be louder because you're obviously giving the speaker (system) more power...the drawback will be the lack of control over the individual drivers.

Passive crossover components affect the phase of the drivers and can cause acoustic anomalies between the drivers...most of the time this is considered and addressed in the design/component selection of the passives crossover. So much of your choice will depend on how well your particular crossover/speaker system is designed. If it's well designed and handles 200rms per side like a champ...then maybe it's the way to go.

If you don't really need the extra power or headroom of 200rms...and would prefer to not deal with crossover related phase issues then active may be the way to go.

You will lose the ability to TA the individual drivers if you go passive. Passive crossovers typically do not have a lot of flexibility when it comes to level adjustment either.

Myself, I would opt for the control...extra loud never compensated for not sounding as good.

 

[JohnKuthe]

Staying passive will be louder because you're obviously giving the speaker (system) more power...the drawback will be the lack of control over the individual drivers.
Passive crossover components affect the phase of the drivers and can cause acoustic anomalies between the drivers...most of the time this is considered and addressed in the design/component selection of the passives crossover. So much of your choice will depend on how well your particular crossover/speaker system is designed. If it's well designed and handles 200rms per side like a champ...then maybe it's the way to go.

If you don't really need the extra power or headroom of 200rms...and would prefer to not deal with crossover related phase issues then active may be the way to go.

You will lose the ability to TA the individual drivers if you go passive.

Myself, I would opt for the control...extra loud never compensated for not sounding as good.

Yep! I learned that lesson the hard way! Which is why I want to go full active, with full control over each driver, I have 9 total including my sub! But full active's gonna require some rewiring for me, which I don't think I'm gonna do in this subfreezing weather.

John Kuthe...

 

[2tall]

Well the truck ended up staying there. It sounded like complete ***! It sounded better with the little cheap Lc2i. I'm leaning towards these guys have no experience with what they sell. All I know is my truck will either leave sounding better or leaving with the lc2i back in there. I know its not the bit one, it's the guys trying to tune like we are still in the 90's. They looked at me wierd when I kept insisting active and some dam tools like an Rta. Idfk........

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[2tall]

Cd player will not read audison disc. Keeps spitting it out. Think it's a bad disc?

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[ashren315]

Well the truck ended up staying there. It sounded like complete ***! It sounded better with the little cheap Lc2i. I'm leaning towards these guys have no experience with what they sell. All I know is my truck will either leave sounding better or leaving with the lc2i back in there. I know its not the bit one, it's the guys trying to tune like we are still in the 90's. They looked at me wierd when I kept insisting active and some dam tools like an Rta. Idfk........
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Wait. You asked them about using an RTA and they looked at you funny and you are STILL letting them do the install?

 

[2tall]

I took the truck, with only paying for the bit one. I'm trying to get half way started on my own. They are using high level inputs but it was setup in the software under low level. Basically I'm starting from scratch. I need that cd to play so I can assign all the inputs. But the truck refuses to load it. I tried the disc in the house and it worked. I tried the disc in the wife's ford edge with same sony stereo and it would not load in her car either. I'm going to try and put it on a flash drive and see if that works

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[ashren315]

I took the truck, with only paying for the bit one. I'm trying to get half way started on my own. They are using high level inputs but it was setup in the software under low level. Basically I'm starting from scratch. I need that cd to play so I can assign all the inputs. But the truck refuses to load it. I tried the disc in the house and it worked. I tried the disc in the wife's ford edge with same sony stereo and it would not load in her car either. I'm going to try and put it on a flash drive and see if that works
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You are just trying to get the test tracks to play correct?

Try burning the tracks to a new disk.

 

[2tall]

Yes

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[ashren315]

Yes
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Other CDs are working fine? Does the test CD good be you any error codes?

 

[2tall]

Other cd's work fine, and no errors, just says "reading disk" and then spits it back out after a couple of seconds

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[ashren315]

Have you cleaned the disk just to make sure there isn't anything on it?

 

[2tall]

Yes, it plays fine in the house. But will not play in my ford or the wife's ford. We both have sony sync stereos

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[ashren315]

Only thing I can think of is that the CD players don't like that CD for some reason. I'd try just burning the test tracks to another CD and see if that works. Just be sure to do it at 320 Kbps.

 

[2tall]

Ok, thanks! I will see if I can get a cd burned. And I kept pushing the disc back in and it finally said "disc reading error"

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