Need some advice

[tuckermitchell]

First of all, thanks guys. The information you've given here has helped me tremendously. Alrojoca, what you wrote is what I thought you meant, I'm just not as up to date on technical jargon as you are. I will be using the passive xovers for the front speakers and putting midwoofers in the rear deck. I think I will be looking into the JBL set just because the polyglass seemed to be over 300 bucks in most cases and that just isn't worth it to me in this setup. As for mid woofers, I have no experience with Dayton but I read so many good things between this site and DIYMA that I think that they will likely be a solid choice. I'll be shopping around for them for the next week or so until I've saved the money for the components as well. I still need to mat and soundproof my trunk a little. I had some Dynamat extreme in my garage from my tahoe install and used that to do the doors of the car but I still want to do the floor and trunk area to make it a bit more solid.

One final question, if I were to take the odd shaped rear deck out of the honda and just build one out of 1/2" MDF and finish it, do you think that would be a good idea. The speaker mounts are curved and in my particular car the back dash is pretty haggard looking and could use some freshening up anyways. You guys are pretty dope, thanks for the help.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

First of all, thanks guys. The information you've given here has helped me tremendously. Alrojoca, what you wrote is what I thought you meant, I'm just not as up to date on technical jargon as you are. I will be using the passive xovers for the front speakers and putting midwoofers in the rear deck. I think I will be looking into the JBL set just because the polyglass seemed to be over 300 bucks in most cases and that just isn't worth it to me in this setup. As for mid woofers, I have no experience with Dayton but I read so many good things between this site and DIYMA that I think that they will likely be a solid choice. I'll be shopping around for them for the next week or so until I've saved the money for the components as well. I still need to mat and soundproof my trunk a little. I had some Dynamat extreme in my garage from my tahoe install and used that to do the doors of the car but I still want to do the floor and trunk area to make it a bit more solid.
One final question, if I were to take the odd shaped rear deck out of the honda and just build one out of 1/2" MDF and finish it, do you think that would be a good idea. The speaker mounts are curved and in my particular car the back dash is pretty haggard looking and could use some freshening up anyways. You guys are pretty dope, thanks for the help.

Cool, my only concern was if the Eclipse had enough juice to run the JBL MS series @ 8 ohms and a set of Dayton's small woofers, they are good just need good power, Hopefully the Eclipse amp has under rated power and you may have to set the gains very high, hopefully it can handle the 4 volt RCA's from the JVC HU. If you went with the other JBL set I mentioned there will be less concerns about power and they can be found cheaper also. Like Zako said you cant go active with the JVC HU for the fronts since it just has a basic hi-low pass crossover, not a 2 way or 3 way like the other units Zaco mentioned, it get too complicated, the HAT components Zaco mentioned are good very efficient and very popular here on the forum. In any case, with the simple high low pass xover from the JVC you could filter the sound actively to the Dayton drivers but not the front components. I wish I knew more about box building, maybe someone else can give you advice on that.

Keep us posted and maybe post a few pics if you can.

 

[tuckermitchell]

So, new news. Had soccer tournies for the kid the last couple days so couldn't check back. Had the eclipse tested by a local guy on Friday afternoon. Turns out two channels have some issue but he thinks its repairable so I left it with him. Also, in the meantime, through word of mouth in my extended network, I was offered a Fosgate Punch 700x for $75 bucks. Cosmetically, it's a 5/10 but I listened to it in the guys car and I know it works for the most part. Snapped it up. That gives me the following numbers to run comps and midwoofers:

87.5 x 4 at 4ohms

175x4 at 2 ohms

350 x 2 at 4 ohms bridged

After some more research last night and today I've decided to go with the JBL MS-62 component set. They have gotten really great reviews and I don't think that 165 is a terrible price for something I hope I am only going to buy once. Now, all I have to do is wait two more paydays to pick up enough mat to do the trunk and under the floor of the car. Again, I'm not going to build a competition system, but I want to eliminate as much noise as I can since my mini-me/flowmaster exhaust is kinda loud and civic's aren't exactly known for their deletion of road noise. I still need to get some midbass woofers of some sort as well. I'm going to build a small vented box and a sealed box, both to spec for the sub so that I can decide which I prefer. I'm hoping the single sub can keep up with the rest of these speakers now that they will be getting nearly 100W's each. I wish I could get a solid idea of what hertz range I should be looking for in the midbass department. I'm assuming something in the neighborhood of 50-1000hz or the like no? Understand, I'm learning this stuff on the fly but I'm excited to do this right and get to installing.

Oh, also, does it really matter what RCA's I purchase. They can get so crazy expensive and I'm not necessarily sure they are worth the money or not in my daily driver case. I'll be buying everything from KnuKonceptz when I get the wiring including everything to move my battery to the trunk in the meantime.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

glad you decided to get more power for those MS fronts, thet will need it and thank you for it too. The frequency for the mids is something you need to experiment with, most drivers smaller than 8 inches may not work good under 80 hz.

The Knu Karma RCas are fairly priced for great sound. You could go with mono price RCAs , cheaper and almost as good as some Canare RcAs I made from a microphone cable and another set I made from a guitar cable, really kicked a** on a home stereo for my cd player, significantly more bass than standard cables.

The only issue with the mono price cables is that they are bulky, take a lot of space since they are thick.

Let us know and keep us updated, thanks for the recent update also.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

i would suggest posting this again later tomorrow the guys on here right now arent giving you really any useful advice and i normally see much better advice being givin.

personally i would take the premier amp bridge it like quackhead said on the boston at 8ohm. put the boston in a slightly larger than recommended box and enjoy decent bass. if you want more you can always get a better amp later.

as for the deck i actually like the jvc line though it doesnt allow active or time-alignment its still a nice unit. the deh-80prs is a great budget unit for people who like to tweek their sound.

as far as components i make be wrong but you may be limited here by mounting depth. if not so much i would look into memphis highs they are all super efficient and i havent had any problem with mine in the past. generally components allow you to move you staging around much easier by just moving the tweeters but coaxials can rival components if mounted correctly. and if just achieving a louder system is what you want components arent necessary.

back door/deck speakers are a waste to me so im not much help here but i do know many people have had great success with running a midrange in the back and turning it down so it doesnt mess up the front stage.

for amp kits i would look at Amp Installation Kits, HDMI Cables for good budget ampkits try and stay away from the cheap kca line unless money really is that tight.

i am not a vender or even a shop owner/employee but i have worked at a couple shops and i hate seeing people get screwed and taken advantage of main reason i dont work at a shop any more

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

For the record the same good advice was given on post #7 earlier. Tucker you made up your mind on the JBL ms62's, great choice you will not regret that.

Wiring a dual 4 sub to 8 ohms is not a good match when an amp does not even have power ratings for that load or maybe not even designed to work with that load. Maybe Winky can explain the technical reason for that suggestion and how the amp will deliver more power that way. I will be happy to learn a lesson from a pro.

 

[tuckermitchell]

I pulled the box out and found it was marked a single voice coil sub. Looked at the sub physically again and indeed it is. I took this on trade from someone so I went and had it tested with the amp. No problems, but it is indeed a 4 ohm SVC sub. Shouldn't be a problem then on either amp, and the beauty as far as I see it is if I want a bit more power, I can always rearrange things to put two channels from the fosgate on it instead and get the extra ~50 watts of power, though I doubt that I will do that.