Need opinions from the SQ bisches.....

2 mids and a tweet work fine in my set up, so give that a try first. Just need a tweet that will drop down to 2.5Kz or so...
can you recommend a couple tweets that fit the bill? Im actually gonna be runnig 2 sets of these active on some audison amps(sorry for the thread jack)

 
The whole reason for going 3-way with this is to be able to run a dedicated mid-bass with how I have my doors setup.
Its either that or leaving it how it is and running the front mids as the mid-range. But, the whole idea once I got into it was to have an exaggerated mid-bass and low-end.

 
any possible way to seal the slanted midranges from the rest of the door?

if so, seal them up and use those for midrange (ones furthest from you)

OR

you can keep those for midbass and add midranges in the kicks.

 
PICT0182.jpg


PICT0184.jpg


not my install, just to give you an idea of what's possible on A-pillars.

 
any possible way to seal the slanted midranges from the rest of the door?
if so, seal them up and use those for midrange (ones furthest from you)

OR

you can keep those for midbass and add midranges in the kicks.
Yes, that is the plan. Im just looking to pull those ones that are currently in, and adding them in behind the other ones. That way the set that is flat on the door will be the mid-bass. Then the slanted ones will be the mid-range and will be sealed off.

Thats what stinks though with these cars. There is absolutely NO room in the kicks or under the dash, due to the design. But I do have lots of room with the door panels since the doors are so **** big.

 
Use the hole that is more in the middle of the door for your midbass, and make an adapter to fit a 4 inch mid in the holes facing up. I assume that you have them more on axis. Put the tweeter with the 4 inch mid, best would be mounted coaxially, in a point source fashion, that will equalize the pathlengths from the tweet and the mid. If you cant mount coaxially, put it right next to the mid, test the locations for best results.

 
not my install, just to give you an idea of what's possible on A-pillars.
Thanks for the pic.

I just dont really want to get crazy with the a-pillars. I want to keep them as simple and low profile as possible.

Ive got some room there, but I would really start running into visibility issues in the drivers seat with anything crazy going on.

Glass021.jpg


Pretty much the whole limiting factor with space up front is the dash. The design of it wraps around the driver and is pretty huge. Im a big fan of it though, one of the main reasons Ive had 2 of these cars.

Once a set of legs is under there it leaves me with pretty much no kick.

 
Use the hole that is more in the middle of the door for your midbass, and make an adapter to fit a 4 inch mid in the holes facing up. I assume that you have them more on axis. Put the tweeter with the 4 inch mid, best would be mounted coaxially, in a point source fashion, that will equalize the pathlengths from the tweet and the mid. If you cant mount coaxially, put it right next to the mid, test the locations for best results.
Ive actually found a very nice balance with the tweeters in my stage so far. They do pretty nicely in the a-pillars, although I might be able to get more out of them if I play with the positioning some more.

Thats another thing I need recommendations on though is a good set of tweets for my a-pillars.

Thats the plan for the mid-range though. Im going to make a flush adapter for the driver I choose to use.

 
So Im back to my guiding question.

Should I run all 4 of my 6.5" ID OEMs as mid-bass, by glassing in another set of rings behind the back ones on the doors?

And if so, what size mid-range should I put up front?

Or

Should I run 2 of my 6.5" ID OEM's as mid-bass.

With a 4" Mid-range up front.

 
Throw a 4" and a tweeter in each 6.5" angle pod.

Sell the extra 6.5", put the money towards something

better than Dayton 4" mids.

I'd probably crossover at 500-700hz and 4500-5000hz.

 
Throw a 4" and a tweeter in each 6.5" angle pod.Sell the extra 6.5", put the money towards something

better than Dayton 4" mids.

I'd probably crossover at 500-700hz and 4500-5000hz.
Im just kinda set on using all these **** mids just because I have them. If I have to I could always turn them down?

What do you think I should do then for the mid-range?

 
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