Orion 2500 went up into smoke today

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

dude how did you get almost 2600 posts here without learning not to crank ANY gains? maybe you need to start reading informative posts instead of just spewing a bunch of bullshit all the time.

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

one of the main points it makes in any gain setting tutorial is that you dont crank the input sensitivity on the amps, or turn the volume or bass boost on the deck up all the way, and that goes for $500+ decks, your jensen is not cleaner than an alpine or eclipse.

 

[makdaddy 10+ year member]

OK so would I be safe running the volume on 40/52?

40 should be fine, But remember DONT RUN THE AMPS AT FULL BORE. Gain should also be maxed at 3/4, And thats if your speaks will take it!!!

 

[makdaddy 10+ year member]

What do you mean by don't run the amps at full bore? I had them running at 39.8 on the DMM when the subs should be set for 44.7 on the MM in order for them to get the 2,000rms (two 15" L7s, 1000 rms each).

Well

I am old school. I am just getting back into the car stereo Game. Someone earlier mentioned sensitivity gain, that’s what we called it in the old days.

I need to get up to speed on this DMM. Not sure what you mean?

Full bore means not to run the RMS gain of the amp at MAX.

That’s the best I can explain.

You are not alone, I know of a lot of guys in the old days that would just crank the AMP sensitivity all the way to max, Not realizing that they are adding Noise to the output. In fact not to get to technical, but you could and should bench the amp for linear performance. This will set the gain or sensitivity to max before the amp clips. But a lot of times the bench isn’t the same as the car environment, thus if you max the gains at ¾ you will usually be ok

Just my 2 cents

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

As Cybe said we really need pics to determine what went wrong.

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

Ok, Are the subs still connected to the Amp? If so Turn on the Car and See if the subs move at a low volume on the HU, you dont need to DMM the amp. I think it has be determined that you blew the amp. Now we need to see what you blew in the amp, and what steps you need to fix it.

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

lol its probably just allen screws. you can get allen wrenches anywhere that sells tools cheap, should have then anyway. those or torx screws, but those are a lot less common.

dmm means digital multimeter. use it to measure voltage or resistance. to properly set your gains, you should also use a clampmeter to measure the current, to know how many watts you're sending your speakers. or to really be a tightass, find an audio shop with an oscilloscope.

 

[makdaddy 10+ year member]

lol its probably just allen screws. you can get allen wrenches anywhere that sells tools cheap, should have then anyway. those or torx screws, but those are a lot less common.
dmm means digital multimeter. use it to measure voltage or resistance. to properly set your gains, you should also use a clampmeter to measure the current, to know how many watts you're sending your speakers. or to really be a tightass, find an audio shop with an oscilloscope.

Ok I get it now. And you are correct on the O Scope, thats the only way to see the limitations of the amp. Dont know if i would trust Current level readings from the Volt meter? Does that seem to work well?

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

its the most accurate way other than having the amp benched or put on an oscilloscope. you can multiple the current and voltage in the speaker wires, multiply them to find the wattage. so if you know your amp does 2500+ rms, you can set it to put out roughly 2kw and leave a good deal of headroom.