Orion 2500d @ .5 Ohm???

[pioneerpimp 5,000+ posts]

it has to be rising then. i remember there was a guy with a s-10 with 2 orion running below 1 ohm and he eventually wrecked both amps.

rise is after the load after the load is sent to the amp. the amp is sending out .5 and it reacts after that.

 

[jfsh90 10+ year member]

Well, are the 1200ds power hogs?

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

why is your inline fuse right by the amp?

Its a distribution fuse block and I have one in line fuse by the battery also.

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

I just did two runs of 1/0 gauge from the alt to the battery and kept the stock wire there.

Also two runs of 1/0 gauge from the negative side on the battery to the chassis.I'm guessing I still need to do two runs of 1/0 gauge from the engine block to the negative on the battery???//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif Then the big 3 is finished??

Tomorrow ill tackle everything in the rear with the amps ground and power wires I still need to save up for a battery in the rear.Thank you for all the info everyone posted theres lots of good information in this thread.Also when the car is off it reads 12.8-12.9volts

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

didnt read page 2 yesterday... this is what you need to do.

First off you need shorten the amount of dual 4awg wire between the power distro block and that amp. the shorter the better since at any point going from 1/0 to dual 4awg makes the 1/0 pointless. if it's a few inches of dual 4awg you should be ok, but definitly shorten those. Then you need to shorten your grounds as much as possible. sam ewith the ground if you stick with dual 4awg. get a distro block and make that dual 4awg and little as possible, and shorten the grounds and powers all together.

OR

Cut about 6inches (give or take) of sheathing off that 1/0 and run half and half to the power inputs. Take some more 1/0 and do the same with your grounds. this will work ONLY if you safely reinsulate with lots of tape and even a gormet (sp?) if you want it to look cool and be more protected. Doing this more efficent than using busbars, adapters, or smaller awg wires. those orion power inputs are a pain in the ***. But as long as you safely insulate the wire you can split the 1/0 and run it to each power and ground. You can even do this with multiple runs of 1/0 to fit a single 1/0 power terminal. by trimming off a good section of sheathing, connecting the runs makeing sure there's a solid connection with every bit of copper over the length of a few inches, and just leave one run an inch longer on the very end to go into the termina, you can fit as many as 3 or 4 runs into 1 single 1/0 terminal.

Next...... BIG 3 with 1/0, no excuses. If you can manage to trim some off your power run use that, but you may need to buy a few more feet. again, the lesser the length the wire the better. try to make these big 3 wires short but still doing the job right, I also recommend crimp on terminals, they're cheaper, easier to use, and have less resistance than bolt/screw ones.

Now's where you need to spend money. Fortunitly you have an HO alty (and i nice one at that), you need AT LEAST another red top. i recommend something more powerful, but to make sure they dont die ina year or 2 they need to be the same kind of battery (if they stay connected when the car's off). Powermaster makes the best batteries ive got to play with, scottieJ know his shit. Yellow tops are next best IMO, followed by Kinetik. But thats IMO.

If you fix all that wiring shit, that alone should help stablize voltage. Another neat trick is to put like 2 or 3 pos and 2 or 3 neg runs of 1/0 between the alty and front bat, thatll keep the front bat uber charged. EVen though that amp has only dual 4awg on it, it's made to take and put out 1/0awg worth of power all day.

hope this helps.

Once I get enough money to buy a non fused distribution block for the ground,and a battery im going to do exactly what you said you helped out alot. thanks alot man //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/2thumbs.gif.fdc3ba010dbb42b61704534b46d02fe4.gif

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

is it a 200A alt?
edit: forgot to add. good thing you checked the alternator. at least you know its spinning up and doesnt need a smaller pulley. my friends alt pulley is just a TINY bit oversized so when hes in park it sits at 14.2V or so, then as soon as he put it in drive and the engine gets a little load and drops the RPMs a tiny bit, it drops to 13.2. a lost of a full volt.

double edit: shit i forgot. did you check this only at idle? i wouldnt mind seeing a 2krpm reading as well.

Yupp its a 200amp powermaster alt

Yeah all those test I did were while the car was at idle and yes I already have a smaller pulley on there so thats why it hardly drops volts from park to in gear.

Also when I do rev it to about 2500rpm the volts don't drop as bad when its idling but yes they still do make my stock gauge go down alot and lights dim alot too.

 

[CRXBMPN 5,000+ posts]

jesus 9.4 is horrific.

I just (as in 3 hours ago) upgraded my stock RSX battery (the brick ones that come in nearly all Honda/Acuras) to a yellow top that I load tested and it shined like a star, and I have another yellow top out back too that is stout, I can honestly tell you that my 2500d @ 1 ohm sounds better with the yellow top up front... I cant believe I just said that but its true, I assume its less distortion since I have the juice... I have to test some stuff as well, I know I dropped to 11.9 on a burp with my car hooked up to a 10a charger and the car in the ACCESSORY position. If I dont drop nearly as bad I know its the battery doing its job.

I've ran four 2500d's @ .5 each and never lost one, and I've ran two @ .25 each and I had to roll volume (but never blew one, had 4 yellow tops too lol)

I know what I'm saying dont really help but if you can get your voltage up by adding a second identical battery I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

Good luck.

I'm going to be running four RE MX 12's off a single 2500d @ 1 ohm for daily and adding a 2nd 2500d for shows and burping @ .5 each (all subs dual 2 ohm)

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

i would still say since i have no doubt the alt is doing its job, that you gotta check your connections. try a better ground for sure. maybe even go straight to the battery to guarantee its a good ground.

you just should not be loosing 5v like that. i really think its another issue. bassaddict left some awesome advice.

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

Once I get enough money I think im going to buy two new batteries.I think my red top is going bad while the car is off it reads like like 12.3volts the battery is at least 5 years old and has been in at least 6 different cars and been beating hard with all different types of systems.

 

[dtp 10+ year member]

what is the differance between the regular orion 2500d and the westcoast 2500d

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

what is the differance between the regular orion 2500d and the westcoast 2500d

just the badges