Overdriving Subs??

rovster

CarAudio.com Recruit
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16
Miramar
I'm getting close to finalizing all the parts for my build. I am planning a JL Stealthbox for my truck that consists of 2 downfiring 12Tw3-D8 subs. (Yes, I know about the issues with downfinig in a truck but want to keep things as stealthy and factory as possible).

The Stealthbox is rated for 800W RMS @2 ohm. I wanted to stay with a JL amp and was planning a 600W RMS mono but I was wondering I could get a way with 1000W RMS mono.

Figured its a sealed enclosure and JL is known for taking a little extra. Was thinking I could always get the 1000 and just run the gain a little lower that way I could optimize the performance.

What do you guys think? Safe to do? Stupid idea? I tried reaching out to JL and they have not responded in a week not sure the site is working properly. Thanks for any advice.
 
Forgive my ignorance but can you "set" the amp to output less or measure the output? I thought gain had to do with signal strength but maybe I need to refresh my memory on that as well. Thanks all.
 
Gain is about matching signal strength but you can set it lower so it won't amplify the signal as much (less power to the subs)...the biggest thing is to avoid clipping that's what kills a sub faster than anything
 
you can use a 2,000 watt amp, if you set the amp gain right. heres how. test tones are at the very bottom...

 
Mechanically in the rated box they can handle more power than rated rms by quite a bit. Thermally they should handle a fair bit more as well. I was modeling a pair of them on 12-1500w and would have no issues running them on such power. Just keep the signal clean and unclipped. The alpine r2 shallow is a better sub in my opinion as is the hertz mps.

The sundown sd4 will be louder as well. While I have no experience with the sd4 I believe it to be a viable competitor though it is more thermally sensitive
 
Yeah thanks to you guys I’m going with the bigger amp; better to have the power in reserve and not need it than….well something like that 😇
 
Personally I wouldn't go with either one, but your call.

JL audio is good stuff. My experience has been generally built better than average, but you definitely pay for a name. I would bet a 1000w JL amp is probably $400-$500. If you were pushing a nice set of components, and you wanted an amp with minimal distortion, (getting close to audiophile territory) I would go JL. I don't see the point in spending twice as much for a JL amp to push subs.

It's more important to match wattage than name brands. There's the video on how to do it, but I personally wouldn't spend twice as much just to matchey matchey the name brands. I'm sure you could find a decent 800w amp for half the price. If you PLAN on needing more power then go ahead. I would think that video is best for people who already have an amp collecting dust, that will work but was designed for more. You can do it no problem, your call. Just seems to me like your spending money for no reason, and you're never going to get it back. If you're not going to need 1000w now, when will you? (just my $.02).
 
Personally I wouldn't go with either one, but your call.

JL audio is good stuff. My experience has been generally built better than average, but you definitely pay for a name. I would bet a 1000w JL amp is probably $400-$500. If you were pushing a nice set of components, and you wanted an amp with minimal distortion, (getting close to audiophile territory) I would go JL. I don't see the point in spending twice as much for a JL amp to push subs.

It's more important to match wattage than name brands. There's the video on how to do it, but I personally wouldn't spend twice as much just to matchey matchey the name brands. I'm sure you could find a decent 800w amp for half the price. If you PLAN on needing more power then go ahead. I would think that video is best for people who already have an amp collecting dust, that will work but was designed for more. You can do it no problem, your call. Just seems to me like you’re spending money for no reason, and you're never going to get it back. If you're not going to need 1000w now, when will you? (just my $.02).
I hear you. I am going with a high end JL for my components and a lower line JL for the sub. On sale it’s a reasonable price but I definitely get what you’re saying. Appreciate the feedback.
 
I personally would not buy an 800w amp for that JL set. You’d be depending on the amp to do over rated to allow for any clean headroom on any dynamic peaks. If it does right around 800w and not much or any more, anything past that is clipping / distortion. With a 1000w amp, you get guaranteed 800w of clean power, and even if it would occasionally hit 1000w, it’s still clean. As mentioned, you could run a 2000+ watt amp and just attenuate the input lower to set the output where you need it, no big deal. Also, if you tune say a 1000w amp so that it is putting out about 800w, it is less strain on the amp as well, since you are not trying to squeeze every last drop of power out of it.

Any setup I've run, I've always been happier with more power than the sub actually needed.

The key is to make sure the amp is not clipping, and that you tune the amp lower as needed if overpowering the sub is a problem.
 
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