new project has commenced

looks good..........thats alot of diet snapple
lol my mom got the executive gold costco membership and gets those for like 5 less now. it is freakin nuts how many costco items we have. seriously, the laundry detergent we have is enough for all of chicago, and it only cost like 2 bucks a jug lol.

 
don't worry, i have technique in the entire project. i have plenty of confidence in it. and in the rare event that the glue DOES show (never has EVER after sanding), it is just as dark as the stain i'm using. the way that i do it is, you let the glue gel over such that it is able to be squeezed lightly without popping. once there, you take a razor knife and cut it off as low as possible. never fails. no one shall know the drivers except I...

 
if your going for that natural look maybe just use some vegtable oil and leave the board in the oil over night...........leaves a nice natural finish.......ill take a pic of the cutting board thing i made and then stained it with vegitable oil.........you dont want to sand the plywood to much at all by the way.....it has a thin layer

 
well i'm going to protrusion sand with 50, low protrusion sand with 80, leveling sand with 120 and smoothing sand with 220. tis what i have seen done and turns out quite beautifully.

 
you dont need to use half of those..........just use 120-180 and then 200 grit.....its just plywood....you might need to use your method for hard wood but not plywood......turns out the same in the end

 
oh no, i didn't clarify. on the non rough sides, i will ONLY do 120 and 220. this plywood was cut quite rough though, so i'll probably add 80 grit on the rough sides. i looked at it closely and 50 grit would be unwise.

 
ok i tested mahogany on some scrap, and unless it looks different when it dries, i will need a new stain. it looks TOO dark actually, doesn't accentuate the wood at ALL.

 
ok i'm officially grounded until i get the drivers and the SNF parts in. all that i did was some preliminary sanding. i'm going to practice my roundover skills (harder than you think //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif ) on the old DD box before i try it on the delicate plywood.

 
as of right now i'd already like to give a special thanks to thylantr and ballstothewall, good helpful guys here as well as everyone else who is and ha(i)s help (ed)(ing) me

 
practice my roundover skills

When using a router many people think you have to do all the cuts in one pass.

If you have trouble, do multiple passes, two or three. Set the depth cut to just a little

bit on the first pass, lower the bit on second or final pass. The router bit is usually happier

to remove less material per pass. Depends on your equipment, you have to figure out

what it likes to get professional cuts.

 
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