Need info on how to tune system

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

can u set ur amp to lp only?

are you speaking of the amps powering the subs? most sub amps are lp.. and if a for chan or 2 chan, they should have the hp, full, lp switch...

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

Can I set my amp to LP only??

Well yea but that wouldn't work.

I guess I did not explain myself correctly.

The MB Quart Amp is a 4 channel

60 Amp Fuse

Rated at 100 watts x 4

I have 2 channels powering the front MB Quart Speakers (QSD 216 - quality IMO) 100 watts each

I have the other 2 channels bridged to power my JL Audio 10W3 200 watts x 1

My Head Unit has a lot of controls in it. It is the Pioneer Avic-Z2 Navigation, internal Hard Drive, built in crossover, EQ, ect...

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

ususally you can to the front and rear at different hp lp filters. people do that all the time too.

if your deck has sub pre out and front rear preouts, you just plug in coresponding channels and its a done deall. easy no problemolio..

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Wow thank you!I think I understand what I need to do for my sub woofer.

However I think I am going to need someone to build the box for me as it looks beyond my skill set.

To answer the questions asked.

No I did not take any pictures of the install.

For sound deadening _ I pulled the factory plastic off and covered the whole doors in layers of Fatt Matt. I did not use any material except for the Fat Matt to cover the open areas of the door. Not the BEST way but much better than nothing at all.

I did not use foam to seal the front of the door speaker to the panels. Does it make a real difference? I could pull the panels and add some weatherstripping if you say it really makes a difference.

Yes, that foam seal is important. OEM has perfect seals, which is how they get mid bass response. I use weatherstripping on all door speaker installs

 

[hari-bhari 10+ year member]

or you can use molding clay to get a night tight seal, that's what i did

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Non hardening modeling clay get soft in heat and will sag. You not want that on the front of a speaker basket. But it does a good job between the baffle and door metal. I still wrap it in deadener though.

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

I worked on mounting the sub better today.

Building a baffle to seal the sub to the cabin was not as hard as I thought it would be.

I built the baffle, it came out good. Not perfect but not bad.

Def sounds good. Much better than before. Not as dead as when I just had the box firing forward with no baffle and not as boomy as when I had it pointed into the corner.

I have the trunk room that I was looking for out of this build.

I think I will swap out the 10" for a 12" with a better box (not a Ebay prefab) and add my JL Audio 500/1 to power it.

Right now I just want to finish this build and enjoy it for a while.

Here is a couple of pics - not pro quality but I am real happy with it.

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

I still have to tighten up the wires on the amp

Reinstall the side covers

Add some support under the trunk mat for the amp (I have some scrap wood there for now)