Orion 2500d @ .5 Ohm???

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

ive heard mixed reactions about running that amp at .5......if its worked for you for the past year though keep at it lol....but yea def look into adding another battery...id look into the kinetik or even a powermaster

I have a powermaster alt.

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

theres like no protection on them 2500ds; you can run them at .5 but sounds like your connections are bad.

doubt it on the connections part.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

try to get these readings
1-voltage drop at full tilt (use lil jon or something with a steady bassline so the dmm can catch up and give you an accurate reading instead of jumping around)

2-voltage of battery @ idle/system off with car in drive (trying to replicate sitting at a stop light, and trying to make sure the alternator is providing the full ~14v in that situation)

While the car is idling in neutral 14.55 volts

While in gear with the e brake pulled up 14.50 volts

While hitting with a song with constant bass the song was jeezy "white girl" the lowest I saw the meter read was 9.4x volts and with some other songs low 13's volts and it shut off multiple times on me also and that was the loudest I ever heard the car my ears were actually hurting for awhile after I stopped listening to it.It was moving so much air maybe because I was in the back thats why my ears hurt??? haha

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

9.4 is too low....

whats your wiring consist of?

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

0 gauge from battery to fuse flock holder in the rear then two 4 gauge wires to the amp and two 4 gauge wires for ground.300 amp fuse by the battery and two 150 amp fuses in the rear distro block All knu koncepts wires Heres some pics right after I installed it and my interior was no where near finished and looked retarded haha

 

[iagrdshaka 5,000+ posts]

lol no backseat?

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

lol no backseat?

as for now nope Im trying to find black leather ones my gay shitty nasty tweed ones are in the garbage.ha

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

i would get a fairly decent sized battery for the back.

i would also check the resting voltage on that redtop... dropping to the 9's would be fairly hard on it.

You have the big 3 done right?

 

[blazrgreg 10+ year member]

I kept the stock power wire from the alt to bat and then added another run of 4 gauge I dont have the big 3 done I need to do it so bad.And ill check that voltage tomorrow for ya

 

[dleccord 5,000+ posts]

why is your inline fuse right by the amp?

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

That amp pulls about 300 amps at 1 ohm so no telling what at half 400 450 ? you'll need something way bigger than a Batcap 800

ya dude for real....batcap 800 aint gonan cut it. i'd recommend at least another red top in the back ( like yellow tops more)...look into a kinetik 1400 or up too. the more battery juice the better. same with wire. You'll have MUCH better current flow if you add another run of 1/0 and make sure your grounds are good. make sure to upgrade the big 3 to dual 1/0 also.

if you want more wire youll wanna do 3pos and 3 dedicated neg runs......ya it's 100ft of wire, but youll be able to move SO MUCH current alot easier, and the amps run alot happier. but if you dont want to do that much just stick with 2 power runs and a chasis ground

 

[15nissen 10+ year member]

the more battery bank the better. That amp is solid @ 1ohm, Teammates have ran them at .5 & 16volt if i remember right, But in the end if i remember right they let out a puff of magic smoke

 

[jfsh90 10+ year member]

From what I've read it looks like the 2500ds are powerhogs.

Are the 1200ds the same? I'll be having one in a couple days off of stock electrical.

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

didnt read page 2 yesterday... this is what you need to do.

First off you need shorten the amount of dual 4awg wire between the power distro block and that amp. the shorter the better since at any point going from 1/0 to dual 4awg makes the 1/0 pointless. if it's a few inches of dual 4awg you should be ok, but definitly shorten those. Then you need to shorten your grounds as much as possible. sam ewith the ground if you stick with dual 4awg. get a distro block and make that dual 4awg and little as possible, and shorten the grounds and powers all together.

OR

Cut about 6inches (give or take) of sheathing off that 1/0 and run half and half to the power inputs. Take some more 1/0 and do the same with your grounds. this will work ONLY if you safely reinsulate with lots of tape and even a gormet (sp?) if you want it to look cool and be more protected. Doing this more efficent than using busbars, adapters, or smaller awg wires. those orion power inputs are a pain in the ***. But as long as you safely insulate the wire you can split the 1/0 and run it to each power and ground. You can even do this with multiple runs of 1/0 to fit a single 1/0 power terminal. by trimming off a good section of sheathing, connecting the runs makeing sure there's a solid connection with every bit of copper over the length of a few inches, and just leave one run an inch longer on the very end to go into the termina, you can fit as many as 3 or 4 runs into 1 single 1/0 terminal.

Next...... BIG 3 with 1/0, no excuses. If you can manage to trim some off your power run use that, but you may need to buy a few more feet. again, the lesser the length the wire the better. try to make these big 3 wires short but still doing the job right, I also recommend crimp on terminals, they're cheaper, easier to use, and have less resistance than bolt/screw ones.

Now's where you need to spend money. Fortunitly you have an HO alty (and i nice one at that), you need AT LEAST another red top. i recommend something more powerful, but to make sure they dont die ina year or 2 they need to be the same kind of battery (if they stay connected when the car's off). Powermaster makes the best batteries ive got to play with, scottieJ know his shit. Yellow tops are next best IMO, followed by Kinetik. But thats IMO.

If you fix all that wiring shit, that alone should help stablize voltage. Another neat trick is to put like 2 or 3 pos and 2 or 3 neg runs of 1/0 between the alty and front bat, thatll keep the front bat uber charged. EVen though that amp has only dual 4awg on it, it's made to take and put out 1/0awg worth of power all day.

hope this helps.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

is it a 200A alt? i might of missed it.

if it IS, then there is a problem somewhere. you should not be dropping to 9.4V. that is DEADLY low. i would double and triple check ALL grounds. also use a dmm and set it to read ohms.

disconnect the battery negative. connect 1 lead of the dmm to the negative cable, and the other lead to your grounding points. easiest way is to just disconnect the grounds at the amps and read from there. you should have 0 ohms readings through all grounds.

and yes do the big 3 most definatly. thats the first thing i would do, then check my grounds. also, shortening the 4 gauge leads to the battery grounds is a good idea too.

there is ALOT of SOLID advice in this thread. one of the few on ca.com haha jk lol

edit: forgot to add. good thing you checked the alternator. at least you know its spinning up and doesnt need a smaller pulley. my friends alt pulley is just a TINY bit oversized so when hes in park it sits at 14.2V or so, then as soon as he put it in drive and the engine gets a little load and drops the RPMs a tiny bit, it drops to 13.2. a lost of a full volt.

double edit: shit i forgot. did you check this only at idle? i wouldnt mind seeing a 2krpm reading as well.