New install not loud

[heyhi1 10+ year member]

Well thats pretty much the answer i needed to hear, my understanding of sq was that it just sounds clear, so basically what i learned is that i sacrificed loud for clear becuqse its very clear, now my question is can i get it retuned and take away some cuts and still have decent sound?

As far as power the xp zapco will give me 240 x2 at 4 ohms bridged will that be good for my woofers?

If i get 2 of those to replace the huge jl amp can i bridge the tweeters and give it a low gain to get around 120 rms or does it not work that way?

Im going to check the amp output with a meter, and snap pics of my doors and install to see what u guys think,

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well thats pretty much the answer i needed to hear, my understanding of sq was that it just sounds clear, so basically what i learned is that i sacrificed loud for clear becuqse its very clear, now my question is can i get it retuned and take away some cuts and still have decent sound?
As far as power the xp zapco will give me 240 x2 at 4 ohms bridged will that be good for my woofers?

If i get 2 of those to replace the huge jl amp can i bridge the tweeters and give it a low gain to get around 120 rms or does it not work that way?

Im going to check the amp output with a meter, and snap pics of my doors and install to see what u guys think,

literally you just need to gain up until you hear the speakers get slightly stressed out.

Amp output with a meter is useless because you arent playing 0 db test tones. The recording level in music completely affects the amp's power output as well. Literally you just need to train your ear to see when your amplifier is stressed. Doing heat checks on both amp and speaker works well too for maintaining the health of your setup. If your amp is ice cold after 10 mins of blaring it, you are way undergained. If its slightly warm, you are good, if its hot, might want to back it down. Active gain setting is the safest route, knowing system limits and how distortion and clipping sounds like in your mids and highs is key as well. the DMM method only gets you to a starting point, its not an ending point by anymeans.

Question... You said you have two mids per door which will be a 2 ohm load. Now when you bridge the amp, 4 ohms is the lowest safe impedance, why would you even think of bridging?.......

Thats why i told you to go with a giant 2 channel amp that does at least 400 watts per side at 2 ohms

Also no you dont want to retune, its tuned that way for a reason, unless you want your clean SQ sounding like a typical horrible audio tuned system again.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

If you wanted loud you wasted a few grand. Could have got that without the helix and a set of $60 mids

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

This was your amp on 1 set if active Hertz XL which are a level under yours.

But this was not a SQ tune.



You may want to learn how to use the helix yourself.

 

[Hertz Mafia]

It's never a dull moment here on CA.. Off one statement I made you assume what I know right?
Cutting out frequencies would not affect the output if it was tuned correctly with still keeping power curve intact for a nice loud output.

But thank you Jeff now that you are the main guy answering most if not all questions nowadays, you know everything and we are all moron's in car audio.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

It's not one statement. It's all the crap you post around here. Dumb as fvck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

As for the gain on the 450. It has a high/low level switch. 1/2 could be fine but I can’t remember.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

It's not one statement. It's all the crap you post around here. Dumb as fvck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Still mad you couldn't prove me wrong on the wire huh
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

 

[youdoofus]

He stated gain is about 1/2....which sounds wrong.

Could be right or wrong depending on the headunit preamp.
the headunit produces 2v preamp, but then again without knowing all the actual settings set for the tuning its hard to tell if the amp can put more out or if the speakers will take more without issue.

they are 2 volt. Could very likely turn the gains up a tish more

 

[youdoofus]

also, HOLY CR@P!! is this your amp? i was gonna rib ya a bit and say that you need the same model 4 chan that i have, but this one might be sufficient LOL

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

they are 2 volt. Could very likely turn the gains up a tish more

He has the helix. Do you know that works? If not you really should be talking about the gains

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

if i didnt' have 200x4 my system wouldn't be very loud. you need alot of power becasue generaly you want to cut the peaks not boost. and cutting 3db means you have to doublethe power to get it back to that level. I always recommend at least 100 for tweeters and 200 for mids if you want something loud and balanced..

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I like power also but in reality 70 watts per driver is plenty if the install is done right.

Having a little extra is nice for windows down interstate.

 

[youdoofus]

He has the helix. Do you know that works? If not you really should be talking about the gains

does the helix line drive as well?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

does the helix line drive as well?

It’s a full DSP. You adjust voltage in the software. It’s under levels

 

[youdoofus]

It’s a full DSP. You adjust voltage in the software. It’s under levels

ok, wasnt trying to give bad advice man. my bad yo. So, DMM on the rcas then and see where youre at with the volume at the max you ever turn it up to on a hot signal song ot test tone so the gain can be properly set on the amp is what im assuming is the next best step