since I did not install waht I currently have(shop did, before i knew a **** thing abotu car audio) I have a few questions.
A: Bear in mind that my answers are of my ow opinions, and many people can have different ideas on it.
1. how does the RCA's go to the amps? Are there enough outputs? Does the sub-out get split to go to both amps? Then is there another output for the 4channel amp for the doors?
A: Yes, unless you have active xovers or equalisers, RCA cables run from headunit to amps.
You can have Y splitters if you find that you don't have anymore terminals for the RCA's. IF you are running rear speakers, then you will have to somehjow think about rerouting the cables so that the fader will work. DOesn't PPI amps have RCA outputs? If it does, you can simpley daisy-chain them together.
2. Fuses/Distribution blocks/Wiring? Ok, so I currently have 4 gauge going to my amp, I think i'm going to have to upgrade to 1ga..how do I figure that out? Also, what size inline fuse would I need next to my battery? From my battery i go to the inline fuse..then to a distribution block then to my amps, correct? Does a distribution block have fuses? What gauge wire should I use to my door speakers, i'm thinking 12gauge. I heard to use 12gauge to my doors then 16 to my tweets from the crossovers. Does anyone know where to buy spools of wire that would be good for this?
A: A 4gauge would be plenty for your amp, I'd believe. The main power might be 1 gauge, just to be safe. The main inline fuse would depend on the total draw of your amps. Your manual should state maxmimum draw. Add all of them together, take out maybe about 20 amps (aps don't really draw as much as stated, I've heard) A dsitro has two types, fused and blocks. Fused would befor positive wires, and blocks would be for ground wires. The largest speakers still need no more than 16 gauge. I dont' think it matters much. Wire is wire. ANy osrt of wire that fits the bill would be fine. Get well insulated ones though, so it won't be easy to get cut by the car's chassis.
3. Do I have to setup the crossovers myself? Also can you cahnge the amount of power going to different channels on the 4 channel amp? Because the fronts could use more power and the rear a little bit less.
A: If it is passive xovers, there are some that are adjustable, but basically, all you need is to connect the wires, simple. If it is active, yes, you need to set it correctly. There are basic settings that people use and vary from there. FOr instance, Sub: 2Hz~80Hz, mid bass: 80~275Hz, and so forth. THe xovers are not responsible for sending more or less power. It simply cuts off frequencies sent to the amps. You would need to control the gain on the channels on the amp by yourself.
4. Is their anything else that I need to know about when wiring/installing this stuff that you dont normally hear about? any suggestions? Thanks
A: A host of things can go wrong in installations. The biggest problem that I had was gettin the wires through the firewall and alternator whine. Make sure the battery is not connected before starting any installation.
