New amp/subwoofer install not hitting...

Your stuff is very low level. Not even entry at this point. So you wont get much out of it. Good news is you can only go up from here
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I was just telling my room mate, actually I would probably feel like more of an [explicit word here] if I spent a fortune on the system, because this has been a continuing fiasco and its not fixed. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blackeye.gif.66a1670f5aaf7f406e783a63e3387dc5.gif

 
revved alt?!

Once the vehicle is running, 14.4 is the number most amps put out for power. Very few people run past 14....but is possible risking it, up to 18 volts.

 
I was just telling my room mate, actually I would probably feel like more of an [explicit word here] if I spent a fortune on the system, because this has been a continuing fiasco and its not fixed. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blackeye.gif.66a1670f5aaf7f406e783a63e3387dc5.gif
If you invested in higher end equipment this probably wouldnt be an issur. I noticed you said your using a LOC. What stopped you from swapping the head unit?

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The guy basically said that when you accelerate the car, this would only generate more power, not less..

I can observe the battery power from my cars dash when accelerating, and being in a stopped position ect. and from what you're saying Boomin_tahoe these numbers look like what I'm getting as far as power is concerned. With the system I'm trying to run (like what was already mentioned by dev199505), its not like I'm trying to pull a ridiculous amount of power from the car with a "high end" system, so the issue has to reside in signal changes somewhere.

If you invested in higher end equipment this probably wouldnt be an issur. I noticed you said your using a LOC. What stopped you from swapping the head unit?
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I will say that you're probably right, if I was using something like this as my line-out conversion, I might not be having this issue.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rf-bld

I didn't replace the head unit because the head unit for this car is basically an integrated nav system with CD changer and a whole lot of other stuff as well as a Bose system...

As I've had the luxury of learning, integration with this system is not easy, unless maybe you're a professional with adequate knowledge of the Bose system.

A secondary option for me at this point, would be to purchase a device such as the one I posted here in the link, to see if this would help equalize the signal to the amp.

My last resort at this point may be to bypass the stereo system entirely. Through the use of a split iPod AUX in, one output going into the stereo, the other going to an RCA out conversion device. When I'm driving long distances, I tend to listen to my own music that I've acquired from Apple Music ect. on an iPad/iPhone. I'd probably end up doing this if the device failed to adequately fix the deformed signal.

If I was to take it back to a shop, they would probably just charge me to buy more equipment anyway, plus I may have to pay for labor, Best Buy obviously has no idea what to fully consider when it comes to these Bose systems...

 
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