OPINION...I Need SQ amp for 1 10" Sub...prefer class A or AB

[niebur3 10+ year member]

I have a very high end system and need a new sub amp. I have always been a fan of class A sound, even on a sub. I have 1 10" IDQ and I need an amp that can run it for SQ at the very best. I recently had a PG MPS2240 old school amp on it and it sounded great...until the amp died. I have McIntosh for my front stage and would like something with a high damping factor to really control the sub. I have heard the JL 500/1 on the sub on my car and it was very boomy (sp?) sounding...how do the PDX amps sound or do you know of any others. I am looking at McIntosh, Helix, Audison, Genesis, True Technology or Steg, but wanting to spend a little less. Just looking for some input. Need about 500 watts.

Thanks

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[atsaubrey 10+ year member]

The PDX amps get varied reviews. Definately from the SQ guys. what kind of budget are you looking at? I would totally recomend a Zapco if you want a high dampening factor which is a very good thing.

 

[niebur3 10+ year member]

I forgot them...I've been lookinf at their competition line as well...do you know how thei reference line sounds....I would probably not do the mono class D and do the Class A/B 350.2 and bridge it or something....or the 2.5 competition series.

 

[JDBoogie 10+ year member]

I have been using Image Dynamics subs for about 10 yrs now and they are my fav's by far. I am currently running a IDQ 10 D4 off a JL 500/1 and the "boomy" sound is usually the result of the box's size and the x-over freq. I have used Mmats, Alpine, Eclipse, Pioneer Premier, Diamond Audio and Phoenix gold amps on my IDQ's and i have to say that the JL's x-over gives me some of the best control and sound i have experienced in a while. I have had my sub in a box that was 1 cuft down to .67. I have crossed it over anywhere from 48 to 80 hz and it all produces diff sound. U will have to play around with box size and cross over freq to get the sound you want. I think i am crossed over at 60 "something" hz and my box size is a little over .77 and it sounds great. But if u have the budget.. The audison and Zapco amps are top notch. Which ever way u go your gonna have to "tune" your system to your ears in the end (no matter which amp u choose).

Good Luck!

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I have a IDQ 10 D4 running off a JL 500/1 and the "boomy" sound is usually the result of the box's size and the x-over freq. ... U will have to play around with box size and cross over freq to get the sound you want. ...The audison and Zapco amps are top notch. But your gonna have to "tune" your system to your ears in the end (no matter which amp u choose).
Good Luck!

Agreed - decent amp and sub in a well planned enclosure go a lot further than excellent amp and sub in a poor enclosure.

I'm all for nice gear, but regarding amps especially - if you're looking in about the same price/power range no amp will sound significantly different than the next.

 

[crawlinYJ 10+ year member]

the reference amplifiers sound great. if you need the tuning ability, look into the reference DC. i have ran the reference, ref DC's, and c2ks quite a bit.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

No need to concern yourself with the damping factor in regards to purchasing an amp.

A single-ended Class A amp is not feasible for a car. To my knowledge, the HSS Fidelity something or other is the only Class A amp made for car audio. The "experts" and audiophiles love to argue whether it really is a "A" or not. Regardless, what are you going to do with 20-30 watts and an amp that will probably run as hot as your engine??

PDX 1.600. Does 90% efficiency plus. Not worth it's retail price, but a good choice if you find a used one.

Buying a sub amp based on topology is foolish, IMO and I've owned plenty of so-called "high end" amps. My 1.600 has been in my car for months, which is lifetime.

You do realize that the JL 500.1 has a one-band parametric EQ on-board? Amps don't sound boomy, but maybe this setting was causing this?

 

[SQChevy 10+ year member]

May I ask why you are wanting to use an A or AB class amp for a subwoofer? There are several high end Class D amps that would fill your need.

 

[stuckinok 5,000+ posts]

May I ask why you are wanting to use an A or AB class amp for a subwoofer? There are several high end Class D amps that would fill your need.

Took the words right out of my mouth...

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

one of my TRU t100.2's would work perfect for you...

 

[Haunz 10+ year member]

A single-ended Class A amp is not feasible for a car. To my knowledge, the HSS Fidelity something or other is the only Class A amp made for car audio. The "experts" and audiophiles love to argue whether it really is a "A" or not.

More then likley it would operate as class A up untill the point it's putting out > 10 watts then switch over to A/B

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

Find a ZED Audio Deuce, Zapco Ref 500, or even Sundown SAX-100.2.

 

[crawlinYJ 10+ year member]

May I ask why you are wanting to use an A or AB class amp for a subwoofer? There are several high end Class D amps that would fill your need.

damping factor is quite an important spec. not so important if you dont really understand it and how it effects an amplifiers behavior as well as the speakers behavior.

now for you SQchevy, should we remind them that the c2k 9.0 is a class D? it performs great on mids and highs. and yes, i have heard multiple setups with them on mids and highs. lots and lots of mids and highs, but also great sounding.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

damping factor is quite an important spec. not so important if you dont really understand it and how it effects an amplifiers behavior as well as the speakers behavior.

Care to explain what it does and why it's "quite and important spec?" I know what it does and I'm firmly convinced that more isn't better once "enough" is reached. "Enough" being into the double digits.

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

Modern class D amps have over come the poor THD and dampening factor of the earlier class D amps to make the class vs SQ issue moot.

IMO, class D amps are better suited to making use of a cars limited power supply, and therefore are a better choice for sub amps.

Class A - A/B amps won't have the desired fidelity if the cars power supply can't keep up with the dynamic range.