Need your experience on building a system...

[Andrew_D]

Hello everybody, I enjoy this website very much. I am fairly new to car audio, but plan to slowly build a system for great sound quality. I have a 94 Honda Civic coupe with 6 total speakers. 2 tweeters in each door, 2 woofers in the door near the calves, and obviously, two in the back (6.5 Infinity Refs in the back). When I bought the car, the two woofers up front were blown. I recently bought a set of Cerwin Vega V-Mag 5252 (5.25") components and tried to install them. Turns out the tweeter and woofer wire didn't connect where I thought they would be and now I am going to have them done at Circuit City/Best Buy (Car Toys wanted $140 to install just the components!!!) However, I am slightly apprehensive about these speakers because they would need a new bracket (too deep for the factory) and thus, higher installation costs.

BUT, the reason why I made this thread is because I can return these for other components.

I was looking at the Infinity Kappa 60.5cs'. I can get them for a good price and it is confirmed that they will fit in my door (cut the back of the bracket out..) The only downside is that they handle 90w RMS versus the Cerwin's 50w RMS. From what I've read, it's better to have an amp that provides more wattage then the speakers RMS. This means that I need 90w minimum to feed these speakers.

I initially wanted to buy a 4-channel amp for the components and rear speakers and a mono amp for a single, sealed 10". I'll be purchasing the Alpine 9830 head unit soon, providing 18w rms. Would you guys suggest I buy a 2-channel (or 4-channel bridged) amp for the components by themselves, run the rears off the head unit, and a mono amp for the single 10"? I'm not sure of all the possibilities (hence where you guys come in) and would greatly appreciate any feedback.

Another thing to remember is the cost of installation. I'm sure stores will cost an arm and a leg for wiring, etc. I wish I knew what I was doing or knew somebody who did... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/pissed.gif.9f665f96bc89e98e708dabd4580bb591.gif

Everything- Max $1500

Click to read more...

 

[RikuY 10+ year member]

I would do a 4-channel amp for components and rears. A mono class D amp for sub. Return the Vegas and go to the place you are going to have the install done at. Tell a guy there you want a deck, front components, rear fills, a 4-channel amp for them, a mono amp, and a 10" sub. Then, tell them you have $1500 to work with and show me what I can afford to put in there with the final bill being $1500. Go to a couple different shops and compare the estimates when you get them all. Pick one.

If you aren't doing your own install, go to the shop and buy the stuff from there. Everything is just easier that way. Because they charge you $140 for installs WHEN you don't buy from them. It's a business, it's how they work

 

[96greencivic 10+ year member]

I'd say do the install yourself. That is what I am doing in the process. Just map it out on paper and go to it! You'll def learn a lot and probably do a better job b/c you care how it comes out. I have a 96 Civic, so it isn't that much diff then yours.

 

[96greencivic 10+ year member]

I'd say do the install yourself. That is what I am doing in the process. Just map it out on paper and go to it! You'll def learn a lot and probably do a better job b/c you care how it comes out. I have a 96 Civic, so it isn't that much diff then yours.

I'm recanting my first post. I tried it, came out crappy. Had my cousin who has a shop do it. Perfect now. This is something you should leave to the pro's. But at least I did learn more about audio though.

 

[EFFENDI 10+ year member]

The first install is always the akward one, as you keep doing more, upgrading, swapping parts, it becomes much much easier. Just take the time to familiarize yourself with your vehicle (that sounds kinda wrong) and do your research before you take the plunge....

 

[OLD_SCHOOL 10+ year member]

From what I've read, it's better to have an amp that provides more wattage then the speakers RMS. This means that I need 90w minimum to feed these speakers

I am not sure where this is coming from but i have heard this a few times now on this forum. and it's just plain wrong. i could see if your only putting 200 watts to a 1600 watt RMS sub and playing it loud it may have problems cooling it's self but your talking about a differance of about 40 watts. this makes no sense to me what do you think happens when you just simply turn down the volume same thing as sending it less wattage.

not picking on you at all

and i agree with what the others have said