Noob needs help with new subs and amp.

I apologize in advance for being a noob and the title of my post I litterally don't know enough about this subject to type a meaningful title or know what I'm googling. But basically I have a kenwood kac5001ps amp at 1000 watts paired with two pioneer tsw304r subs at 1300 max watts and am wondering why I am getting less power with these speakers then I was with the two players 1200 watt dvc subs. I thought I was upgrading to much nicer speakers. The only thing that sparked my attention is that the pioneers are significantly less weight than the plyes I installed them anyway because I figured pioneer was just better and used better lightweight technology. Lol anyway that's my post any help would be greatly appreciated.

 
I apologize in advance for being a noob and the title of my post I litterally don't know enough about this subject to type a meaningful title or know what I'm googling. But basically I have a kenwood kac5001ps amp at 1000 watts paired with two pioneer tsw304r subs at 1300 max watts and am wondering why I am getting less power with these speakers then I was with the two players 1200 watt dvc subs. I thought I was upgrading to much nicer speakers. The only thing that sparked my attention is that the pioneers are significantly less weight than the plyes I installed them anyway because I figured pioneer was just better and used better lightweight technology. Lol anyway that's my post any help would be greatly appreciated.
What was the voice coil configuration of the pyles? If you're not sure, maybe you can provide the exact model number.

In this price range, it's not really upgrading just because you switched to a more reliable brand. The pyles may've been more efficient. Also, taking a set of subs out and slapping another set in the same box on same power wouldn't be much of an upgrade. To really upgrade, you need more power, beefier subs, and a custom box.

 
What was the voice coil configuration of the pyles? If you're not sure, maybe you can provide the exact model number. In this price range, it's not really upgrading just because you switched to a more reliable brand. The pyles may've been more efficient. Also, taking a set of subs out and slapping another set in the same box on same power wouldn't be much of an upgrade. To really upgrade, you need more power, beefier subs, and a custom box.
The pyles were dual voice coil and I wired them as 4 ohm. The pioneer is single voice coil and I wired them as 4ohm also. I guess I thought at the least case these would be equal to the pyles but they seem like they hit much weaker and are distorting much easier. Is it possible I have something wired wrong? I also notice they are much less responsive to the adjust,mets made at the head unit level. On the pyles it was apparent when I adjusted the subwoofer level. On these I can't even tell when I have it maxed vs at 0.

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The pyles were dual voice coil and I wired them as 4 ohm. The pioneer is single voice coil and I wired them as 4ohm also. I guess I thought at the least case these would be equal to the pyles but they seem like they hit much weaker and are distorting much easier. Is it possible I have something wired wrong? I also notice they are much less responsive to the adjust,mets made at the head unit level. On the pyles it was apparent when I adjusted the subwoofer level. On these I can't even tell when I have it maxed vs at 0.

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What's the svc rating on the Pioneers? 2 ohm? Are they wired series?

 
What's the svc rating on the Pioneers? 2 ohm? Are they wired series?
They say 4 ohm on the box and you'll have to excuse my ignorance. I believe they are in series I have one black and one red wired coming from the amp to one sub. Then I have one black and one red going from that sub to the next.

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They say 4 ohm on the box and you'll have to excuse my ignorance. I believe they are in series I have one black and one red wired coming from the amp to one sub. Then I have one black and one red going from that sub to the next.

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That's parallel and you're running at 2 ohm.

 
@Danknasty; Never look at max ratings. It doesn't mean anything. RMS rating is what you wanna look at. Your amp does 300w at 4 ohms or 500w @ 2 ohms but also depends on where you set your gains. Swapping subs won't really do much. Having a custom box built, on the other hand, will make a pretty big difference even on the same power.
 
That's parallel and you're running at 2 ohm.
Really? I'm following a diagram off crutch field verbatim for a mono amp with two 4 ohm subs

Ah my fault I see what you're saying the amp is putting out 2 ohm. Is this a good way to wire them or how should I do this?

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Really? I'm following a diagram off crutch field verbatim for a mono amp with two 4 ohm subs
Ah my fault I see what you're saying the amp is putting out 2 ohm. Is this a good way to wire them or how should I do this?

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As long as the amp is 2 ohm stable then you're fine. You will get more power out of it that way.

 
It doesn't sound very good is there a way to epwire it to 4 ohm?

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What vehicle do you have? What power supply does your system consist of?(Size power wire,ground wiring,# of batteries,Type of batteries,stock alternator,Big 3 done or not,and Sub box measurements,port area if any at all,location of box,and direction of subs and port if a port,? Alot of factors are considered when setting up a proper system for supply and demand all the way down to type of vehicle,to the box,and location of..A proper box for the sub/subs makes all the difference towards performing at its potential.You can make a $40 used sub sound very nice in the proper box and power needed for supply and demand as well as preping the vehicle for it.

 
Mabye this is my issue I will try wiring them to 8 ohms and see if there's a diff I had the pyles running at 4 ohm and 4 ohm out the amp and they sounded Better than these new pioneers.

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