New here and looking for any tips or advice!

Another question for the front speakers can I run the amp feed wires to the stock wiring at the head unit so I dont have to mess with fishing wire through the stupid door rubber thing or will 50 watts rms be to much for the stock I believe 18awg wire?
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it's safe for the wire yes. just make sure u have hp xover on at least 100hz to protect speakers from bass

 
Nope. That's what the RCA's are for. Then run some speaker wire, after attaching it to the existing speaker wire and wire that to the amp.
Ya sorry if I made that confusing. Ill get another deck so I can use rca inputs, but as far as the power wire that goes from the amp. Rather then taking a whole new wire and running it from the amp to the speaker itself, would it be ok for me to run the wire from the amp to the speakers stock wiring?
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Another question for the front speakers can I run the amp feed wires to the stock wiring at the head unit so I dont have to mess with fishing wire through the stupid door rubber thing or will 50 watts rms be to much for the stock I believe 18awg wire?
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Just be sure your polarity is correct and there is NO reason you cannot use them... unless you have a factory amp then you have to watch WHERE you tie in...

 
Ya sorry if I made that confusing. Ill get another deck so I can use rca inputs, but as far as the power wire that goes from the amp. Rather then taking a whole new wire and running it from the amp to the speaker itself, would it be ok for me to run the wire from the amp to the speakers stock wiring?
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Pretty much what I said earlier so yes. In fact, I did the same thing recently. I got new comps installed and all I really had to do is switch wires around and add a little bit to existing wire. It's easy. It's the routing part that's time consuming....and yes, I'm well aware of the door hinge rubber boot that your talking about. That's where I routed 1 piece of spkr wire for the amp, for each door. If you go that route, make sure you zip tie things. Last thing you want is to roll down the window and find out that it tipped your speaker wire right out and no sound. I simply zip tied it with the factory wiring...easiest thing I can pass along to another person.

 
What do you mean?
I'm trying to clarify if you're using an aftermarket H/U or a LOC... PLEASE don't tie in with an LOC then expect to pass signal thru the amp... yes it is designed to do this but the results will be FAR from ideal... even if you set gains well the volume will probably not be linear as it is a bad signal...

 
Ya no factory amp. Just out of curiosity why cant I just daisy chain rca cables off my jl amp to my new amp for signal?
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That's not how car audio works....Unless your running multiple amps, using one amp for signal is good enough....I think your confused a little.

 
I'm trying to clarify if you're using an aftermarket H/U or a LOC... PLEASE don't tie in with an LOC then expect to pass signal thru the amp... yes it is designed to do this but the results will be FAR from ideal... even if you set gains well the volume will probably not be linear as it is a bad signal...
No I have an aftermarket head unit but it only has 1 set of pre outs that are connected to my current subwoofer ampBut that amp has a preamp output that has a high/low pass adjustable filter as well as adjustable filter slope and finally an output mode which can be changed from (full range/amp filter/out filter) so couldn't I just run rca cables from there to my new amp?

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No I have an aftermarket head unit but it only has 1 set of pre outs that are connected to my current subwoofer ampBut that amp has a preamp output that has a high/low pass adjustable filter as well as adjustable filter slope and finally an output mode which can be changed from (full range/amp filter/out filter) so couldn't I just run rca cables from there to my new amp?

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if the amp has rca outs yes u can use that..

 
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