Need some legit advise Battery and charging

[LiveAudio911 10+ year member]

I have read alot of threads on this topic but can not seem to find something pertaining to me, if there is already please point out to me and I will go read..

Here is the deal, I am looking to upgrade my battery and only wanting to stick to one.. Current Bat size is 10-L x 6 7/8 W x 7 3/16 and I do not mind using a bigger one even if that means changing out the mount or rigging..

I am running the GTO 1500.1 @ 4 Ohms for 1200W Rms

I am running the Infinity 475a 75wx4 Rms

Alt of 130a (Was put in new as of 4 months ago..)

I really need to know what battery would be the best for my needs,, redtop/yellow top, stinger, kinetik.

I was looking at the HC1800 seems to be just little to tall but I think i make it fit.. would this work for what i need?

Kinetik High Current Power Cells

Looking at this Yellow top:

Amazon.com: Optima Batteries 8012-021 D34 YellowTop Dual Purpose Battery: Automotive

As far as stinger, I really have not found one that even comes close to the size..

If you dont mind please give me some imput or direct me what I need... I'm tired of playing the guessing game in the Audio shops with the Sales people..

Thanks guys!

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[aeroportspwn 10+ year member]

I have read alot of threads on this topic but can not seem to find something pertaining to me, if there is already please point out to me and I will go read..
Here is the deal, I am looking to upgrade my battery and only wanting to stick to one.. Current Bat size is 10-L x 6 7/8 W x 7 3/16 and I do not mind using a bigger one even if that means changing out the mount or rigging..

I am running the GTO 1500.1 @ 4 Ohms for 1200W Rms

I am running the Infinity 475a 75wx4 Rms

Alt of 130a (Was put in new as of 4 months ago..)

I really need to know what battery would be the best for my needs,, redtop/yellow top, stinger, kinetik.

I was looking at the HC1800 seems to be just little to tall but I think i make it fit.. would this work for what i need?

Kinetik High Current Power Cells

Looking at this Yellow top:

Amazon.com: Optima Batteries 8012-021 D34 YellowTop Dual Purpose Battery: Automotive

As far as stinger, I really have not found one that even comes close to the size..

If you dont mind please give me some imput or direct me what I need... I'm tired of playing the guessing game in the Audio shops with the Sales people..

Thanks guys!

just add up all your true power rms and get a battery that is capable of handling a little over that power and you will be fine since you have a 130 amp alt.

Make sure you have the big 3 done if you haven't already that will help also. Have you thought of running the 2nd battery in the trunk?

Get a kinetik or a battery with equivalent specs. I would pass on the optima but that is just me.

A deka9A31 would be more than enough for your system and you can get them at a good price. One guy on this forum is selling some factory second dekas for like $100 + shipping. They are not quite as good as a kinetik hc2400 but are better than the hc2000.

 

[LiveAudio911 10+ year member]

OK.. Thanks, so I presume with all things being equal, even with the biggest bat i can get under the hood wich looks like the 1800 due to size constraints unless i go all out and do some extreme modding to the battery area to get it to fit.. then I presume there is no true way to get away with one batter, to get the amps i need to supply the power i need then i need the isolator and 2nd battery..

Now.. I have a few additional questions I find a lot of different answers here on..

1. 2nd battery, should it be the same exact rating as in the front as some has suggested or does it not matter?

2. The isolator, is really nothing more than a solenoid like on a riding lawn mower, you allpy power and it compleats the circit to allow the power to go through.. I presume the only difference is the amount of power it can handle in amps is this correct?

3. Which brings me to my next question.. if all things are equal, for give my noobish knowledge on this one, but some suggest that if you add up the amps the bat in front can produce and the one in the back, thats your rating.. while other seam to think that its the average between the two, if you get different sizes.. if the answer to question 1 is that you can mix-and match the bats front to back, will the car and the rest of the components see a 12+12 due to the two bats making 24 v load or will it be equal as they are the same, and the alt pushing 14, making the system 12 volt dead adn >/=14 running..

Sorry I think i already know the answer to number 3 as far as voltage but I think the guy at the audio shop is an idiot that was just tring to sell me a 300 cap crap..

4. After all the above, will a 130 Amp truley be able to recharge and supply the power to the two bats anyways? If i just thought about it. and i have no clue what i'm talking about or i would not be asking, if the alt could supply the amount of power i need to begin with why could i not just pull it direct, or is it i can only pull whats stored in teh battery and when there is a drain on the battery then and only then the alt starts kicking out power? But then again.. if I have a regular bat and I'm pushing 130 max.. should it already be able to handle it or is just a sucky stock bat?

Sorry.. for all the questions.. lots of BS.. to go though on the net.. and in the audio shops.. lots of different opinions out there..

Edit: I have already done the big 3 as well.. I have 14.4v in the trunk idle at no music, and 13.2 about half wayup, and 10.?? when cranking to my normal listening level about 80% turned up..